Session 5
Ambassador of Strings & Wings
This is what i think of when I hear Green Hornet.
I have the VHT meter. I guess I was just looking for a way to compare the tubes out of the amp, so I wouldn't have to swap the sockets around. I guess it's not that much more work.There is a couple of ways to determine each individual tube of a quad's plate current. The most accurate way is to "break" the plate circuit & insert a Milliamp meter (between the valve & it's OT primary lead). I use one of these for this purposeView attachment 38900
It is simply an octal plug & socket that is inserted between the valve socket & valve. All pins are connected between the plug & socket, except the plate pins (pin 3), which have the one of the two leads connected to each of the pins 3, thus breaking the circuit. Connected to a mA meter, this gives a direct & very accurate reading of that tubes plate current. Note, you "must" have the Milliamp meter connected when you power the amp up, otherwise the plate won't conduct as it won't have the B+ voltage on it, but the screen grid will conduct & maybe over-dissipate (red-screen or even achieve meltdown).
Another way is to insert 1 ohm (use minimum 1 watt) resistors between each power tube cathode & ground. They need to be 1% tolerance or better for accuracy. Reading the millivolt drop across these will give each tubes "total" current draw (combined plate & screen current). 1 Mv voltage drop = 1 Ma current. As it's giving the tubes total current draw you will need to calculate the screen current & subtract it from the total current draw to get the plate current. To calculate screen current, first measure & note the actual resistance of the tubes screen grid resistor (amp not powered up), then, with the amp powered up & stabilised, read the voltage drop across the screen grid resistor. Now divide the voltage drop figure by the resistance of the resistor to get the screen current.
Once you know all tubes plate current you can work out which tubes to pair up to get the best side to side plate current balance. Hope this helps. Cheers
Edit:- Some people actually prefer somewhat mis-matched power tubes as they say it gives better harmonic content. Cheers
I'm talking about 12AX7. Should have specified. My Miniwatt is Made In Canada. Thought it was Amperex but don't know. Could be RCA. I have a couple Hammond branded Amperex as well.Check the date codes on the Philips Miniwatt tubes to maybe ascertain where they were manufactured. In my Black Flag JTM50 build I have a matching date code, Philips Miniwatt branded duet of xf2 EL34's & a Valvo branded f32 GZ34. Date codes show all were manufactured in the Blackburn Mullard plant.View attachment 38888
My JMP50 build has a duet of GE branded xf2 EL34's, also manufactured in the Blackburn Mullard plantView attachment 38890
Rebranding was very commonly done. I have RTC branded 163 series Blackburn Mullard ECC83's in a few amps.
Back on the "Miniwatt" theme, here's a very early Miniwatt Australia 12AX7, manufactured at the Philips plant in Hendon, South AustraliaView attachment 38892
Pic taken from Radio Museum Australia.
Like Philips/Mullard, RCA also set up manufacturing plants in other countries. The very first valve manufacturing plant here in Oz (Radiotron plant, Sydney NSW) was set up by RCA. As well as manufacturing RCA designed valves, the Radiotron plant also designed several types. F Langford Smith authored the very excellent "Radiotron Designers Handbook", considered the "Tube Bible" the world over. The fourth edition is the most comprehensive, but any edition is excellent. Cheers