Sp8ctre
Ambassador of Steel
This Strat is beautiful. Congrats...
Noticed a .1uF tone cap. Do you prefer that over a .047?
I almost ALWAYS play with the tone controls wide open which makes the tone pot a non issue...
This Strat is beautiful. Congrats...
Noticed a .1uF tone cap. Do you prefer that over a .047?
...and, she's done! Tuners in, Strung Up, Tuned and Intonated! Just awaiting arrival of some string trees and a hard case to complete the deal!
Some pictures to include the back of the pickguard for those asking about pickups...Fender 59's
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Excellent! I will come play it!
Which one? Is there a thread on this one?I still need to get that trouble maker Strat to you...
Thats one big mofo cap in there. Jeez a 150v cap for a milliamperes signal![]()
I agree with these statement, except the releif becomes somewhat irrevelvant at 12 and totally irrelevant at 15. Further, while raising the action could help, a straight neck with a good level should be able to achieve very low action on a Strat without buzz, as low as 1/32 at high E and 3/64 at low E, assuming you are not dynamically aggressive. Anything below this baseline, and I would give it a fret level.Another very nice looking Strat.
Throwing out some ideas:
A: If the neck is perfectly straight (No relief), then it might be a fret leveling issue.
B: If the there is too much relief, but the action is set low at the bridge saddles, then that might be the issue. You would need to raise the action at the bridge and reduce the relief
Got a deal I couldn't pass up...all I need is one of my beautiful "AAA" Flame Maple Necks!
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Thanks RVA. I stated that, not from personal experience but from a conversation I had with a local guitar shop owner (and repairman) who's been at it for a long time. He summerized by saying that in theory when relief is created, that a dip will be created between the nut and where the neck joins the body. But, and this is a big "but", sometimes the level of the nut and the first fret(s) might actually rise and not be level with the 15th thru 21st, or more frets, as relief is increased. He says he has witnessed this himself.I agree with these statement, except the releif becomes somewhat irrevelvant at 12 and totally irrelevant at 15. Further, while raising the action could help, a straight neck with a good level should be able to achieve very low action on a Strat without buzz, as low as 1/32 at high E and 3/64 at low E, assuming you are not dynamically aggressive. Anything below this baseline, and I would give it a fret level.
Nice Strat BTW!
I guess all these theories presume the truss road is working properly and the neck is not warped.Thanks RVA. I stated that, not from personal experience but from a conversation I had with a local guitar shop owner (and repairman) who's been at it for a long time. He summerized by saying that in theory when relief is created, that a dip will be created between the nut and where the neck joins the body. But, and this is a big "but", sometimes the level of the nut and the first fret(s) might actually rise and not be level with the 15th thru 21st, or more frets, as relief is increased. He says he has witnessed this himself.
Thanks RVA. I stated that, not from personal experience but from a conversation I had with a local guitar shop owner (and repairman) who's been at it for a long time. He summerized by saying that in theory when relief is created, that a dip will be created between the nut and where the neck joins the body. But, and this is a big "but", sometimes the level of the nut and the first fret(s) might actually rise and not be level with the 15th thru 21st, or more frets, as relief is increased. He says he has witnessed this himself.
I guess all these theories presume the truss road is working properly and the neck is not warped.
"Fall Away"? Explain further, please!My presumption is it will require a "fall-away" cut from the 12th through 21st frets. In general, I do this on every guitar that I level & crown...
"Fall Away"? Explain further, please!