Ok, so no burned areas, and no visibly loose solder joints. De-dusted it and used De-Oxit 5 to clean the tube sockets, a Q-tip with D-5 into all the jacks and i also cleaned up a ton of rosin spatter.
The input jacks are suppose to be isolated from the chassis holes at where they are installed. But eventually all the input jacks are grounded to the chassis one way or another.Got a missing washer around one of the (4) front high/low jacks. Gonna head to Home Depot and source a visually acceptable replacement, rather than order up and wait...
Ditto!!!!!What's the word? Any progress yet? Have you started moving the wires around with a chopstick?
What's the word? Any progress yet? Have you started moving the wires around with a chopstick?
The input jacks are suppose to be isolated from the chassis holes at where they are installed. But eventually all the input jacks are grounded to the chassis one way or another.
Ditto!!!!!



Robert, check the resistance on that resistor at the end of the board by the diode. Is it 220k, 150k or something else?
Yeah, I wouldn't use the EL34B tubes in that amp. They don't generally agree with old school circuitry. Totally mess up the voltages.Just for kicks, i swapped in the old tubes and recorded 464VDC plate voltages...
View attachment 39313
The one at the end of the board by the presence pot.Which????
And while you are at it what is the resistance on those 2 chocolate brown resistors just right of the bias pot?
Yes! Those are 8.2k each on the 1968 schematic. 10k on the 1970 version.Chocolate brown with red/silver
8.7k individually 17.7 combined