Dreading Replacing Frets:

[chilipeppermaniac]

Robert, Practice on one of those Toothpick necks you replaced with your wide examples

 

[Inspector #20]

Robert, Practice on one of those Toothpick necks you replaced with your wide examples

Good idea

 

[jtcnj]

I still have to true the fretboard and refret the neck on my Jackson.
Still havent decided on fret wire size.

The 3 I have done were with a hammer. It worked out fine except I have a few ends that sprung up before the glue set, or didnt set all the way in the slot.
You cant see it but they catch the end of my wipe down cloth.

Same happens on a couple of my other guitars with factory installed frets.

I kinda like the hammer; its therapeutic.

 

[Inspector #20]

I still have to true the fretboard and refret the neck on my Jackson.
Still havent decided on fret wire size.

The 3 I have done were with a hammer. It worked out fine except I have a few ends that sprung up before the glue set, or didnt set all the way in the slot.
You cant see it but they catch the end of my wipe down cloth.

Same happens on a couple of my other guitars with factory installed frets.

I kinda like the hammer; its therapeutic.

Hammer will make the frets wavy or dented, which I see all the time on local refret jobs.

 

[SIx String Chef]

Hammer will make the frets wavy or dented, which I see all the time on local refret jobs.

So using a hammer to seat the fret (assuming the fret ends up sitting well along the slot) would still require a pass or two with the crowning file to remove those hammer marks?

 

[Inspector #20]

So using a hammer to seat the fret (assuming the fret ends up sitting well along the slot) would still require a pass or two with the crowning file to remove those hammer marks?

Depends..

A hard plastic mallet is less likely to deform the fret.

 

[jtcnj]

Judicious blows, brass faced hammer, no dents.
I beveled / rounded the edge of the hammer face to reduce the chances.

Either way you need to level and crown them.

 

[Inspector #20]

Judicious blows, brass faced hammer, no dents.
I beveled / rounded the edge of the hammer face to reduce the chances.

Either way you need to level and crown them.

I have everything needed to level and crown if neeeded.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

If you guys watch the video I posted, one of the particular tips shown that made a whole lot of sense to keep in mind is how not to get an incurable bow in the neck due to the barbed portions of the frets being too tight for the slots which will pull the neck too tight that even the truss rod adjusted fully will not keep it straight.

 

[flatrockmobile]

When using a hammer, which is the only way I've done it, like Robert said, use a plastic faced or hard rubber hammer. Hold the hammer in the normal way but lay your index finger along the top of the handle...instant dead blow, no bounce. Try it, you'll like it.

 

[Inspector #20]

I'm using this...

 

[Inspector #20]

To true the fretboard, I have wooden radius blocks, but most fretboard are fairly decent.

 

[jtcnj]

I have seen that video, or one that mentions the slot width vs tang thickness.

The caul is likely the better / more professional method - unless you have an installed set neck, or up to that point anyway.

 

[smitty_p]

View attachment 75614
I have a guitar or two that are about due for a refret. I've never done it before. Is it hard? Should I try on one of my cheaper less-played guitars?

I refretted my ‘74 SG a few years back. It’s really not all that tough. Just accumulate the proper tools and don’t rush it.

 

[smitty_p]

I have seen that video, or one that mentions the slot width vs tang thickness.

The caul is likely the better / more professional method - unless you have an installed set neck, or up to that point anyway.

I think I’d prefer the caul, too. But, when I refretted my guitar, I used a fretting hammer with a plastic face. If you use very gentle taps, it works very well. I never had any denting caused by the tapping of the hammer. Besides, you‘re still gonna level and dress the frets, anyway.

But, if I was going to do it again, I’d probably get a caul.

 

[smitty_p]

Depends..

A hard plastic mallet is less likely to deform the fret.

Here’s a pic of the fretting hammer I used. I only used the orange plastic face.

I had no denting issues. I also made sure my fret slots were clean before tapping in the frets, so using excessive force wouldn’t be necessary. That said, I do think I’d prefer using a caul.

This brings up another point, if you do a fretboard leveling after you remove the frets, make sure the slots are still deep enough for the fret tang. Otherwise, depending on how much material is removed, the fret tang may bottom-out before the fret is seated against the fretboard. I also bought a fretting saw to make my slots deeper, if necessary

At any rate, it worked fine for me.

 

[Inspector #20]

Here’s a pic of the fretting hammer I used. I only used the orange plastic face.

I had no denting issues. I also made sure my fret slots were clean before tapping in the frets, so using excessive force wouldn’t be necessary. That said, I do think I’d prefer using a caul.

This brings up another point, if you do a fretboard leveling after you remove the frets, make sure the slots are still deep enough for the fret tang. Otherwise, depending on how much material is removed, the fret tang may bottom-out before the fret is seated against the fretboard. I also bought a fretting saw to make my slots deeper, if necessary

At any rate, it worked fine for me.


View attachment 75662

Good points on fret slot depth.

My main issue is my set-neck guitars - the Les Paul I got from Adrian and the Schecter. Anything with a bolt-on neck, I would simply replace with a Warmoth.

 

[Inspector #20]

Here’s a pic of the fretting hammer I used. I only used the orange plastic face.

I had no denting issues. I also made sure my fret slots were clean before tapping in the frets, so using excessive force wouldn’t be necessary. That said, I do think I’d prefer using a caul.

This brings up another point, if you do a fretboard leveling after you remove the frets, make sure the slots are still deep enough for the fret tang. Otherwise, depending on how much material is removed, the fret tang may bottom-out before the fret is seated against the fretboard. I also bought a fretting saw to make my slots deeper, if necessary

At any rate, it worked fine for me.


View attachment 75662

Part of me thinks I should just sell the Schecter rather than go through the re-fretting process.

 

[smitty_p]

Part of me thinks I should just sell the Schecter rather than go through the re-fretting process.

I guess that’s a decision you have to make. To me, that seems to be a little extreme, but I can certainly understand the lack of time and desire to do it. Maybe, you could pay another luthier to do all but the actual fret leveling and dressing.

 

[Inspector #20]

I guess that’s a decision you have to make. To me, that seems to be a little extreme, but I can certainly understand the lack of time and desire to do it. Maybe, you could pay another luthier to do all but the actual fret leveling and dressing.

I have an old Hohner acoustic...a HW400N I think. The frets used to work loose and had to be pressed back down and finally, a couple fell out. I pulled the frets out of it 20 years ago.

Maybe I will start on that one and see how it goes.