Dirty AC Power: Getting It Out of Your (Audio/Video) System
Article By Roger Sheker, Chief Engineer @ Audience
For most readers of Enjoy the Music.com, it's no secret that the AC power coming out of your wall outlet is shockingly (pun intended) "dirty." In a perfect world, the AC power in your house should look like a perfectly smooth undistorted sine wave (when viewed on an oscilloscope). In reality, the AC can be corrupted with noise and distortion (dirty AC power looks pretty jagged and ugly on a scope). This noise can be heard as grain, "haze" and a general smearing or foreshortening of the sound field/stage, or can be seen as a reduction of the sharpness, color accuracy and detail of your video image. (Note: an audible 60-cycle hum or 120-cycle buzz in the system is the result of a grounding problem, which is not related to power line conditioning, and is a whole other subject that could be addressed in a separate article.)
The power supplies in your audio/video components are supposed to block all that AC power noise, right? Well, not always. Some components do a better job at filtering this grunge than others. In addition, the voltage coming out of your wall socket can vary widely from the 120/240 Volts you're supposed to be getting (supply voltages can vary in other countries).
How can this AC power corruption be dealt with for us to achieve optimum audio/video system performance?
First and foremost: never take anything for granted. Assume nothing in your system is optimum and go on from there. For instance, when was the last time you cleaned all of your power connections? Connections should be cleaned at regular intervals, not ignored and forgotten. There are a host of other sources of AC power gremlins you might not be aware of. NOTE, never clean a live connector, unplug everything before starting.
For example: have you changed over to the new low-power florescent bulbs? These lights use a switching circuit with little filtering, and they can be a serious noise source. The older high-power fluorescents are generally more benign as they don't have noisy switching circuits.
Standard lamp dimmers can be very noisy (to the point of causing a very audible buzz through an audio system), and at the least should be either turned off or turned all the way up when listening or viewing.
You should turn off or unplug all of your unused "wall warts" (those ubiquitous black plastic AC power adapters) when listening to your system, or check to see that they're quiet and not affecting your system. These little trouble makers can be checked for noise radiation with an AM portable radio tuned off station. You might be surprised at how bad some of them are!
Have you upgraded/replaced your system's AC power outlets? This can make a surprising difference. In the old days of audiophillia, many enthusiasts swapped their standard outlets for hospital-grade outlets; this is still a viable option. These days, a number of aftermarket AC outlets are available and one can't assume that because a product is expensive it is better. We have found that some of the expensive AC outlets color the sound and do more harm than good. Our recommendation is the Hubble hospital grade outlets with solid unplated brass pins. Cryogenically treating also gives a further improvement and is recommended.
Are all of your high frequency wireless transmitters, such as those found in all wireless products like portable phones, cell phones, wireless routers, etc. turned off or at least out of the room? These products can be a serious noise source.
The above factors are just some of the most common and simple things to consider when cleaning up your AC power.
A more costly and complex way of optimizing your audio/video system's power would be to install a dedicated AC power circuit just to power it. This dedicated circuit should be rated at 20 Amperes or more and overbuilt as if it were going to be used for 30 Amperes. This expense is to be considered as an investment in sonic truth as this weak link will always be a problem otherwise. For this, three leg, stranded 10 AWG, shielded and UL rated for in-wall applications is recommended as well as the best dedicated and house mains breakers you can find. Again, cryogenic treatment is recommended for the wire.
After all of these considerations are addressed, the final step in optimizing your audio/video system AC power is to employ quality power conditioning for all of your audio components. This is such a complex and misunderstood subject that I have included some salient points here.
Currently in common use, there are five basic types of AC power conditioning products. They may be employed singularly or in various combinations:
Pure passive
Active regulation
Isolation
Power factor correction
DC blocking shunt
A pure passive power conditioning design is an implementation of various types of passive noise filtering such as inductors and capacitors of varying quality and size. The best of this type of conditioning will have independent filtering for each outlet with the filtering covering a broad band of frequencies. The very best of this type will also pay particular attention to having very low DC resistance from input to output insuring full peak power delivery. This is particularly important for preserving system dynamics. If not properly designed, a loss of sonic dynamics can occur due to the fact that most power amps draw far higher currents at dynamic peaks than the average value. DC resistance in the power circuit will cause a voltage drop, compressing this peak power draw leading directly to compression of musical dynamics.
As a class, AC power conditioners providing active regulation will be either partial correction/replacement, or full regeneration of the AC power. Active regulation of necessity will also include some of the filtering found in passive units, thus providing some degree of input/output filtering and isolation.
