NCD: Peavey 430A 412 cabinet
- Thread starter Dave Sloven
- Start date
ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
I've just been reading through this thread, you did a great job Dave. I did just want to mention this though, for future reference. The "Bakers" flux should be avoided for any type of electronic soldering as it is a corrosive type flux. It will aid in easy "taking" of the solder, but over time will continue to corrode the metal that you have soldered to, leaving a good mechanical joint but poor electrical joint. Note the "over time" bit, it won't happen quickly.
Cheers
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Zayebis blyat!
Seriously though, thank you, I was ignorant of this issue and now I am thinking of where I have used this before. Probably inside at least one of my guitars as well as on these cabs. I didn't realise that this flux was caustic, although I should have guessed by how well it cleaned the tip of my soldering iron.
Do you have any recommendations on how to neutralise it? I don't want the speaker connections to corrode, that could cause an amp failure.
ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
Our electronics genius DonP could maybe best answer this question, but maybe a good flushing off with the rosin cored 60/40 solder would help. The rosin act as a wetting agent, but it will also lift contaminants up & off the surface of the metal. The Jaycar solder does seem to have a bit of an excess of rosin (notice it can "spatter" a bit), so might do well at flushing it off.
If you ask the staff at Jaycar they should point you to an electronics grade (non corrosive) type flux. Cheers
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Thanks, I went in to Jaycar yesterday after your reply
Yeah. Some of those fluxes are really meant for soldering (sweating) copper pipe for plumbing work, not electronics work.
I use rosin flux for all my electronic soldering. I apply it before actually soldering the parts together. Then, after the joint has cooled, I'll either blast the flux residue off with electronics cleaner or wipe it off with a cotton swab and alcohol.
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
They sold me some kind of flux pen plus some cleaner for circuitboards
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
One thing I was really not happy with on this cab was the wheels. So I bought myself a heavy duty furniture dolly. I can move the Orange PP412 on this as well when needed. So I removed the mounting plates from the bottom of the cab so that this dolly could fit between the rubber feet. Now it turns on a dime, as Americans say.
ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
The flux pen will work well. They (Jaycar) also have a 10g syringe Pak of flux designed for use with lead free type solder.
The flux pen is a rosin based flux desinged for use with (solder paste &) surface mount components, so it'll be fine. I like to tin (coat with solders) components before soldering. Then, once I have a good mechanical joint between the tinned components I simply flow the solder over them. Cheers
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OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
Sold the Ashton cab today, $250. Which is pretty good, given that I bought the Peavey cab for $300. The buyer is mad keen to try out the Stephens speakers, being a Peavey fan. Says he's going to try them in his JSX cab that he is running under a 50W EVH 5150 III.
Made $50 more than I would have made if my friend bought it (he ended up needing an 8 ohm cab with that amp), so I've spent that $50 on a ticket to see Bongzilla play on Sunday night.
Made $50 more than I would have made if my friend bought it (he ended up needing an 8 ohm cab with that amp), so I've spent that $50 on a ticket to see Bongzilla play on Sunday night.
OP
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
I was in Mitre 10 yesterday and found some panhead phillips screws that looked like they might work better for my output jack bezel than the countersunk ones taken from the plastic bezel.
A big improvement
A big improvement