New Nut Day

[smitty_p]

It's been a goal of mine for quite awhile to replace the cheap, plastic nut on my Washburn HB-30. Not only did it look cheap, it had the feel of the type of plastic you'd find in a plastic model airplane kit.

My plan is to eventually put some sort of vibrato on that guitar. Consequently, I've been looking at using something like the Graphtech Tusq XL nut, to help with return to pitch stability. That's really the main reason I've been wanting to replace the nut in the first place. It's somewhat of a pre-emptive move. Getting rid of a cheap-looking nut is a bonus.

Now, the tricky part is that there is no listing on Graphtech's website for anything for a Washburn. However, a Tusq nut for an Epiphone works quite well. The part number I ended up with is PQL-6061-00. This nut matched the thickness and string spacing perfectly. However, I did have to sand a fair amount off the bottom and just a touch off the ends.

I lucked out with this. I was a bit nervous about getting the height were it needed to be. But, I got it right where I needed it. The strings are high enough that I get no buzzing on the first few frets, yet I'm able to finger chords without pulling the notes sharp.

So, a few pics...

Here is the original nut. I don't know what purpose the hollow openings serve in the bottom of the nut, if any.




Here's the new nut in place and strung up. You'll notice the wound G string!



And finally, the rear showing the Tusq XL logo. I may still sand some off the top of the nut, so the slots aren't so deep. I only really want the slots to come about halfway up the wound strings, and just to the top of the plain strings.

 

[eSGEe]

Well done-- even for a CAPS fan !!! BUWAHAHAHAHHAHA -- (Sorry just totally being a douche)

NIce nuts man

 

[kevinpaul]

That is a great nut! I am glad you are happy with it. I never put on but I removed a few.

 

[eSGEe]

uhm

 

[Don O]

Looks like there’s some graphite in there, job well done !

 

[kevinpaul]

uhm

MMMMMmmmmmnnnnnjjj. OooooO

 

[RVA]

Nice job.

You have changed your approach. You once outlined an interesting philosophy of preserving the integrety of the machine-finished bottom and removing material from the top, while reslotting as necessary. What made you sand the bottom on this occasion?

 

[JohnnyGoo]

Nice work Smitty. Ya the Tusq XL nuts for the Epiphones are wider than the Gibson ones. I got the Tusq XL nuts on both my SG JRs

 

[kevinpaul]

Clean install brother!

 

[syscokid]

Uhm… nice nut job?

I sure had a nice build-up of anxiety as to whether to start reading this thread based on the title.

There are a lot of bad nut jobs in this world. It's definitrely nice to see a good nut job.

t's been a goal of mine for quite awhile to replace the cheap, plastic nut on my Washburn HB-30.

Do those have a steep headstock angle?

 

[RVA]

Do those have a steep headstock angle?

Looks like it

 

[smitty_p]

Nice job.

You have changed your approach. You once outlined an interesting philosophy of preserving the integrety of the machine-finished bottom and removing material from the top, while reslotting as necessary. What made you sand the bottom on this occasion?

You're right. And I probably still prefer that approach. However, Graphtech does such a nice job of slotting and profiling the nut, I decided to try a pre-slotted nut. But, sanding the bottom can be tricky. To get a sense of how much to remove, I compared the new nut to the old nut.

I began by removing most of the material with a belt sander with a fine sandpaper belt. Then , I used spray adhesive to glue sandpaper to a thick piece of aluminum plate I had, and laid a thick piece of straight brass on the sandpaper. This served as a straightedge and helped ensure I'd keep a nice square surface. I then kept sanding the bottom of the nut, while keeping it pressed against the straightedge. This ensured things stayed squared up. I started with coarse sandpaper and got finer as I got close to the finish.

Using a belt sander, even just to get the nut to the point of hand sanding, can be really risky and it's easy to ruin a nut that way. So, you have to take small portions at a time. Like I said, I probably still prefer my other method. This approach ended up being just as tedious because I still had to keep checking the nut for square, putting the nut in place and tuning to pitch to see how well it played without buzzes.

 

[smitty_p]

Do those have a steep headstock angle?

The headstock angle is a little shallower angle than Gibson.

 

[syscokid]

The headstock angle is a little shallower angle than Gibson.

I ask because I've been experiencing tuning stability issues with one of my Gibsons that has a vibrato system. The vibrato system is like a Strat's vibrato. The guitar has a bone nut with the typical Gibson headstock angle. There are no locking tuners, so I use the Poor Man's String-Locking technique. I had the vibrato setup with just a credit card thickness of float. But, even if I don't touch the vibrola bar, some of the strings are pinging at the nut when I bend them. As far as I can tell, the nut slots seem to be properly cut. The steep headstock angle is putting a lot of string pressure at the nut.

