On the hunt

Dewesq55

Well-Known Member
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So this Celebrity by Ovation ac/el is up for auction at a local auction house. The GF said if I can get it for a decent price (read cheap) she will give it to me for my b-day in a month. There are other pics on the site and it looks to be clean and in good condition. The hard case is included. Thoughts?
fi50.jpg
 
Do you know what year? Celebrity's are kinda like Squire to Fender and Epiphone to Gibson. Lesser priced. Not sure I'd want to bid more than 150 or so since you can buy brand new for 300/350 to 500 from Sweetwater.
 
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I would not waste my time with the auction. They can be found for $ 200 on clearance in GC.

Celebrity is the import, which does not make it bad BUT:

- they are not great acoustically. This is more of a plug-in performance guitar
- they perpetually slide if you try to sit with them due to the curved back
- They have 3 different body depths - you need to know which is right for you.
 
BUT, if I can get it for $100, then it's still a deal, right? Plus, which I didn't mention, I have wanted an Ovation for 40 years or more.
If you enjoy playing the instrument, and it is free from defects (which I am sure you can judge), then yes, it is a SUPER deal for $ 100 with a case. It would be an OK deal for the case alone!
 
I need to apologize. Celebrity is an Ovation model like an SG or Strat. The Applause brand name by Ovation is what I was thinking of. Definitely play it first before you bid.... if they'll let you.
 
You have to play it. No one can give you meaningful advice on the subject of
the tone of an acoustic. You must determine that for yourself by playing it.

An acoustic's tone is everything. If the sound isn't what
you want, there isn't much you can do about it, except buy a Fishman aura pedal
and download the Gibson J-45 tone from their library. But the pedal costs much more
than $100.

Things to look for when you inspect your hundred dollar wonder:
1. Straightness of the neck... everybody does that
2. Truss rod function: take off the cover and look at the truss rod end... make sure it actually works
and hasn't been snapped off or stripped. So you'll need to find out what size wrench you need for that
model and year class.
3. Proud frets: run your scales up and down the neck to make sure none of the frets are protruding.
Look carefully at the fret ends, to make sure none are protruding.
5. Cracks in the top: Look carefully... these happen from dryness in Northern Winters and excess heat
in Southern summers. Then look at how level the top is: watching for bulges from string tension.
6. Bridge: Look carefully at the bridge saddle, make sure it isn't chipped or worn lower than 3mm.
Look carefully at the bridge pin holes, and see if they are all chewed up or if the strings have worn a
deep groove between the hole and the saddle. (All acoustics wear grooves here, so you're looking for
excessive depth and wear). inspect the wood of the bridge itself, looking for cracks. Inspect the rear
of the bridge to see it it's pulling up from the guitar top.
7. End pin: check to see what it is. On an acoustic-electric, it should have a usable jack to plug in.
On an acoustic, it should be strong and in good condition.
8. Action: Check to see how high the action is at the 12th fret. If it's high, it can be adjusted by
filing down the bridge saddle and/or turning the truss rod.
9. Intonation: listen to it. If it's off, that's a deal breaker.
10. Nut: look carefully at it, make sure the slots are correct for the strings you intend to use. The nut
is crucial to good tone and intonation. If the slots are too deep, the strings will buzz, if they are too
shallow, the intonation will be thrown off by finger pressure.
11. Tuners: If I can't tune a guitar, I don't buy it. Check for firm response, solid mounting, no wiggling posts,
no slipping.
 
so I came late to the party. You can still look it over like I described, and
then you'll know what you might need to do to it. Whenever i buy a used guitar
I look at it like it's my job to figure out why the seller was willing to part with it
and then to put that right.
>Since you own it, I'd recommend taking it to the best luthier you can find or afford
and getting it professionally set up. The price of the setup should include all of what
I mentioned above, plus adjustments. If the nut or the frets or the bridge need work,
then you should expect to pay for the repair, but it's very likely to be worth it after
it's done.
>Fret leveling, new nut, new bridge saddle, inspection of electronics inside (if any)
are all very worth getting done by a qualified pro.
>Another thing i didn't mention is the bridge plate. That's inside the guitar, a hardwood
piece that the string ends rest against, with holes for the bridge pins. This part gets chewed up also,
especially on hard working instruments. Repair is expensive, but very worth it if you love the
instrument's tone.
>Congratulations on your NGD!
 
IMG_5602.JPG They are selling for a very price. I had one ages ago, I was thrilled with it. They were costly then.
I bought one a few weeks ago, I know it was around $200 bucks and a very nice guitar. There were several for sale in that range.
 
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