OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
'winkie' lmao ... it censored the anatomical term ...
NPBD: RockBoard Tres 3.1
- Thread starter Dave Sloven
- Start date
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
No, P E N I S
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
I got the call today that my three six metre flat cables came in, so I drove down to my local music store Southern Music and got those together with an MXR Super Badass Variac Fuzz pedal and some spare 'rivets' for the Tray accessories under the Rockboard.
So when I got home I put the fuzz on the board where the phaser was and mocked up what will be my cable snake would be (using a 3ft version of the 15ft Hosa TRS cable that I have coming) and also tested out the 3ft Hosa angled to straight cables to see if they will work to connect my EV-30 and FS-7 to the MS-3 once I get some angled to angled ones ... that will cost me a bit of money, especially the $25 shipping via DHL so that I don't have to wait three weeks for COVID-era Australia Post, but worth it to get the board together. I have two other packages on the way, both from Loopi Pedals, it is taking absolutely forever via Australia Post and Loopi haven't sent me tracking numbers yet. One contains the tuner/mute pedal and the other contains three TRS cables, one 1ft TRS and two 2ft TRS cables, but I think the 2ft will be too bulky to be useful for these pedals, while the 1ft should be good to connect the CTL OUT jack to the first TRS jack on the back of the patchbay to control the amp footswitch. As it stands I have most of the bulky stuff under the right side of the board (from my perspective) - such as the power supply, buffer, and daisy chain - but the most cables under the left side, where the MS-3, patchbay, and most of the signal path stuff resides. Although I don't really need it the second Tray under the left side will tidy things up and provide a mounting surface if I need to add a hum eliminator.
Here are photos.
Of course the board is now evolving mainly under the surface, but this seems to be top layout that is solidifying. Of course as Mr Grumpy pointed out weeks ago it is all very different when you add cables, and this is the layout that I ended up with when everything under the board was considered.
So when I got home I put the fuzz on the board where the phaser was and mocked up what will be my cable snake would be (using a 3ft version of the 15ft Hosa TRS cable that I have coming) and also tested out the 3ft Hosa angled to straight cables to see if they will work to connect my EV-30 and FS-7 to the MS-3 once I get some angled to angled ones ... that will cost me a bit of money, especially the $25 shipping via DHL so that I don't have to wait three weeks for COVID-era Australia Post, but worth it to get the board together. I have two other packages on the way, both from Loopi Pedals, it is taking absolutely forever via Australia Post and Loopi haven't sent me tracking numbers yet. One contains the tuner/mute pedal and the other contains three TRS cables, one 1ft TRS and two 2ft TRS cables, but I think the 2ft will be too bulky to be useful for these pedals, while the 1ft should be good to connect the CTL OUT jack to the first TRS jack on the back of the patchbay to control the amp footswitch. As it stands I have most of the bulky stuff under the right side of the board (from my perspective) - such as the power supply, buffer, and daisy chain - but the most cables under the left side, where the MS-3, patchbay, and most of the signal path stuff resides. Although I don't really need it the second Tray under the left side will tidy things up and provide a mounting surface if I need to add a hum eliminator.
Here are photos.
Of course the board is now evolving mainly under the surface, but this seems to be top layout that is solidifying. Of course as Mr Grumpy pointed out weeks ago it is all very different when you add cables, and this is the layout that I ended up with when everything under the board was considered.
Last edited:
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Well after starting with the wiring yesterday I made massive progress today and have pretty much finished it besides fitting one TRS cable for the footswitch connection, installing the tuner/mute pedal, fitting one 15ft TRS cable for the cable snake, and the installation of the second Tray (obviously this is waiting for the TRS cable under the board to be done). Here are some more photos. I think you will agree that it is a neat job.
Start of the day:
Pretty much ready to install the Tray with T-Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon here:
I colour-coded the amp, send, and return cables. The first TRS jack will have the CTL OUT from the MS-3, which will handle channel switching.
With the Tray and power supply fitted (note the RockBoard "rivets"):
Fitting the cables under the left side of the board. Note the coloured zip ties on the patch cabke
This is close to what it will look like with the second Tray fitted:
This is as close as I can get until the packages from Loopi get here. I was going to order in some 3ft angled to angled Hosa TRS cables but then I worked out how I could use an angled to straight and a TRS -> 2xTS cable I've got.
Start of the day:
Pretty much ready to install the Tray with T-Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon here:
I colour-coded the amp, send, and return cables. The first TRS jack will have the CTL OUT from the MS-3, which will handle channel switching.
