Old Marshall Valvestates:

Yep...that's how I got a 34 inch pedalboard....then, you have to fill in the blank spaces with more FX.

Here’s the latest layout of my pedal board. It comes in at 43 ninches. It’s two inches longer than my Stratocaster guitar case. It has two power supplies.

I need to figure out a way to rearrange things to fit my TC Electronic Tube Pilot onto it.

1639229141516.jpeg
 
Here’s the latest layout of my pedal board. It comes in at 43 ninches. It’s two inches longer than my Stratocaster guitar case. It has two power supplies.

I need to figure out a way to rearrange things to fit my TC Electronic Tube Pilot onto it.

View attachment 76752

Wow...

I gotta be honest....

I hate pedals and the sheer size of the board required to run them.

On the other hand, they are useful, and even required in some cases
 
Here’s the latest layout of my pedal board. It comes in at 43 ninches. It’s two inches longer than my Stratocaster guitar case. It has two power supplies.

I need to figure out a way to rearrange things to fit my TC Electronic Tube Pilot onto it.

View attachment 76752

Tell me about your Hum Debugger....how is that working for you???
 
Tell me about your Hum Debugger....how is that working for you???

The Hum Debugger is pretty ingenious and works very well…with a caveat.

First, you need to understand what it is intended to do. Next, you need to understand how it does it. This will explain the caveat.

First, the Hum Debugger is designed to notch out interfering frequencies that your pickups may receive. It is essentially a notch filter. Its benefit is most apparent with single coils, but it does work for humbuckers, too.

The pedal is based on the (credible) assumption that whatever interference your pickup receives through the air is going to be the same frequency as, or a harmonic of, the AC power in the venue.

This brings us to the second point. The pedal works by using the frequency of the AC power in the venue as a reference frequency (nominally 60 Hz in the US). The pedal then notches out this reference frequency from any audio signal passing through the pedal. I believe it also notches out a few harmonics of the reference frequency.

Because of this, the pedal MUST use its own power supply, which is a 7.5 volt AC (not DC) power supply. The pedal gets its reference frequency via the power supply.

This sounds complicated, but the pedal works very well. I can play my Strat and be as quiet, or more quiet, than any of my humbucker guitars.

So, what is the caveat?

Because of how it works, the pedal is essentially creating a comb filter at the reference frequency and its harmonics. When playing clean, it is not noticeable, at all. I have A/B’d it quite a bit, and when playing clean it is very transparent to the tone.

However, as you start to get more distorted, you can begin to notice the comb filtering effect. It is not really noticeable when mildly or moderately overdriven. But, if you listen carefully, you can hear it as you get more distorted - more so on chords than single-note passages. Even then, it’s not like it jumps out at you, but you can hear it on really distorted passages if you listen closely enough.

For me and my usual style of play, this caveat isn’t an issue. For live use, I think it’s a great tool.
 
Here’s the latest layout of my pedal board. It comes in at 43 ninches. It’s two inches longer than my Stratocaster guitar case. It has two power supplies.

I need to figure out a way to rearrange things to fit my TC Electronic Tube Pilot onto it.

View attachment 76752
Smitty, I ran across these from Rockboard when putting my latest board together. You can get pedals really close together with these.

C3C3A0A7-275C-4E9E-A343-B3AC4E0434D1.jpeg
 
Smitty, I ran across these from Rockboard when putting my latest board together. You can get pedals really close together with these.

View attachment 76769
Just be careful with these, even the offsetting types, as they have a tendency of basically killing your pedals due to stress on the jack inputs. This particular model, supposedly lowers the stress load by a weird offset angle and to be honest, i havent heard anything negative on them but they are still relatively new.
 
Just be careful with these, even the offsetting types, as they have a tendency of basically killing your pedals due to stress on the jack inputs. This particular model, supposedly lowers the stress load by a weird offset angle and to be honest, i havent heard anything negative on them but they are still relatively new.

I really like that video. Great information.
 
Just be careful with these, even the offsetting types, as they have a tendency of basically killing your pedals due to stress on the jack inputs. This particular model, supposedly lowers the stress load by a weird offset angle and to be honest, i havent heard anything negative on them but they are still relatively new.
Seems a little dramatic ! All of the jacks in my pedals are bolted to the metal case. I guess if you are really stomping on the box you could tweak something. In my use case, it’s a non-issue. Wish he could have shown some damaged examples, just saying
 
Seems a little dramatic ! All of the jacks in my pedals are bolted to the metal case. I guess if you are really stomping on the box you could tweak something. In my use case, it’s a non-issue. Wish he could have shown some damaged examples, just saying
Some say they arent as damaging towards pedals of the same brand and series: i.e like going from one BOSS to another, due to exact placement of the jack inputs from the bottom and the pedal resting firmly on the floor/board. But i guess the common issue stems from different brands where the placement isnt the same, they sort of pitch either up or down and when you continue to press down on the pedal with your foot, in time it can pull the jacks apart and off the circuit boards.

In this video however, he shows 3 TC electronic pedals and even though the inputs are the same exact specs as far as placement from bottom to center, it does still appears to cause them to pitch upward

I know lots of people still use them regardless, so its a case of "Your miles may vary" i guess
 
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Seems a little dramatic ! All of the jacks in my pedals are bolted to the metal case. I guess if you are really stomping on the box you could tweak something. In my use case, it’s a non-issue. Wish he could have shown some damaged examples, just saying
I’ll offer to tell you from experience, but expect you to choose to learn from your own…it’s not just the pedals that fail with a hard connection between them…it’s the little joining jack thingies(sorry to get technical there).
In a perfect universe, you might apply careful pressure, with the intent of engaging an additional circuit into your signal path using your foot. In reality the pressure placed on a pedal connected in the above manner can cause some unforeseen torsion on the connective device…leading to intermittent failure of connection…possibly found in multiple locations. Best of luck!
:cheers:
 
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