Here's another.
This one uses a cam to adjust saddle height.
Babicz Full Contact Hardware - With "eCAM" Saddle Technology from Babicz - FCH 6-Point Z-Series Tremolo Narrow Spacing
You know you want it!
Fender Saddle Height Allen Screws:
- Thread starter Inspector #20
- Start date
Here's another.
This one uses a cam to adjust saddle height.
Babicz Full Contact Hardware - With "eCAM" Saddle Technology from Babicz - FCH 6-Point Z-Series Tremolo Narrow Spacing
You know you want it!
I do understand that. But, that's something I'd change, if it were me...which it isn't...so do what you want!
Anyhoo, my Strat has the modern two-point bridge with solid cast saddles. My son has a Strat with the 6-point bridge and bent steel saddles, like yours. Sometimes I play his guitar. Those protruding allen screws are really annoying. My bridge is much more comfortable to play.
What Chili says is exactly what I do with them.
Take em out, and grind the bottoms using the allen wrench to help hold them. Then chamfer the ground end a bit and reinstall.
Always best to take a little bit at a time, to keep from going too short.
Best to do it twice than get too short. Keep a water can nearby, they get hot fast.
Another way to do it without grinding is simply shim a little neck angle at the bass of the neck pocket.
Brass or wood is the best. Matchbook cardboard and business cards can compress.
With more neck angle the saddle screws can be jacked in more to compensate.
Take em out, and grind the bottoms using the allen wrench to help hold them. Then chamfer the ground end a bit and reinstall.
Always best to take a little bit at a time, to keep from going too short.
Best to do it twice than get too short. Keep a water can nearby, they get hot fast.
Another way to do it without grinding is simply shim a little neck angle at the bass of the neck pocket.
Brass or wood is the best. Matchbook cardboard and business cards can compress.
With more neck angle the saddle screws can be jacked in more to compensate.
This is Gospel JG. Fact.
A coarse wheel will sling em' across the room.
I worked 33 years at a papermill and learned this stuff first hand.
OP
This wasn't an issue until the fret level. It really made a big a action height difference.
I agree that tremolo you posted looks fantastic. I would run that with a locking nut like an OFR.
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chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
I talked to Robert, he has a good fastener supplier near him. I revised my grinder solution. My first suggestion would be to remove one screw and go to the fastener store and get shorter ones. That is a simple solution that would seem to take way less time and changes to his existing setup.
Another reason for this is, Let's say he ever got a new neck with taller frets, or refretted this one, he could always switch back to longer screws if needed.
Another reason for this is, Let's say he ever got a new neck with taller frets, or refretted this one, he could always switch back to longer screws if needed.
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They are a Din number 916 cup point set screw. I am pretty positive they are a metric size. I think a
2.6 X 8 millimeter long. That is the most common set screw design. I had to buy a large number of them for a MRI machine update. I found them at Metric and Multi Standards in Hawthorn New York.
I have the number at home I think? I'm in my hospital office for a short time. I will give more places and phone numbers. I bought like 6,000 but they will sell small amounts.
2.6 X 8 millimeter long. That is the most common set screw design. I had to buy a large number of them for a MRI machine update. I found them at Metric and Multi Standards in Hawthorn New York.
I have the number at home I think? I'm in my hospital office for a short time. I will give more places and phone numbers. I bought like 6,000 but they will sell small amounts.
OP