Bridge height

gasket

gasket

Ambassador of the Guitarded
Have I missed something?
This 335 clone, being reworked is still too high.
Got it down by recessing the posts but not enough. The bridge is now on the body and still too high.
Can only see two options, one recess the guitar top, or two file the bridge bottom. Will have a go at the bridge if no other ideas are presented.
Oh, a third idea is file under each of six bridge pieces but that would make the adjusting screws point downward ???
Help!

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hhhmmmmmmmmm

Many options ....................personally I would try thinning the bridge before I cut into the guitar---- bridge is easily replaced--- the wood on the top of the guitar---is not----
 
Relieve the bottom of the bridge. It need not be visible.
Check this thread to see if it's an option for you.
http://www.thetonerooms.com/threads/the-joy-of-aftermarket-parts.99/

As I see it your only option is to take some material off that bridge bottom or a shorter bridge.
Level that raised area with the rest of the bottom.
Should grind off pretty easy. File the edges to deburr it.
 
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JohnnyGoo said:
must have a shallow neck angle.
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The issue was to a great degree my doing.
It started it's life with me like this ...

3.JPG

That is a 335 clone 12 string kit guitar.
It turned out OK for a first time assembly, but when gluing and clamping down the neck it was all over the shop depending on clamp placement.
The joint is actually OK, this photo shows a gap, it's a shadow, really nice and tight.

20161231_181312_001.jpg

I'm now converting to six string and upgrading what is a reasonable bit of timber, let down by it's screw on bits.
Six string conversion at minimal cost from original supplier (PitBull Guitars).
Duncan pickups from Dave "Hackmaster".
Rather than building a new harness on new pots I'm looking at a 920D ready assembled with push pull.
And last will be a re-style headstock.
 
DonP said:
What glue did you use in the neck joint. Is there any chance of getting it apart again?
Click to expand...

Not a chance!
I've seen this stuff used in a commercial application when the carpenter wanted to re position a glued 4 X 4. After 20 min the 4 X 4 ripped apart but the joint held firm.

It'll be OK, I'm new to most of these little obstacles but once overcome I won't make the same mistake again.
They say "First time it's a mistake, second time it's stupidity" LOL.

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Looking at the bridge, I'd say the place to tackle is the saddles. They are a lot taller than they really need to be - you could take several mm off them with no trouble. Probably a better start than weakening the bottom of the bridge.
 
gasket said:
I'm now converting to six string and upgrading what is a reasonable bit of timber, let down by it's screw on bits.
Six string conversion at minimal cost from original supplier (PitBull Guitars).
Duncan pickups from Dave "Hackmaster".
Rather than building a new harness on new pots I'm looking at a 920D ready assembled with push pull.
And last will be a re-style headstock.
Click to expand...


I was seriously looking at a Pitbull kit, but after this, I don't think I'll be going down that road anytime soon... :(
 
Alex_SG said:
I was seriously looking at a Pitbull kit, but after this, I don't think I'll be going down that road anytime soon... :(
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Don't be turned off by MY mistake, it's only a small problem.
Had I followed some of the threads on the PB forum more closely it would have been a 100% success instead of the 95% and now on it's way to 100%.
I highly recommend Adam, his product and the team at PitBull.
I WILL DEAL WITH THEM AGAIN WITH CONFIDENCE.

EDIT. When I spoke with Adam asking about parts to change from gold 12 string to chrome 6 string he gave me the parts for free, I only had to purchase his bone nut. Now that's good customer service. BTW I like the idea of a cobbled together guitar :-)
 
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DonP said:
Looking at the bridge, I'd say the place to tackle is the saddles. They are a lot taller than they really need to be - you could take several mm off them with no trouble. Probably a better start than weakening the bottom of the bridge.
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting rework the V on the six individual pieces similar to re-cutting a nut?
 
Alex_SG said:
I was seriously looking at a Pitbull kit, but after this, I don't think I'll be going down that road anytime soon... :(
Click to expand...
This is a Pitbull
knobs.jpg
Kraken1.jpg
kraken3.jpg


Good kit--- the pups and electrics where.......lets say "basic" and I replaced the stock (music man style) tailpiece with a real Rickenbacker Tailpiece........did an "aging" to the whole thing .....and boom......one chocolate tasty bassy, Matey. ;)
 

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So what actually happed there with the neck angle ??? im not following the all over the shop thing.it get clamped wrong or was angle off a hair ? ive built 3 precision guitar kit slab top JRs and all 3 the neck angle is perfect in relation to the bridge heigth.i think they use 2 degrees,maybe 3 but im thinkin 2.now your kit is a arch top so it prolly use a hair more angle.
 
and by the way im now pro wood worker and i just used a couple nice Irwin clamps when glueing the necks in.the neck pockets on the precision kits are tight and they only fit in there one way kinda deal.
 
^^^ Yeah, what he said.
Then you can align the strings perfectly over the polepieces, and cut new slots.
Just make sure you keep the radius of the neck. Don't grind the saddles all flat even, keep em stepped.
 
JohnnyGoo said:
So what actually happed there with the neck angle ??? im not following the all over the shop thing.it get clamped wrong or was angle off a hair ?
Click to expand...

I'm reasonably sure I used my heavy handed metal working background rather than a more gentle touch required with timber.
Read into that, I clamped way too firmly and a little too close to the body ... forcibly changing the design by a degree or two.
It's going to be a good thing, just requiring a little extra work to get there.
 
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