Article By Roger Sheker, Chief Engineer @ Audience
For most readers of Enjoy the Music.com, it's no secret that the AC power coming out of your wall outlet is shockingly (pun intended) "dirty." In a perfect world, the AC power in your house should look like a perfectly smooth undistorted sine wave (when viewed on an oscilloscope). In reality, the AC can be corrupted with noise and distortion (dirty AC power looks pretty jagged and ugly on a scope). This noise can be heard as grain, "haze" and a general smearing or foreshortening of the sound field/stage, or can be seen as a reduction of the sharpness, color accuracy and detail of your video image. (Note: an audible 60-cycle hum or 120-cycle buzz in the system is the result of a grounding problem, which is not related to power line conditioning, and is a whole other subject that could be addressed in a separate article.)
The power supplies in your audio/video components are supposed to block all that AC power noise, right? Well, not always. Some components do a better job at filtering this grunge than others. In addition, the voltage coming out of your wall socket can vary widely from the 120/240 Volts you're supposed to be getting (supply voltages can vary in other countries).
How can this AC power corruption be dealt with for us to achieve optimum audio/video system performance?
First and foremost: never take anything for granted. Assume nothing in your system is optimum and go on from there. For instance, when was the last time you cleaned all of your power connections? Connections should be cleaned at regular intervals, not ignored and forgotten. There are a host of other sources of AC power gremlins you might not be aware of. NOTE, never clean a live connector, unplug everything before starting.
For example: have you changed over to the new low-power florescent bulbs? These lights use a switching circuit with little filtering, and they can be a serious noise source. The older high-power fluorescents are generally more benign as they don't have noisy switching circuits.
Standard lamp dimmers can be very noisy (to the point of causing a very audible buzz through an audio system), and at the least should be either turned off or turned all the way up when listening or viewing.
You should turn off or unplug all of your unused "wall warts" (those ubiquitous black plastic AC power adapters) when listening to your system, or check to see that they're quiet and not affecting your system. These little trouble makers can be checked for noise radiation with an AM portable radio tuned off station. You might be surprised at how bad some of them are!
Have you upgraded/replaced your system's AC power outlets? This can make a surprising difference. In the old days of audiophillia, many enthusiasts swapped their standard outlets for hospital-grade outlets; this is still a viable option. These days, a number of aftermarket AC outlets are available and one can't assume that because a product is expensive it is better. We have found that some of the expensive AC outlets color the sound and do more harm than good. Our recommendation is the Hubble hospital grade outlets with solid unplated brass pins. Cryogenically treating also gives a further improvement and is recommended.
Are all of your high frequency wireless transmitters, such as those found in all wireless products like portable phones, cell phones, wireless routers, etc. turned off or at least out of the room? These products can be a serious noise source.
The above factors are just some of the most common and simple things to consider when cleaning up your AC power.
A more costly and complex way of optimizing your audio/video system's power would be to install a dedicated AC power circuit just to power it. This dedicated circuit should be rated at 20 Amperes or more and overbuilt as if it were going to be used for 30 Amperes. This expense is to be considered as an investment in sonic truth as this weak link will always be a problem otherwise. For this, three leg, stranded 10 AWG, shielded and UL rated for in-wall applications is recommended as well as the best dedicated and house mains breakers you can find. Again, cryogenic treatment is recommended for the wire.
After all of these considerations are addressed, the final step in optimizing your audio/video system AC power is to employ quality power conditioning for all of your audio components. This is such a complex and misunderstood subject that I have included some salient points here.
Currently in common use, there are five basic types of AC power conditioning products. They may be employed singularly or in various combinations:
A pure passive power conditioning design is an implementation of various types of passive noise filtering such as inductors and capacitors of varying quality and size. The best of this type of conditioning will have independent filtering for each outlet with the filtering covering a broad band of frequencies. The very best of this type will also pay particular attention to having very low DC resistance from input to output insuring full peak power delivery. This is particularly important for preserving system dynamics. If not properly designed, a loss of sonic dynamics can occur due to the fact that most power amps draw far higher currents at dynamic peaks than the average value. DC resistance in the power circuit will cause a voltage drop, compressing this peak power draw leading directly to compression of musical dynamics.
As a class, AC power conditioners providing active regulation will be either partial correction/replacement, or full regeneration of the AC power. Active regulation of necessity will also include some of the filtering found in passive units, thus providing some degree of input/output filtering and isolation.