AMS--Soldering 101 class--the swamp deepens........

Can AMS teach eSGEe to solder?

  • BUWAHAHAHAHAHAHA, no....just......no

    Votes: 3 10.7%

  • Maybe, but its gonna hurt

    Votes: 9 32.1%

  • why when its easier to buy Hackmaster or Drumoid sammiches and have them do it?

    Votes: 7 25.0%

  • duct tape is the new solder

    Votes: 3 10.7%

  • Hey BRIAN look eSGEe can SOLDER!

    Votes: 4 14.3%

  • teach the giraffe to solder its faster

    Votes: 8 28.6%
  • Total voters
    28
Don O said:
I was gonna say he’s the guy that owns the giraffe. :pound-hand: Jeez, Chili, what are you doing up this late ...
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Giraffes are cool. Can I pet the Giraffe?
I would like to make friends with Giraffes.
Are Giraffes indigenous to Florida? Or did they migrate?

Giraffes have 3 horns. Are these horns capable of gripping a soldering iron?
Which is more cute? A Giraffe or a Duckie?

1593004905080.png
 
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eSGEe said:
yeah ... that looks .......like......a PASS thanks though ;)
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Lesson 3 Cleaning

Cleaning is a major part of soldering, because if the surfaces are not clean the solder won't work.
And this is probably why most soldering fails.

Major Part of Soldering --- All they needed to do was clean, and the solder would work with no problem.

A. Clean soldering iron tip (see above post)
B. Clean legs of components - metal cannot be oxidized.
C. Clean surface of board, or terminal (turret) which will be soldered.

How do you clean?
Most cleaning of component legs - I use Scotch bright pads. Just a little piece of Scotch Bright to polish the oxide off of the metal leg.

Summery:
If you don't clean ---your soldering won't work.
Those of you who decided that you don't need to clean anything; that's why you failed.
 
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Amp Mad Scientist said:
Lesson 3 Cleaning

Cleaning is a major part of soldering, because if the surfaces are not clean the solder won't work.
And this is probably why most soldering fails.

Major Part of Soldering --- All they needed to do was clean, and the solder would work with no problem.

A. Clean soldering iron tip (see above post)
B. Clean legs of components - metal cannot be oxidized.
C. Clean surface of board, or terminal (turret) which will be soldered.

How do you clean?
Most cleaning of component legs - I use Scotch bright pads. Just a little piece of Scotch Bright to polish the oxide off of the metal leg.

Summery:
If you don't clean ---your soldering won't work.
Those of you who decided that you don't need to clean anything; that's why you failed.
Click to expand...
Cleaning component leads and lugs is very important. Using a piece of material like Scotch brite is a very nice tip. I've been using a tiny short-wired brush.
 
syscokid said:
Cleaning component leads and lugs is very important. Using a piece of material like Scotch brite is a very nice tip. I've been using a tiny short-wired brush.
Click to expand...

It's like 15 seconds of cleaning, makes the difference between success and failure.

1593005710862.png Scotch Bright - they can buy it at the grocery store, or the hardware store. It's cheap.

When I was growing up, there was nobody to teach me this stuff.
I had to figure it out on my own, by trail and error.
 
eSGEe said:
this is the evil tool of the bane of mans existence.....that I have -- (thanks Chili) and actually USED recently to swap pickups in Firebird to MUCH happiness and satisfaction of myself and Don O ;)
The Giraffe was mildly impressed as well.

He even has his own line of schwag
View attachment 45203
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The Giraffe wires guitars now?
You seem to have some very talented mammals.
 
eSGEe said:
this is the evil tool of the bane of mans existence.....that I have -- (thanks Chili) and actually USED recently to swap pickups in Firebird to MUCH happiness and satisfaction of myself and Don O
Click to expand...

You forgot the happiness for me too, ESGEEEEraffe.. I was so proud of you.
Ya see, I was once in your shoes in a similar arena. Amp diagnosis and repair. While my skills aren't quite up to being like riding a bike soldering or even reading resistor values, schematics etc, I was encouraged by none other than one of our former members here as he expressed confidence I COULD LEARN to fix my own amp. Having taken his faith in me and making it my own, I began to take the baby steps needed to fix amps.
Studying and asking questions, learning to read amp schematics and figuring out specs and what the components do, not only helped me fix amps, but when our furnace acted up, I was able to fix that too. My newly learned electronics/amp knowledge helped me diagnose the problem to a bad SOLDER connection on the control board. I was getting the expected readings and currents to parts like the inducer, igniter, blower etc, yet the thing would try to ignite and sometimes do so and other times cut off prematurely. It turns out where the buss bar the thermostat wires connected to, could either make the furnace work as it should or shut off when it should be firing up instead. I discovered if I wiggled or held it just so, I could make the furnace work 100%, or if I let go or wiggled it, the failure would occur.

SO, as you can see. not only was electronics understanding important, but SOLDERING was. All it needed to fix the issue, was to re-solder the connections tight. Much like my JMP 50 watt Marshall fooled even a pro tech to thinking it was a transformer, or like when I had the amp running 100% with Ivan and DonP's help, and yet the potential to fail at the worst time and in the worst way could happen at any time. AND IT DID happen. I could turn amp on, plug guitar in, take off standby and strum away and hear the guitar, then suddenly the signal would fizzle out and go quiet, despite the amp still running. A bad electrical connection was the culprit. LOOSE female to male connections in the OHMS selector switch was causing the amp to run and work, but then suddenly I would get no sound from the guitar. Self doubt could have defeated me but it didn't. Having gotten all good readings from the Trans's, Caps, Etc etc, I referred back to info I had learned online. Chop Stick probing tests. Amp on, guitar and speaker plugged in, it was time to see if I could touch something inside or out that would make a sound of some sort. After a bit, it happened, my chopstick wiggled one terminal on the selector and glorious crackling occurred. I manually manipulated the removable plug in selector cap, and the amp came to life. In the end, I disassembled the ohms selector and the voltage selectors to tighten up the tubular ferrules inside and thus would make proper and tight and reliable connections. The amp has not failed in over 3 years since.

Bottom line is, where once I couldn't ever imagine learning enough to understand how an amp ( or Furnace) works, I even surprised myself and now have knowledge and skills that will last a lifetime. This is also why I was so happy Adrian fixed his Firebird with the new soldering iron I sent for him. I now am the one who has confidence he can learn and can turn a once dreaded experience into a victory and skill to last him a lifetime.
 
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