NGD Epiphone Les Paul Special I

Now that is what I call tearing into a guitar! It's looking great too! Now I have to see what I can do...

My $79 LP Special I and my $99 SG Special I are waiting for me at home, but I won't be there until Thursday or Friday...Damn Job!
 
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Just how much money should you or have you put into a $100 guitar?

I have about $400 in parts in an Agile I paid $100 for...
 
Sp8ctre said:
Just how much money should you or have you put into a $100 guitar?

I have about $400 in parts in an Agile I paid $100 for...
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I never think about in those terms. If I get the guitar cheap, which I consider to be a hull, it makes the overall cost of the guiatr cheaper.

That said, I have put $ 300 into a $120 guitar twice. The $300 was the actual cost of parts sourced out used, which would have been more if I had bought retail. In each case it was worth it. Also, I can always pull most of those parts out and toss the $100 hull if I want, but I have never wanted to.
 
RVA said:
I never think about in those terms. If I get the guitar cheap, which I consider to be a hull, it makes the overall cost of the guiatr cheaper.

That said, I have put $ 300 into a $120 guitar twice. The $300 was the actual cost of parts sourced out used, which would have been more if I had bought retail. In each case it was worth it. Also, I can always pull most of those parts out and toss the $100 hull if I want, but I have never wanted to.
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If I get a good sounding good playing guitar out of the deal I never worry about parts cost at all...

...but it becomes hard to get any return if you try and sell the guitar. That's why I think I'll start keeping some original parts to put back.
 
Sp8ctre said:
If I get a good sounding good playing guitar out of the deal I never worry about parts cost at all...

...but it becomes hard to get any return if you try and sell the guitar. That's why I think I'll start keeping some original parts to put back.
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Agreed. Even though I am more than willing to offer my substantial labor on these guitars for free (fret job, tuner hole ream to 10mm, rewire, new nut at correct height with proper slotting), people still would not buy a $400 Epi Special I. Let's call it "Pride and Prejudice"
 
Take dozens, move it around to find the best light, find the best angle to make that grain come out. Out of the lot there should be one or two, that are forum worthy.
 
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Shiny Happy Level Frets in your hands,
Shiny Happy Level Frets in your hands,
Shiny Happy Level Frets playing.......
 
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RVA said:
Agreed. Even though I am more than willing to offer my substantial labor on these guitars for free (fret job, tuner hole ream to 10mm, rewire, new nut at correct height with proper slotting), people still would not buy a $400 Epi Special I. Let's call it "Pride and Prejudice"
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I've yet to attempt a fret level. Should I use one of these low cost guitars as a Guinea pig?

What tools do I need for that?
 
Sp8ctre said:
I've yet to attempt a fret level. Should I use one of these low cost guitars as a Guinea pig?

What tools do I need for that?
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You need the proper radius block or long steel beam, painters tape or a fret guard, 180 to 320 grit adhesive paper and a file for crowning. You could also get a fret end file, but a dedicated one is not necessary initially IMHO.

Lots of good suggestions in this thread.

http://www.thetonerooms.com/threads/tools-of-the-trade.331/#post-4091
 
Yes cheap guitar guinea pigs for the win!!
I use a flat block and follow the radius as I sand back and forth I move the block towards the treble side and bass sides.
the radius block is good too but you need one for each radius.

This is the main source I used to get going. make sure your pickups are taped over if you dont remove the neck.
You dont want meat filings get all sucked in by the magnets.

http://www.tdpri.com/threads/fret-leveling-yer-tele-101.201556/


EDIT: METAL filings not MEAT.
sry I'm soooo hungry.
 
As you may be able to see in the prior photos, when I removed the nut I took some wood with it. I tried the sawdust + glue trick and it worked well, I think.

20161216_075153_zpsmex6u07j.jpg


20161216_075146_zps5oszoq08.jpg
 
Yep that type of filler is universal and as old as glue and woodworking itself.
i cannot even count how many times I have used that method on a myriad of different scenarios.

YOU RVA are making me all kinds of horny for fret leveling. Since I finally got my tele neck right and finally feel I been to the rodeo enough times that I know what I'm doing. I want to do them ALL, or at least give them the light sand over sharpie colored frets to see what needs doing.

I think the hardest thing I find now is that during crowning it is often hard to see the fret clearly, moving my head side to side to view it from different angle / how the worklight clamped to the floor joists appove me illuminates them.
You know, to get those flat edges to work in to one thin line.
 
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jtcnj said:
... sharpie colored frets to see what needs doing.

I think the hardest thing I find now is that during crowning it is often hard to see the fret clearly, ...
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Have you tried a red sharpie ? The black makes it hard to see if it is a reflexion or shadow you are looking at.
 
On the initial fret level pass, just a smal light few passes either takes off or leaves some sharpie. That I can see.
I havent tried coloring frets when getting the crown close, perhaps I will.
thanks B.
 
jtcnj said:
On the initial fret level pass, just a smal light few passes either takes off or leaves some sharpie. That I can see.
I havent tried coloring frets when getting the crown close, perhaps I will.
thanks B.
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Yeah, I meant for the crowning bit.
 
She is all wired up and ready to go. I was not able to test the Wilkinson Bridge. Although I tried, the threads for the bass side allen screw were stripped, so I am returning it.

I have named this guitar "Doc". She is playing very (very) nice! She does not look half bad either (sorry BGood, no sunny shots. It is snowing here)









 
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