Pau Ferro darkening can it be done?

so I tested the minwax stain/poly "polyshade" on the Maestro crap turd guitar ....... and it darkened it a "hair" but it will take SEVERAL applications to get the Ferro to a reasonable darkness.
 
eSGEe said:
The leather die is listed as an alcohol based product :eek: :cheers:
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Yep, leather dye is designed to penetrate below the surface rather than just coating the outside.
Probably should be applied before oil treatments for the sake of even color depth.
I believe India ink treatments work similarly: oil coatings seal the surface and likely would inhibit penetration.

In these cases one would dye first, then rub to remove any excess, then treat with oil after the board's had a chance to dry a bit.
 
eSGEe said:
I realized I had a small 1/2 pint of minwax polyshades stain/poly -- satin finish in a dark mahogany color (purchased for another project that never got off the ground ) ......
Maybe??????? that would woik?
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eSGEe said:
so I tested the minwax stain/poly "polyshade" on the Maestro crap turd guitar ....... and it darkened it a "hair" but it will take SEVERAL applications to get the Ferro to a reasonable darkness.
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Minwax is actually a poly clearcoat as well as colorant. I definitely would not apply that to a rosewood fretboard.
Unless you favor the feel of a poly finished fretboard, that is.
But it would no longer look like natural wood - even if the Minwax isn't gloss, it's likely to look like a finish.
It also might need sanding afterwards to be nice and smooth.

For darkening on a budget, I'd recommend a little boiled linseed oil (which dries fast and won't get sticky like plain linseed oil) and a squeeze or two from a cheap tube of artist's oil paint in dark or medium brown.

IMO dye markers were a good suggestion too. Many shades available, and one marker would probably do a whole fretboard.
 
eSGEe said:
anyone done it?
My Epi HEritage Cherry Burst Lester has PF --- works great sounds fine plays fine -- but looks WASHED OUT --- anyone had any sux sess in darkeing one of these non rosewood boards??

IF SO share -- share--

puff puff pASS
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It's really that petroleum oil (like bore oil) is toxic, and you really don't want it on your fingers.
There are several types of oil which will penetrate and darken the wood...without toxic residue.
Finish products which are "food grade," are probably more desirable.

woodsmithspirit.com

The 8 Best Food-Safe Wood Finishes - Woodsmith Spirit

Fractionated coconut oil has been refined to the point of removing LCT (long-chain triglycerides), a process that prevents this product from going rancid. It
woodsmithspirit.com woodsmithspirit.com
There are many food safe oils stains and finishes.
But some of them will take a while to dry.

Oil will definitely darken the rosewood but it doesn't need to be petroleum.
 
eclecticsynergy said:
Minwax is actually a poly clearcoat as well as colorant. I definitely would not apply that to a rosewood fretboard.
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:iagree:


eclecticsynergy said:
For darkening on a budget, I'd recommend a little boiled linseed oil (which dries fast and won't get sticky like plain linseed oil) and a squeeze or two from a cheap tube of artist's oil paint in dark or medium brown.
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I like this idea too!
 
JohnnyGoo said:
Well reasonably there Blink. Got a new window air conditioner and some window fans.had 94 here. You prolly hotter.You by Vantage or Moses Lake Blink ?
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Closer to Moses than Vantage, but only by a little. Couple miles North of I-90 where there's the big bass pond near the rest area between Dodson Road and Adam's Road. You might know the place, you been through here before, I'm sure. We had 98°F yesterday
 
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