Lightning bolt bridge placement
I've seen em both ways,
so that's a real good question, Ray.
so that's a real good question, Ray.
OP
RVA
Ambassador
Between the compensation and the grub screw adjustment, why would you need offset?
@Hackmaster , if you look at the second pic where the bridge is offset, the strings are not even in the grooves. I bet someone put a compensated bridge on an old guitar that was cut for a smooth bridge on that one
@Hackmaster , if you look at the second pic where the bridge is offset, the strings are not even in the grooves. I bet someone put a compensated bridge on an old guitar that was cut for a smooth bridge on that one
SG John
Ambassador of Cool Guitars and Amps.
The lower picture is wrong. Lightning bolt bridge is later than '63, and needs to be straight. '62 and earlier is angled because it had a completely different tailpiece.
It's difficult to see, but there is a slight ridge cast into the tailpieces used for Juniors and Specials.
OP
RVA
Ambassador
Thanks! Looks straight to me. Correct?
OP
RVA
Ambassador
Thanks plexi. That does seem to have a slight offset. I wonder where the scale length line falls though
OP
RVA
Ambassador
Thank you!
OP
RVA
Ambassador
Thank you! Very precise!
OP
RVA
Ambassador
So anyway, I made this playable at the E strings and at a reasonable string height, and then I intonated with the strings EXACTLY where I want them on the FB
When I had both intonation and string placement right, I used a brad point bit the size of the stud slots to mark my locations
The lightning bolt was basically at the scale length line, which is good (check out my crude scale ruler!)
BUT, even though the intonation is good and the string placement is ideal, the bridge is not where I expected.
First, the bass side mark is FORWARD by slightly less than 1/16. This could be because the phone app tuner was not picking up the low E string very well and I slightly missed the precise intonation point. Since I have travel for intonation adjustment with the bridge grub screws, I may just even them out. Then again, I can't go FORWARD with that adjustment
Second, the center of the bridge is not centered on the body seam. A slight variance in my pocket cut? A product of the lightning bolt design? I guess I can't worry about this, as long as the string placement is where I want it to be.
Bottom line, I am very glad I did this. Nothing like making decisions for the guitar as it is, rather on general principles. After all, I am not a CNC machine, so I need room to adjust for errors along the way where it counts the most.
Thoughts on the above are welcome
When I had both intonation and string placement right, I used a brad point bit the size of the stud slots to mark my locations
The lightning bolt was basically at the scale length line, which is good (check out my crude scale ruler!)
BUT, even though the intonation is good and the string placement is ideal, the bridge is not where I expected.
First, the bass side mark is FORWARD by slightly less than 1/16. This could be because the phone app tuner was not picking up the low E string very well and I slightly missed the precise intonation point. Since I have travel for intonation adjustment with the bridge grub screws, I may just even them out. Then again, I can't go FORWARD with that adjustment
Second, the center of the bridge is not centered on the body seam. A slight variance in my pocket cut? A product of the lightning bolt design? I guess I can't worry about this, as long as the string placement is where I want it to be.
Bottom line, I am very glad I did this. Nothing like making decisions for the guitar as it is, rather on general principles. After all, I am not a CNC machine, so I need room to adjust for errors along the way where it counts the most.
Thoughts on the above are welcome
Last edited:
SG John
Ambassador of Cool Guitars and Amps.
If I was going to set it up that way, then mark the location for the bridge post, I would not use a drill. Too much room for mistakes. I'd get a transfer punch as close to the correct width of the slot as possible. That way you know you have something solid inside the slot making contact with as much surface as possible.
I do like the way you mounted a second bridge to a block beyond the body. I've used a trapeze tailpiece mounted at the strap button in the past.
https://www.grainger.com/product/22...TdLKI95PGlC06WDU9PsaAnPUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I do like the way you mounted a second bridge to a block beyond the body. I've used a trapeze tailpiece mounted at the strap button in the past.
https://www.grainger.com/product/22...TdLKI95PGlC06WDU9PsaAnPUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
@RVA, I am pullin for ya, bro. I know you are more experienced with what works and how to go about things guitar hardware and details wise than I am. I have never had or even messed with any bridges like this that were even already installed, let alone mounted one from scratch.
Plus I almost need to have hands on and eyes and a feel for the task in order to feel like I have it all sorted out before drilling, gluing, or any of the permanent steps.
It is really cool how you installed a tailpiece into a scrap block of wood, plus how you put that block under the lightning bolt bridge and ran the 2 strings up the neck.
Also, with regards to the bridge not being centered over the center seam in the guitar body, could it be centered if it were mounted straight and not angled? I can't tell on the computer screen.
Plus I almost need to have hands on and eyes and a feel for the task in order to feel like I have it all sorted out before drilling, gluing, or any of the permanent steps.
It is really cool how you installed a tailpiece into a scrap block of wood, plus how you put that block under the lightning bolt bridge and ran the 2 strings up the neck.
Also, with regards to the bridge not being centered over the center seam in the guitar body, could it be centered if it were mounted straight and not angled? I can't tell on the computer screen.