Fender Saddle Height Allen Screws:

Inspector #20

Inspector #20

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After the fret level, I was able to drop the action. Now the Allen's are too long and hitting my writer's palm.

Any idea what size & thread pitch these are???

This is a before shot - they are really sticking out now...

IMG_20170917_2301.jpg
 
If it were me, I might buy another 12 screws and use em as backups. Insert an allen wrench into the head and then wrap some tape around the wrench and screw to hold them together and then get my bench grinder out and grind each screw shorter.

These can then be inserted from the bottom of the saddle to catch a few threads to get it started, then use allen wrench to screw them in and they should be however short you need to make em to do the job and not stick out.
 
well ya you could,you think the Strat ones are bad sticking up,once i dialed in my 2 old school Teles that use the straight slot screw heads for the saddle they naw you up pretty good if your not carefull,I dug around and used all the shorter ones from some other brass barrels i had laying around but didnt have enough for the 2nd one,which because of the neck pocket or what ever they didnt stick up as high.No theres no neck pocket shims in either of them,no need
 
sometimes you can stick the allen wrench in the screw head and proceed to the grinder but be prepared for it to fly off lol,i used to do this when i worked at the paper mill but they had a endless supply of new ones right down the hallway.all shapes and sizes
 
smitty_p said:
I'd just get a different bridge/trem setup altogether.
Click to expand...

I've considered routing it. I have several new Gotoh/Floyd's in stock from my guitar making, but with all the big cracks in the body, and in the cavities, I am afraid to cut into it.

Look at 2 'O clock in this photo...

IMG_20170917_13390.jpg
 
Robert Herndon said:
I've considered routing it. I have several new Gotoh/Floyd's in stock from my guitar making,
Click to expand...

I don't mean route for a different setup. What I mean is to look into a different six point bridge option which is less likely to have protruding screws...something that will drop in.

Here's an idea:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and...tar/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VSVG_Vintage_Tremolo.html

The saddles are solid, instead of bent steel.

BTW, there are some who think the bent steel saddles contribute to the signature Strat quack.

I don't know how true that is, so I won't comment on it...

...but I've got you thinking now, don't I!!!
 
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smitty_p said:
I don't mean route for a different setup. What I mean is to look into a different six point bridge option which is less likely to have protruding screws...something that will drop in.

Here's an idea:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and...tar/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VSVG_Vintage_Tremolo.html

The saddles are solid, instead of bent steel.

BTW, there are some who think the bent steel saddles contribute to the signature Strat quack.

I don't know how true that is, so I won't comment on it...

...but I've got you thinking now, don't I!!!
Click to expand...


True!!!

I am trying to keep as many of the original parts as I can on this relic....but that is a very nice looking bridge!!!!

Here's the latest modifications....

RFI Shield.jpg

Bourns Pots.jpg

Repositioned Knobs.jpg

It's a little crowded in the back with the close-order controls, but I think it looks cleaner....
 
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The body routs and copper have evolved over the years, since I put the first few layers of Carvin shielding tape in it back in 1990....Here's how it looks today. I never did a "complete" neck humbucker route - I just cut enough out so the pickup would fit...

The ground wire, soldered to the tape in the main cavity, extends into the input jack route and joins the copper tape in there.

Copper.jpg
 
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