How many of you guys have a Gretsch or other guitar with a 3x3 headstock that won't stay in tune after using the Bigsby?

I have the standard issue Tunomatic style bridge on three of my Electromatics and a Compton brass bridge on my White Falcon. I am writing an article for a publication or website, I'm not sure which. I'm just getting paid to write the article

I know that if anybody can make a Bigsby guitar stay in tune it would be you. Your skills precede your reputation. I've only seen two YouTube videos where the guys got it right. My procedure is a little different than a lot of guys, but I can dive the crap out of the bar, as long as the floating bridge will stay put. Mine does. I'm going to do an article with pics, and I will post my procedure here, if there's enough interest.

Unlike you Scott, I'm not an actual Luthier. But I started rehabbing wrecked guitars almost as soon as I started playing them. I have some woodworking experience, making furniture,etc.

I started repairing other people's guitars starting in 2008. Just small jobs. But the repairs got bigger and more complex as the years went on. I dona lot of setups and fret leveling. And the occasional refret here and there.

The publication I'm writing the 2 articles that I'm working on is aimed at beginner to intermediate players.

We should compare notes sometime. I'm sure I could learn a lot more from you than I already have.
Here is a little demonstration video that shows how this is supposed to work. Again, with a bigsby the contact point between the string and the saddle should never change, slip, slide over, etc. if your bridge is set correctly to rock with the whammy the guitar will stay in tune all night even with aggressive use of the bigsby.

 
Here is a little demonstration video that shows how this is supposed to work. Again, with a bigsby the contact point between the string and the saddle should never change, slip, slide over, etc. if your bridge is set correctly to rock with the whammy the guitar will stay in tune all night even with aggressive use of the bigsby.

Kinda like my Stetsbar, where the bridge, and tailpiece, move together. That type of setup works well with a well cut nut, and the correct string winding on the tuners(or locking tuners).
IMG_5138.jpeg
Push the bar down, the top plate (consisting of bridge and tailpiece) moves toward the neck, pitch drops. Pull up, and pitch rises.
I have another (on a Flying V) that is setup to “drop only” at the moment. The nut on that one is pretty perfect, but maybe I could improve it…afraid to mess up a good thing though, as it functions fine in “decked mode”.
 
Kinda like my Stetsbar, where the bridge, and tailpiece, move together. That type of setup works well with a well cut nut, and the correct string winding on the tuners(or locking tuners).
View attachment 101687
Push the bar down, the top plate (consisting of bridge and tailpiece) moves toward the neck, pitch drops. Pull up, and pitch rises.
I have another (on a Flying V) that is setup to “drop only” at the moment. The nut on that one is pretty perfect, but maybe I could improve it…afraid to mess up a good thing though, as it functions fine in “decked mode”.
All nuts should be well cut. It’s the first step for a good set up. The Stetsbar works ok, but it’s way too much “Battlestar Galactia” looking for me, same with most locking Floyd type bridges. They are a bit too clunky.
 
Now you’ve got me thinking @3bolt79 . I’m gonna half to go home a dive the heck out of my avatar. I am mostly a shimmer guy. But would like the deep dive in my back pocket for fun. Avatar is a Country Gentleman in amber flame with a rocking bar bridge.

I’d certainly like to hear more.
 
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