Glue?

gasket

Ambassador of the Guitarded
Last February I acquired a few lengths of interesting looking cypress pine flooring and put them away to season. I intend building a body from said flooring. Time to ask what's been on my mind since Feb ... What kind of glue required to bond numerous pieces into a solid block? This "unknown" glue must hold timber together, fill any gaps and when machined and sanded look like clear casting resin.

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Because the timber is tongue & groove and will be laid in different directions I figure there's a strong chance a few small cavities will be found on surfaces after cut and sanding. I want the glue to fill any gaps and dry CLEAR. Will Titebond dry and look like glass?
 
Because the timber is tongue & groove and will be laid in different directions I figure there's a strong chance a few small cavities will be found on surfaces after cut and sanding. I want the glue to fill any gaps and dry CLEAR. Will Titebond dry and look like glass?
The way I address such cavities is to get sanding (saw) dust, preferably from the same piece, and mix it with the Titebond glue. If you use this mixture to fill in the gaps, it will be almost undetectable to the eye.
 
I figure there is a chance at least one of the many knots will become dislodged during machining and sanding. I'd like to fill any holes with clear similar to any lateral joints that can't be clamped fully together.
 
I’m wondering if you’ll end up having to do this in a two-step process. First, select a glue that will bond the pieces. Second, once that’s all done, apply a clear resin to fill the gaps and voids.

What I’m finding for glues so far (and my search is, by no means, exhaustive. So, continue to search on your own), is that the glues that dry clear aren’t necessarily gap-filling, as well. Plus, there is the whole question of how clear the clear-drying glues actually are.

Just a thought.
 
As Ray says, the Titebond is for putting them together. I reckon you should give them another six months before you do it though. For a finish, think about superglue. It is as hard as nails and comes up like a mirror.
 
I’m wondering if you’ll end up having to do this in a two-step process. First, select a glue that will bond the pieces. Second, once that’s all done, apply a clear resin to fill the gaps and voids.

That's a likely outcome BUT if something re my question is found all the better.
At this time I'm thinking I'll build two layers up and then cut a lot of timber away to save weight and produce a chambered body, then add the third layer.
I have a 12 string Tele kit on the bench just now and another 6 string kit arriving Monday so I'm in no hurry to get a third project started.
 
As Ray says, the Titebond is for putting them together. I reckon you should give them another six months before you do it though. For a finish, think about superglue. It is as hard as nails and comes up like a mirror.

Do you have any experience filling with superglue, does it shrink or crack?
I'm not pushing to get started and some months will pass before I do. I have the timber in a warm, dry and well ventilated place, not forcing but helping the process. Now thinking about projects in front of this I figure the timber will sit for at least a year from purchase to starting.
 
Regardless of how you proceed, I’m interested to see how you get on with the project.

I especially like the idea of using reclaimed wood for the body.

I'd like to say it's "reclaimed" but not so. Last Feb I spotted the "new" timber in a bundle, as these sticks were much darker and more knotted than usually used on Australian floors I got them for token payment. Normally our cypress floors look like this little job I put down for a friend last March.
EDIT, The part I put down is the small extension on far side of photo. then old and new were sanded to blend.

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I've finished a decorative wooden box this way, and it was great. Filling holes was just a part of the finishing process - flood it, in other words. Then a day to dry and sand and polish. But give this wood a month in the house at normal temperature before you start the build.

Just looked on Youtube and found this

 
Thanks Don, great vid.
EDIT, I can imagine the timber shown in post #1 with that hard smooth finish shown at the end of the vid :-)
 
I've finished a decorative wooden box this way, and it was great. Filling holes was just a part of the finishing process - flood it, in other words. Then a day to dry and sand and polish. But give this wood a month in the house at normal temperature before you start the build.

Just looked on Youtube and found this


That's quite impressive.

I wonder how it lasts over the years, meaning I wonder how well it resists shrinking and cracking.
 
Check out the Stu Mac website. It wouldn't be cheap, but they have the best stuff for the job. I check out the tools often, then usually buy cheap Chinese copies. The glues and stuff are what the professionals use.
 
Last February I acquired a few lengths of interesting looking cypress pine flooring and put them away to season. I intend building a body from said flooring. Time to ask what's been on my mind since Feb ... What kind of glue required to bond numerous pieces into a solid block? This "unknown" glue must hold timber together, fill any gaps and when machined and sanded look like clear casting resin.

View attachment 18503


Wood glue hahaha.
 
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