With the Tray and power supply fitted (note the RockBoard "rivets"):
Fitting the cables under the left side of the board. Note the coloured zip ties on the patch cabke
This is close to what it will look like with the second Tray fitted:
This is as close as I can get until the packages from Loopi get here. I was going to order in some 3ft angled to angled Hosa TRS cables but then I worked out how I could use an angled to straight and a TRS -> 2xTS cable I've got.
Last edited:
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Almost finished, except for that stuff from Loopi Pedals that I have been waiting a month for now.
Rather than wait for the TRS cable I found a long one with angled cable on each end and fitted a new straight TRS connector that I bought from RS Components, together with a 5m expandable braid tube for a cable snake.
Here are some photos of the finishing touches to the underside of the board and the cable snake, which is constructed from a 5m power cable with new ends, a 15ft Hosa straight to angled TRS cable, three 6m flat Rockboard instrument cables, the expandable tubing and some shrink tubing. Took a fair bit of trial and error but I think I have it looking pretty good, and I've connected one of my 7-pin DIN to TRS adapter cables for the footswitch to the TRS.
Rather than wait for the TRS cable I found a long one with angled cable on each end and fitted a new straight TRS connector that I bought from RS Components, together with a 5m expandable braid tube for a cable snake.
Here are some photos of the finishing touches to the underside of the board and the cable snake, which is constructed from a 5m power cable with new ends, a 15ft Hosa straight to angled TRS cable, three 6m flat Rockboard instrument cables, the expandable tubing and some shrink tubing. Took a fair bit of trial and error but I think I have it looking pretty good, and I've connected one of my 7-pin DIN to TRS adapter cables for the footswitch to the TRS.
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
I was thinking, damn, I made this board so neat, what about those switches underneath that are hidden? I really don't want to have to take those trays off and damage those plastic "rivets" to change or even just check switch settings.
Then I realised, I could lift up the relevant pedals and get to them.
The mono/stereo switch on the back of the patchbay can be accessed by lifting up the Boss TU-3S tuner.
The voltage switches on my T-Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon can be accessed by lifting up the ... hey, that phukkin pedal still hasn't arrived yet, four weeks later
Then I realised, I could lift up the relevant pedals and get to them.
The mono/stereo switch on the back of the patchbay can be accessed by lifting up the Boss TU-3S tuner.
The voltage switches on my T-Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon can be accessed by lifting up the ... hey, that phukkin pedal still hasn't arrived yet, four weeks later
SkyMonkey
Well-Known Member
Nice thread @Dave Sloven.
I got the new Tres 3.2 (w/ soft case) as soon as it available to buy in Europe (Thomann).
My first pedalboard.
It is now set up in its 5th configuration(!) and is just awaiting me to afford a Boss RC-3 to complete the set (FS-7 already installed in anticipation).
I decided to go for the MOD 1 Patchbay to enable 5CM (stereo).
The power is still coming from a daisy chained 1700mA RockBoard Power Ace (no hum so far), but I hope to step up to a Truetone 1 Spot Pro CS6 sometime.
I have the guitar signal into a Boss LS-2 first to route two different signal chains.
Green (A) is: LS-2 > Spark > OD-20 (w/AMP CTRL) > VS65R Pre > FX Send > LS-2.
Red (B) is: LS-2 > Boss MT-2 > Boss NS-2 > LS-2.
LS-2 out then goes to a Zoom MS-70CDR.
Stereo outs from the Zoom go back to the MOD 1 > FX Returns, with the Left via a Little Black Amp Box first as MV for the non-MV VS65R.
The final AMP CTRL cable (from OD-20) is run out of the right hand LED Light cut-out (where you installed USB).
In the future I may try running AMP CTL into a shortened TR to XLR patch, to utilise the MOD 1 XLR socket (tidier).
Here are some pics.
I got the new Tres 3.2 (w/ soft case) as soon as it available to buy in Europe (Thomann).
My first pedalboard.
It is now set up in its 5th configuration(!) and is just awaiting me to afford a Boss RC-3 to complete the set (FS-7 already installed in anticipation).
I decided to go for the MOD 1 Patchbay to enable 5CM (stereo).
The power is still coming from a daisy chained 1700mA RockBoard Power Ace (no hum so far), but I hope to step up to a Truetone 1 Spot Pro CS6 sometime.
I have the guitar signal into a Boss LS-2 first to route two different signal chains.
Green (A) is: LS-2 > Spark > OD-20 (w/AMP CTRL) > VS65R Pre > FX Send > LS-2.
Red (B) is: LS-2 > Boss MT-2 > Boss NS-2 > LS-2.
LS-2 out then goes to a Zoom MS-70CDR.
Stereo outs from the Zoom go back to the MOD 1 > FX Returns, with the Left via a Little Black Amp Box first as MV for the non-MV VS65R.
The final AMP CTRL cable (from OD-20) is run out of the right hand LED Light cut-out (where you installed USB).
