Lightning bolt bridge placement

SG John said:
If I was going to set it up that way, then mark the location for the bridge post, I would not use a drill. Too much room for mistakes. I'd get a transfer punch as close to the correct width of the slot as possible. That way you know you have something solid inside the slot making contact with as much surface as possible.

I do like the way you mounted a second bridge to a block beyond the body. I've used a trapeze tailpiece mounted at the strap button in the past.

https://www.grainger.com/product/22...TdLKI95PGlC06WDU9PsaAnPUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Transfer punch. Thank you! I will get a set

And thanks for the nod on the bridge block thing. That part worked fine.

Anyway, after I disassembled that contraption, I strung up the high and low E again and stretched the bridge at the marks. The strings lined up well. Since I have travel with the grub screws for intonation and I am bound to be very close, I should be fine following those marks
 
SG John said:
If I was going to set it up that way, then mark the location for the bridge post, I would not use a drill. Too much room for mistakes. I'd get a transfer punch as close to the correct width of the slot as possible. That way you know you have something solid inside the slot making contact with as much surface as possible.

I do like the way you mounted a second bridge to a block beyond the body. I've used a trapeze tailpiece mounted at the strap button in the past.

https://www.grainger.com/product/22...TdLKI95PGlC06WDU9PsaAnPUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click to expand...
John, I learned of these transfer punches recently as well. Great suggestion for Ray.
 
SG John said:
The guy in the video that Ray posted is using transfer punches for the bridge placement. I just watched it now, otherwise I would have mentioned it in my previous post.
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Thanks to you I now know what they are. I was not sure when I saw the video. Brad points were the best I had on hand, but not for long!
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
That may be where I saw them if I watched this vid in days past.
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I've been using them for over forty years. Back in the days of drill press lines, you'd have an aluminum jig with drill bushings where holes are supposed to be. You'd clamp it to a part, transfer the hole locations, remove the jig, then run the piece down the drill press table. Old industrial drill presses could have as many as six or eight drill motors on them, all for drills, countersinks, counterbores, and taps.
 
RVA said:
Thanks to you I now know what they are. I was not sure when I saw the video. Brad points were the best I had on hand, but not for long!
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Ray, Now I think I remember where I saw transfer punches. Pretty sure I saw em in a threaded insert install vid for neck insert locating.
 
RVA said:
Reminds me of this, which was recommended to me by Amazon his week

View attachment 82917
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Shops used to have many of these type of Clausing drill press, but started scrapping them as CNCs took over. Now, many shops are trying to find them again, as certain things still need to be done by hand, and you can leave repetitive jobs set up. There would be no change over time when removing a part from a CNC, do a quick op on the the drill press, throw it in a box.

Clausing 15″ 6 Head Drill Press with Production Table – Mullin Machinery
 
RVA said:
Question: I am a fan of a lighting bar bridge, and I have them on hand. However, given the fact that I have options, am I crazy not to do an adjustable wrap around? It allows so much room for error!
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I would say yes based on the fact that a lightning bar is always a compromise.
 
RVA said:
Question: I am a fan of a lighting bar bridge, and I have them on hand. However, given the fact that I have options, am I crazy not to do an adjustable wrap around? It allows so much room for error!
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t say you’re crazy! Of course, you recognize that the bridge is a compromise, of sorts.

By experimenting with differing string gauges, you may be able to get surprisingly close to proper intonation.
 
Dude... you have an AWESOME example in your Haram............
sgj1.jpg

FYI I will be happy to pay you wed for this hamburger today :)


FYI --- IVE PLACED ETERNAL DIBS ON THIS SG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DAMN IT!
dont even try people!
 
RVA said:
Question: I am a fan of a lighting bar bridge, and I have them on hand. However, given the fact that I have options, am I crazy not to do an adjustable wrap around? It allows so much room for error!
Click to expand...

smitty_p said:
I wouldn’t say you’re crazy! Of course, you recognize that the bridge is a compromise, of sorts.

By experimenting with differing string gauges, you may be able to get surprisingly close to proper intonation.
Click to expand...

The transfer of energy from the string to the body is usually quite good with one of those type tailpieces. Experimenting with the manufacturer is also good. I found that the MojoAxe tailpiece intonated perfectly with a set of Ernie Ball Rock and Roll Slinky nickel .010" sets. Then, there are many types that have adjustable saddles. I've always been a fan of the Leo Quan Bad Ass bridge/tailpiece. Aside from one on my '68 SG Junior, I have three extras stashed away in the toolbox for future projects should I decide to go that route.
 
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