I got frustrated with the guitar's tuning issues, that I ended up decking the bridge plate to the body. I keep the arm removed from the vibrola, and don't use the vibrola feature. It's a shame, cuz it's the SuperBlade system from Super Vee.

Maybe the culprit is the nut. Maybe the bone nut should be replaced with a Graphtech? Frustrating...

 

[DonP]

If the strings are pinging at the nut, the nut is not properly cut. It is grabbing.

 

[syscokid]

If the strings are pinging at the nut, the nut is not properly cut. It is grabbing.

I was afraid someone was going to say that.

 

[smitty_p]

Maybe the culprit is the nut. Maybe the bone nut should be replaced with a Graphtech?

Maybe, you could try dressing the slots with nut files or abrasive cord before you go all out with a new nut.

Mitchell Abrasive Cord | stewmac.com

Keep in mind, this Washburn is one of my modding platforms. I bought it with the expectation of modding/improving at will. Call it an obsession.

You may not need to go that far with yours.

 

[syscokid]

Maybe, you could try dressing the slots with nut files or abrasive cord before you go all out with a new nut.

Mitchell Abrasive Cord | stewmac.com

About a month ago, I have made that attempt, exactly as you have suggested. Even have the Mitchell Abrasive Cord in all 4 sizes which I used, too. I will re evaluate.

 

[smitty_p]

About a month ago, I have made that attempt, exactly as you have suggested. Even have the Mitchell Abrasive Cord in all 4 sizes which I used, too. I will re evaluate.

I suppose that type of issue is part of the reason I opted for a pre-slotted nut. Though, sanding the bottom, while trying to keep it square and true, can present it's own challenges.

 

[Inspector #20]

It's been a goal of mine for quite awhile to replace the cheap, plastic nut on my Washburn HB-30. Not only did it look cheap, it had the feel of the type of plastic you'd find in a plastic model airplane kit.

My plan is to eventually put some sort of vibrato on that guitar. Consequently, I've been looking at using something like the Graphtech Tusq XL nut, to help with return to pitch stability. That's really the main reason I've been wanting to replace the nut in the first place. It's somewhat of a pre-emptive move. Getting rid of a cheap-looking nut is a bonus.

Now, the tricky part is that there is no listing on Graphtech's website for anything for a Washburn. However, a Tusq nut for an Epiphone works quite well. The part number I ended up with is PQL-6061-00. This nut matched the thickness and string spacing perfectly. However, I did have to sand a fair amount off the bottom and just a touch off the ends.

I lucked out with this. I was a bit nervous about getting the height were it needed to be. But, I got it right where I needed it. The strings are high enough that I get no buzzing on the first few frets, yet I'm able to finger chords without pulling the notes sharp.

So, a few pics...

Here is the original nut. I don't know what purpose the hollow openings serve in the bottom of the nut, if any.

View attachment 15693


Here's the new nut in place and strung up. You'll notice the wound G string!

View attachment 15694

And finally, the rear showing the Tusq XL logo. I may still sand some off the top of the nut, so the slots aren't so deep. I only really want the slots to come about halfway up the wound strings, and just to the top of the plain strings.


View attachment 15695

That's top notch work, Smitty!!!

I ask because I've been experiencing tuning stability issues with one of my Gibsons that has a vibrato system. The vibrato system is like a Strat's vibrato. The guitar has a bone nut with the typical Gibson headstock angle. There are no locking tuners, so I use the Poor Man's String-Locking technique. I had the vibrato setup with just a credit card thickness of float. But, even if I don't touch the vibrola bar, some of the strings are pinging at the nut when I bend them. As far as I can tell, the nut slots seem to be properly cut. The steep headstock angle is putting a lot of string pressure at the nut.

I got frustrated with the guitar's tuning issues, that I ended up decking the bridge plate to the body. I keep the arm removed from the vibrola, and don't use the vibrola feature. It's a shame, cuz it's the SuperBlade system from Super Vee.

Maybe the culprit is the nut. Maybe the bone nut should be replaced with a Graphtech? Frustrating...

No issues with tuning whatsoever here with stock Gibson nuts....and all the Gibson's ride super high in the nut.



Now, on the 12 string, the string spread is even greater than on a six string, but no tuning issues....and I'm running really deep in the grooves too....