Help/Advice on Re-Tolexing a Marshall Head:

The corner guards appear to be riveted on??? How to remove them???

How to replace the speaker cloth (under the Marshall script) with Tolex???
 
Chilly in here. :unsure:

I've done that job and it's not fun, at all. You pry the rivets out with a flathead from under the plastic. You will no doubt waste all the corner plastic and will need new corners.

Your handle covers should be easy. I did the old style that .....was rocket science. :confused:

I highly recommend having it done. After going through glue/tolex hell and your material cost you'll see why. Lol.

I repeat, grueling.
 
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Sapient said:
Chilly in here. :unsure:

I've done that job and it's not fun, at all. You pry the rivets out with a flathead from under the plastic. You will no doubt waste all the corner plastic and will need new corners.

Your handle covers should be easy. I did the old style that .....was rocket science. :confused:

I highly recommend having it done. After going through glue/tolex hell and your material cost you'll see why. Lol.

I repeat, grueling.
Click to expand...

Question for you...

The speaker-like fabric under the Marshall script...how did you recover that section???
 
Wonder if brass corner pieces are available???

I also like those straps with gold trim.

Better start posting parts to this thread!!!!
 
Guys...

I remember playing through these when they were new at White's Music in Tulare, California around 1992-1993, when these first came out...and not being able to afford one...

__57.jpg
 
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Robert Herndon said:
The corner guards appear to be riveted on??? How to remove them???

How to replace the speaker cloth (under the Marshall script) with Tolex???
Click to expand...
You have to buy new corners.
You can pull the nails out with precision cutters.
First you bite into the plastic to get under the head of the nail.
(use sharp new precision cutters)
Then you put the blades under the head and tilt down the handle of the pliers like the claw of a hammer.
The pliers are a lever blade that grabs lifts the nail shaft straight up, out of the hole.
But it will destroy the plastic corner, you can get some new metal corners that install with screws instead of nails.
I go with Penn Fab hardware if I have a choice.
1640354962688.png

If I was doing this project I would get 2 pairs of pliers at least because they do break.
 
For years I ran an old JTM30, but I hated that "dry" tone. Same with JCM800 2204. I wanted reverb and chorus, so I bought pedals, but the pedals never sounded as good as these amps.

I finally scraped up the dough to put a brand new 1997 Marshall Valvestate VS265 Stereo Chorus Combo. I put $50.00 down and paid $75.00/month. That amp was $795.00 brand new in 1997.

That amp weighed a beastly 65 pounds. I played that amp until 2018, when I traded it for a brand new - and lighter - Marshall DSL40C. There was nothing wrong with the VS265, I just became increasingly concerned that gigging 5 nights a week was killing it and I couldn't fix it if something broke. It was also really hard to get in and out of trunk.

The Bi-Chorus feature is stunning. NO pedal I have ever heard - even in stereo - has this depth and width. The JC-120 is a joke in comparison...ask @ChasFred, because we sat down and played the Roland's together.
 
Amp Mad Scientist said:
You have to buy new corners.
You can pull the nails out with precision cutters.
First you bite into the plastic to get under the head of the nail.
(use sharp new precision cutters)
Then you put the blades under the head and tilt down the handle of the pliers like the claw of a hammer.
The pliers are a lever blade that grabs lifts the nail shaft straight up, out of the hole.
But it will destroy the plastic corner, you can get some new metal corners that install with screws instead of nails.
I go with Penn Fab hardware if I have a choice.
View attachment 77659

If I was doing this project I would get 2 pairs of pliers at least because they do break.
Click to expand...

Thanks!!!!!
 
Robert Herndon said:
Question for you...

The speaker-like fabric under the Marshall script...how did you recover that section???
Click to expand...

That panel should be simply screwed into the edges you see on both ends. The tolex is just stapled to it. To get the logo off just stick something prong-like into the holes in the back of the panel that the logo goes into. Or you can accurately pry from the front where the holes are, judging from the back.

In your case you would just glue tolex on after you get the basket weave off.

You will want that chassis out of there to be able to do anything.
 
If you use the standard 3M type glue you are on like a 15 minute time clock to get the tolex all on.
It will then begin to dry. This includes razor accurate cuts with fingers full of glue that will nearly
rip your fingers off. It's like human fly trap glue.

Lol.

Just FYI.
 
Sapient said:
That panel should be simply screwed into the edges you see on both ends. The tolex is just stapled to it. To get the logo off just stick something prong-like into the holes in the back of the panel that the logo goes into. Or you can accurately pry from the front where the holes are, judging from the back.

In your case you would just glue tolex on after you get the basket weave off.

You will want that chassis out of there to be able to do anything.
Click to expand...

Thanks!!!!

I'm considering having Erik at Stagecraft recover it just for the reasons you described!!!!
 
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