Let's Discuss Fret Replacement

Inspector #20

Inspector #20

Ambassador of Tone
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I'm good with putting new frets in a new neck, but I'm nervous about refretting a guitar that's already been in service for several years.

I am barely able to get 5-6 months out of a fret job, so stepping up to the Jescar Gold Evo Frets is a major thing for me. I'm getting zero wear on the thus far.

So, what do I need to consider when refretting?? I won't have tang measurements until I actually start pulling the Frets, which is another thing that's concerning to me.

Advice appreciated...
 
I want in here. I have been wondering about refretting for a while now, and have been considering upgrading to something that won't wear so quickly. How does the Evo stand up against SS fretwire?
 
Yargnad said:
I've only had SS frets. no EVO yet. SS is more metallic and colder sounding to me than normal fretwire. Just has a harder/crispier edge to the tone.
Click to expand...

Right...

I probably need SS frets, but the Jescar Gold Evo Frets are soft enough to work without diamond files...
 
Heat the old frets with a soldering iron.
They pull out a lot easier when hot. What's too hot? When you see smoke, it's hot.
If it's been refretted before & the frets were superglued in, the smoke will be acrid.
You'll know right off.

Best of luck, Robert.
 
Hackmaster said:
Heat the old frets with a soldering iron.
They pull out a lot easier when hot. What's too hot? When you see smoke, it's hot.
If it's been refretted before & the frets were superglued in, the smoke will be acrid.
You'll know right off.

Best of luck, Robert.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna practice on my old Hohner 400N, which the frets literally started falling out of years ago.
 
How do you figure out what tang measurements to use when the slot is damaged from pulling the frets???
 
Yargnad said:
I think there's a stewmac video on that. IIRC they repair the slots first and sand the fretboard back to radius and then measure everything. I guess you could measure the tang on the old frets, but that's not my area of expertise. I've only done this once.
Click to expand...

I've only installed new frets on new boards, so I'm super curious.
 
I refretted my '74 SG when it was about 30 years old. I had no issues with it. It still had the original frets from Gibson, and I don't recall them giving me any trouble. Just be careful and don't be too aggressive.

The fretboard was rosewood, which is a little more forgiving than ebony.
 
"Lets discuss fret replacement"

1. Call @Hackmaster
2. remove neck
3. meet Hackmaster for lunch (buy many beers)
4. give Hackmaster the neck and ask for it to be refretted
5. email him the next day to confirm (lol)
6. ENJOY YOUR NEW FRETLESS JAZZ BASS................................. :pound-hand: :pound-hand: :pound-hand: :pound-hand: :pound-hand: :pound-hand: :pound-hand: :2Thumbs: :2Thumbs:
fretless jazz.jpg

I think I might have bought to many beers.............................................. but hey the end result IS FOOGIN STELLAR!
 
This are the best pics I could find. This is a typical unbound neck.
DSC08695.JPG
Heating fret


DSC08697 (1).JPG
Using wood chisel to get under fret , then gently pry up. Go slow to minimize chip out.

DSC08714 (1).JPG
I clean the fret slots with a scroll saw.

DSC07902.JPG

I also grind a bevel on the tang. That eliminates the possibility of the tang hanging out of the slot if the wood shrinks due to climate.
And install the frets.

DSC08771.JPG
When all the frets are in, I close up the fret slots with a wipe of wood glue.
DSC08779.JPG


This one has fretboard binding
DSC07828.JPG
I still remove the old frets the same way, but can't clean the fret slots with the binding. So I scrape the slot clean with a cut down saw blade.

DSC08756.JPG
Seeing that there's binding, I undercut the tang on the fret ends so that they sit on top of the binding, instead of grinding the bevel.

DSC07870 (1).JPG
Then I install them.
No fancy arbor press, I just use a hammer with a brass face, and tap em in.
DSC07875.JPG
Then I added the fake nibs. with white cyano glue.

It may not be a textbook method, but it's worked for me for years.
 
Hackmaster said:
This are the best pics I could find. This is a typical unbound neck.
View attachment 68366
Heating fret


View attachment 68362
Using wood chisel to get under fret , then gently pry up. Go slow to minimize chip out.

View attachment 68364
I clean the fret slots with a scroll saw.

View attachment 68378

I also grind a bevel on the tang. That eliminates the possibility of the tang hanging out of the slot if the wood shrinks due to climate.
And install the frets.

View attachment 68365
When all the frets are in, I close up the fret slots with a wipe of wood glue.
View attachment 68367


This one has fretboard binding
View attachment 68369
I still remove the old frets the same way, but can't clean the fret slots with the binding. So I scrape the slot clean with a cut down saw blade.

View attachment 68376
Seeing that there's binding, I undercut the tang on the fret ends so that they sit on top of the binding, instead of grinding the bevel.

View attachment 68373
Then I install them.
No fancy arbor press, I just use a hammer with a brass face, and tap em in.
View attachment 68374
Then I added the fake nibs. with white cyano glue.

It may not be a textbook method, but it's worked for me for years.
Click to expand...

Those are really good methods and I appreciate you sharing!!!!
 
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