Fender 6 Screw Tremolo Divebomber Setup:

Sunday, I knocked out 5 Fender Stratocasters (3 USA models, 1 MIM and one Squire) with my 'Divebomber' setup.

New strings, new nut, relief, action, intonation and pickup adjustment...$200/each out the door.

To put that in perspective, down here, new strings and action/intonation adjustment is $85.00 out the door and that's pretty consistent in this area.

Add a new nut to the above 'basic setup' and you are paying $160.00 out the door, and you can't even use the tremolo after paying for that service.

Not just a fun day, but a profitable day.
 
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So, Robert... for doing a proper nut-cutting job, would there be a specific set / brand / type of saws (or other tool) that you would recommend as the best to do so?

Any saw that leaves a curved bottom slot profile is good. I personally use the files (they are tiny saws actually) from Stewie-Mac.

I add .004" to string gauge when cutting the slots, so a .046" string gets a .050" slot.

A good slot will have full string to nut contact at the leading edge of the nut for approximately 2/3rds of the nut's length, then the floor profile will begin to 'fall away' from the string as it nears the nut's trailing edge.

This effect is shown here on a Gibson nut:

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And some of the effect is visible here on one of my hand crafted brass Stratocaster nuts if you zoom in:

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Remember that string spacing cannot be a mathematical computation based on neck width. The string spacing will be dictated by tuning key position, so each string may be on a different center-to-center spacing in order to get a straight pull at the nut.

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spacing.jpg

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Key point to remember is tuning key holes will often need to be plugged and redrilled to get things right!!!
 
Here's an example of string spacing all over the place on a vintage Stratocaster. Note the 'D' and 'g' spread to the tuners, 'b' and 'e' pinched by the string tree and use of high-friction style string tree.

1954_Fender_Stratocaster_The_white_lady_0994_01.jpg

Here's a Squire Strat that needs the low 'E' plugged and redrilled to fix the string pull issue:

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Another USA Stratocaster made in Corona with strings shifted towards treble side.

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Strangely between the tuner location, string angle, nut etc my Godin with the standard whammy stays in perfect tune even with the low E taken fully slack plus pulling up bends. Different design from a Strat but I was shocked. So used to locking systems. I just put a lil silicone lube in the nut.
Oh behave!!
 
Strangely between the tuner location, string angle, nut etc my Godin with the standard whammy stays in perfect tune even with the low E taken fully slack plus pulling up bends. Different design from a Strat but I was shocked. So used to locking systems. I just put a lil silicone lube in the nut.
Oh behave!!

Sometimes, we see a guitar that will stay in tune from the hanger, but those are the exception rather than the rule, as is your guitar.

The worst non-locking tremolos I see are PRS, bar none.

Don't get me wrong, at $200/hour studio rate, I will only use a Floyd Rose for the ultimate in reliability, but I doubt you will find too many people who will whammy their stock, 6 screw tremolo (and send you a video of them doing it) to this kind of extreme and still have it return to pitch.

I'm constantly fixing the factory shortcomings...
 
Sometimes, we see a guitar that will stay in tune from the hanger, but those are the exception rather than the rule, as is your guitar.

The worst non-locking tremolos I see are PRS, bar none.

Don't get me wrong, at $200/hour studio rate, I will only use a Floyd Rose for the ultimate in reliability, but I doubt you will find too many people who will whammy their stock, 6 screw tremolo (and send you a video of them doing it) to this kind of extreme and still have it return to pitch.

I'm constantly fixing the factory shortcomings...
Van Halen 1 and 2!

I use the locking far more than that one too!
Good stuff!!
 
I thought so... Thank you kindly for your teachings, Robert! They're always insightful, straightforward and very much appreciated!

Now, in defense of the 3+3 design, if you are not using a tremolo, they seem to do fine if the slots are cut properly.

I've heard guys with Bigsby Vibratos using a device called The String Butler, that improves string pull through the nut, but I have never used one.

Was your question about a 3+3 with a vibrato???
 
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