It's not a roller, but infinitely adjustable...
And only forty bucks.
Cepheus 12 String TOM Bridge - RondoMusic.com
And only forty bucks.
Cepheus 12 String TOM Bridge - RondoMusic.com
Micro-Machining Project:
- Thread starter Inspector #20
- Start date
OP
DonP
Guest
Hold off from getting those made for a moment. I'm making a change to make them easier to machine, so they should come in a bit cheaper. They will work better too.
Dropbox - 12 string roller saddle mkII.SLDPRT
Dropbox - 12 string roller saddle mkII.SLDPRT
OP
Wow, Don! I just saw this! Thank you!!!
Now that I have my spare taken apart, let me confirm the axle O.D. and update you.
Most shops have told me the parts are too small.
Suggestions, guys???
P.S. how are your stepped saddles coming along???
OP
Wow, Don! I just saw this! Thank you!!!
Now that I have my spare taken apart, let me confirm the axle O.D. and update you.
Most shops have told me the parts arr too small.
Suggestions, guys???
DonP
Guest
My stepped saddles are on the back burner right now - other stuff is more important. The way to tackle the problem of the exact size of the axle holes is to take an axle along for them to fit it to. I can make the drawing to whatever size you have, but in the end it will be a hand fit job.
This is definitely something that somebody with a hobby lathe might take on. You'd turn them on the end of a piece of rod then just part them off one at a time. I had to go to three decimal places with the dimensions because everything is so small, but the bits don't need the kind of tolerance normally associated with that degree of precision. Roughly the right diameter, with the grooves in roughly the right places is what you need. And not so long that they jam in the recess. Were I doing this I might be tempted to do most of the work with the lathe and some needle files.
This is definitely something that somebody with a hobby lathe might take on. You'd turn them on the end of a piece of rod then just part them off one at a time. I had to go to three decimal places with the dimensions because everything is so small, but the bits don't need the kind of tolerance normally associated with that degree of precision. Roughly the right diameter, with the grooves in roughly the right places is what you need. And not so long that they jam in the recess. Were I doing this I might be tempted to do most of the work with the lathe and some needle files.
syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
That'll be $250 for one screw. Would you like Next Day Delivery?
DonP
Guest
The guy is clearly a sandwich short of a picnic, but hey, it is people like this that produce greatness. My main point was that for the price of a hobby lathe you can do it yourself.
OP
Indeed!!!!
OP
I'm in touch with these guys:
Machining Services
What you think, Don, 304 Stainless to combat rust??? or Brass???
ChasFred
Ambassador of Smooth Operations
OP
Don, now that I have the spare bridge, I was able to do a more finite set of measurements with the rollers removed. I also used a digital caliper for these readings.
Here are the revised specifications:
Roller Outside Diameter - .157"
Roller Overall Length - .151"
Roller Inside Diameter - .082"
The string spacing remains unchanged from our previous discussion.
Would you be so kind as to alter the specifications/plans at your convenience of course.
Thanks!!!
OP
Reply from machinist:
Hi Robert,
Thanks for contacting Small Parts CNC.
What type of material are you looking for to have these made from.
One area that may be a little tricky are the grooves. These have a .005" flat with .010" radii on either side. This can be slow to cut since you need a very small sharp point tool to hit that .005" flat.
Are there any tight tolerances? Our standard is +/- .005" but can hold tighter if needed. Probably want it tighter on the groove, so you will need to let us know what that is. Anything not called out with a specific tolerance will be held to within +/- .005".
Let me know if you have any questions. Once we get these few questions answered we can get you a quote and lead time.
Thanks again,
Terry Gastouniotis
(805) 452-3381
info@smallpartscnc.com
www.smallpartscnc.com
Hi Robert,
Thanks for contacting Small Parts CNC.
What type of material are you looking for to have these made from.
One area that may be a little tricky are the grooves. These have a .005" flat with .010" radii on either side. This can be slow to cut since you need a very small sharp point tool to hit that .005" flat.
Are there any tight tolerances? Our standard is +/- .005" but can hold tighter if needed. Probably want it tighter on the groove, so you will need to let us know what that is. Anything not called out with a specific tolerance will be held to within +/- .005".
Let me know if you have any questions. Once we get these few questions answered we can get you a quote and lead time.
Thanks again,
Terry Gastouniotis
(805) 452-3381
info@smallpartscnc.com
www.smallpartscnc.com
DonP
Guest
OK, Here it is with the new dimensions
Dropbox - 12 string roller saddle mkIII.SLDPRT
For tolerances, just explain that none of them are critical - .005" is really good in any direction. But he should regard the length as a maximum, and the hole diameter should be a loose-ish fit on the axle, which you should supply him. A picture of the bridge should explain to him how it all goes together and what is critical.
The curves inside the grooves are indicative - whatever he can reproduce will be good. Again, show him the bridge and he will get it.
Dropbox - 12 string roller saddle mkIII.SLDPRT
For tolerances, just explain that none of them are critical - .005" is really good in any direction. But he should regard the length as a maximum, and the hole diameter should be a loose-ish fit on the axle, which you should supply him. A picture of the bridge should explain to him how it all goes together and what is critical.
The curves inside the grooves are indicative - whatever he can reproduce will be good. Again, show him the bridge and he will get it.
OP
Will do! Thanks a million!
OP
Don, what do you think about 304 stainless????
DonP
Guest
It's nice but if this is really a prototype use brass. Much easier to modify
OP
Good idea.
Nylon has different grades like metal or steel I should say. The 6/6 nylon is very soft and gummy.
6/8 snaps easy and 8/8 is hard but gums up your cutting bit. Injection moulds are the best way to have things done to your specs. The Thomas Regional buying guide is a great place to find some one who works in plastics and Nylon.