In the future I may try running AMP CTL into a shortened TR to XLR patch, to utilise the MOD 1 XLR socket (tidier).
Here are some pics.
Last edited:
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Very nice. This is a bit of a different design from the 3.1. Looks like you can only mount the Tray in the centre position, which is behind the module? I'm not sure that's very helpful for mounting a power supply, because the module takes up room. You could mount a power supply either side, but you would need to velcro it to the board instead of using the Tray. It is definitely longer though, which will allow you to mount more pedals on the top. What are you using to switch channels on the amp? I have the MS-3; I think it is similar to the GT-100 in many ways
SkyMonkey
Well-Known Member
The TRES 3.2 is 3" wider than the TRES 3.1.
The VS65R is only a 2 channel amp with no reverb switching, so I use the AMP CTRL feature on the Boss OD-20, connected to the VS65R.
You can save 4 presets (plus manual mode) with either channel as an option and add a switchable OD to each preset.
I have looked into getting the newer OD-200 which is smaller.
But it has no AMP CTRL, so would end up taking more space with the need for a separate footswitch!
As you can see, I have the GT-100 in MIDI 5CM with my DSL40CR.
Two separate rigs for jamming along with a mate.
And, depending on my whim, I can run either the Pedalboard/VS65R or the GT-100/DSL40CR in stereo.
For the tray, I would either leave the tabbed end overhanging the center section, or have to trim and Dremel it to cover one of the side positions.
The CS6 definitely wouldn't fit in the center position with the MOD 1 there.
Velcro is the cheaper option, but a tray would allow more room for flexibility with cable routing.
Also am I right in spotting you using Pedal Playground for pedal board designing?
If not look it up.
They have the TRES 3.1 but not the 3.2, so I had to overlap two 3.1s.
www.pedalplayground.com
The VS65R is only a 2 channel amp with no reverb switching, so I use the AMP CTRL feature on the Boss OD-20, connected to the VS65R.
You can save 4 presets (plus manual mode) with either channel as an option and add a switchable OD to each preset.
I have looked into getting the newer OD-200 which is smaller.
But it has no AMP CTRL, so would end up taking more space with the need for a separate footswitch!
As you can see, I have the GT-100 in MIDI 5CM with my DSL40CR.
Two separate rigs for jamming along with a mate.
And, depending on my whim, I can run either the Pedalboard/VS65R or the GT-100/DSL40CR in stereo.
For the tray, I would either leave the tabbed end overhanging the center section, or have to trim and Dremel it to cover one of the side positions.
The CS6 definitely wouldn't fit in the center position with the MOD 1 there.
Velcro is the cheaper option, but a tray would allow more room for flexibility with cable routing.
Also am I right in spotting you using Pedal Playground for pedal board designing?
If not look it up.
They have the TRES 3.1 but not the 3.2, so I had to overlap two 3.1s.
Pedal Playground
PedalPlayground.com is an interactive planning tool for planning your guitar effects pedalboard.
www.pedalplayground.com
Last edited:
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
yes i did use pedal playground. i did contemplate the 3.2, and i looked up the dimensions to add it as a custom pedalboard. i think i worked out that i could do my current set up plus a rv-500, but decided against it. i don’t use reverb that much
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
If you fit the tray to one of the side sections take it to an engineering workshop. they might do it cheap. i paid for the iec socket cut out and the neutrik socket cut out with bottles of Heineken!
SkyMonkey
Well-Known Member
I think with the number of pre-drilled holes in line with the locating slot, an overhanging solution may be achievable without any mods.
Can you tell me how the attachment of the tray works? I see circular retainers in your photos, but cannot see the mechanism.
I still have to afford a Boss RC-3 and the CS6 before any of this can become reality though!
Can you tell me how the attachment of the tray works? I see circular retainers in your photos, but cannot see the mechanism.
I still have to afford a Boss RC-3 and the CS6 before any of this can become reality though!
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
WELL, this pedalboard build will finally be finished this Thursday. After waiting six weeks for the tuner mute pedal to arrive from Loopi Pedals in Queensland, I gave up and asked Paypal for my money back, given that they had given me no other option when they failed to provide a postal tracking number. So I contacted a local friend who builds pedals and he made one in a few hours this afternoon, for parts cost plus $2 rounding up. I said don't bother painting it, just give the housing a bit of a polish or something. So I will get that from him on Thursday and fit it, thereby finishing the pedalboard. I wish I had contacted him six weeks ago rather than enduring this drama!
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Those are the ‘rivets’ ... basically there is a hole in the board, the tray sits on top, you put the bottom part in, then push the other piece in a bit like a scrivet in a car interior
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
this shows the tray