Amp has developed a problem :(

Dave Sloven said:
So F5 is the lubricant spray like CRC 2.26? That might be what I need to use on my Rage 158
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From what I have read - pots need the right type of cleaner with the right type of lubricant; very important to NOT use regular electronics cleaner.

The Deoxit F5 / F Series Fader is supposed to be the "right stuff".
I too looked for cheaper or local equivalents but in the end bought the Deoxit F5.

I have several scratchy pots that I just havent time to disassemble to get at and give 'em what for.

DeoxIT® Fader F-Series
 
i have / had that TV tuner cleaner, used in on audio / stereo controls over the years.

It pained my greatly to spend the $18 on a small spray can on the Deoxit F5.
It should last a plenty long time as long as the propellant in the can lasts as well.
 
I ordered some of the F5 to use on my 6534+ ... not cheap, almost $50 a can!

I will experiment with the 2.26 on my Rage 158

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I was just reading the difference between the DeoxIT D-Series and the DeoxIT Fader F-Series.

The D-Series is a contact cleaner with 20% active cleaner in the solution.

The Fader F-Series is just a lubricant with no active cleaner.

A potentiometer's lubricant is suppose to be on the back side of the pot, between the casing and the back side of the assembly that has the shaft secured to it. "Scratchiness" comes from the area where the carbon track meets the little wipers of the front side of the assembly that secures the shaft. The carbon track and wipers are not supposed to have lubricant. Any lubricant on these areas will attract dust and dirt and eventually become scratchy again.

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With this type of opening on the pot, it looks like you can get a cleaning solution in the carbon track to wiper area:
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With this type of opening, it looks like a good spot for some lubricant:
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6. Which DeoxIT® product do I Use:

Use DeoxIT® Fader F-Series to lubricate and protect conductive plastic and carbon-based controls.

Use DeoxIT® D-Series contact cleaner on surfaces that have been in service or have visual signs of oxidation. Contains 20% active cleaner.

Use DeoxIT® Gold G-Series conditioner on new surfaces, and gold plated surfaces. Ideal for preventing dendrite/fretting corrosion. Protects both surface and base metals. Ideal for critical applications. Contains >1% active cleaner.

Use DeoxIT® Shield S-Series to protect surfaces from severe environments (humidity, salts, pollutants, sulfur, etc.). Use on clean surface. Contains 0% active cleaner.
 
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I should buy all of them! Let's see, a cabinet full of all the different varieties of Deoxit, or another guitar?

Seriously though my last purchase from this company was $100 for a Moog expression pedal, and this can of Deoxit is half that. Most expensive aerosol I've ever bought.
 
Cleaning a pot is my first step. What tube is in V1 ? It most likely is 12AX7 if it is not tell tell me please. I have had this problem on a few different amp over time. The 12AT7 is about 60% of the gain of a 12AX7 and coming down a few steps fixed that problem for me.
Pot cleaning only put off replacing the pot. Dirt in the wiper wears pots out very fast, cleaning them is a great part of an amp service. Cleaning them is not a repair but is like putting lipstick on a corpse.
 
kevinpaul said:
Cleaning a pot is my first step. What tube is in V1 ? It most likely is 12AX7 if it is not tell tell me please. I have had this problem on a few different amp over time. The 12AT7 is about 60% of the gain of a 12AX7 and coming down a few steps fixed that problem for me.
Pot cleaning only put off replacing the pot. Dirt in the wiper wears pots out very fast, cleaning them is a great part of an amp service. Cleaning them is not a repair but is like putting lipstick on a corpse.
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Hmmmm....like Cold Ethel???
 
kevinpaul said:
Cleaning a pot is my first step. What tube is in V1 ? It most likely is 12AX7 if it is not tell tell me please. I have had this problem on a few different amp over time. The 12AT7 is about 60% of the gain of a 12AX7 and coming down a few steps fixed that problem for me.
Pot cleaning only put off replacing the pot. Dirt in the wiper wears pots out very fast, cleaning them is a great part of an amp service. Cleaning them is not a repair but is like putting lipstick on a corpse.
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Just a few months ago, I got fed up with a scratchy tone pot on one of my guitars. The problem has existed for years on this one. Contact cleaner never helped. A bunch of back and forth rotations of the pot helped to subdue some of the scratchiness, but a week later it was all back in its full glory.

Solution: I disassembled the pot and discovered that the area where the carbon track and wipers reside, was covered in.... LUBRICANT! Very dirty lubricant!! I wiped some of the greasy mess off with a finger, and it was practically black.

I gently degreased and cleaned all the parts and applied some fresh white lithium grease to the proper area. Now, all is good in syscokid-land.
 
syscokid said:
Just a few months ago, I got fed up with a scratchy tone pot on one of my guitars. The problem has existed for years on this one. Contact cleaner never helped. A bunch of back and forth rotations of the pot helped to subdue some of the scratchiness, but a week later it was all back in its full glory.

Solution: I disassembled the pot and discovered that the area where the carbon track and wipers reside, was covered in.... LUBRICANT! Very dirty lubricant!! I wiped some of the greasy mess off with a finger, and it was practically black.

I gently degreased and cleaned all the parts and applied some fresh white lithium grease to the proper area. Now, all is good in syscokid-land.
Click to expand...

I replace the pot and the reason is I always break off the little tabs. It is more satisfying to repair them if possible.
 
Automotive brake and electric cleaner is not the way to go. It is very toxic to many materials. Spray some into a styrofoam cup. A lot of these products will eat right through it.
 
kevinpaul said:
I replace the pot and the reason is I always break off the little tabs. It is more satisfying to repair them if possible.
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Satisfying: Yes. But can you imagine making a living on cleaning pots?
"I just cleaned your old $4 pot. That'll be $25, thank you... :sneaky:"

kevinpaul said:
Automotive brake and electric cleaner is not the way to go. It is very toxic to many materials. Spray some into a styrofoam cup. A lot of these products will eat right through it.
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It's a good thing those pots ain't made of styrofoam... :run:
 
syscokid said:
Satisfying: Yes. But can you imagine making a living on cleaning pots?
"I just cleaned your old $4 pot. That'll be $25, thank you... :sneaky:"


It's a good thing those pots ain't made of styrofoam... :run:
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That is only on the PRS Amps. Some stuff in amps resolve with the ever cheap stuff they use.
Thank you for clearing my pots, since you have the amp I have a list! The list part makes me so tired of people.
 
The above posts are reasons why I mentioned to be careful with the product substitutions, either between Deoxit brands or substituting CRC or others.

I have used CRC products for decades.
The marine electronics cleaner is top notch.
Their degreaser solvent is great too.

Some cleaners are harmful, some good ol goto like WD40 leave a residue which attracts every kind of contaminant.
 
Yeah we pay a lot more for everything here in Australia, if it comes from the USA. Postage. Now our government charges foreign companies a 10% GST even on items under $1000.

For example, look at this.

CAIG DeoxIT Vacuum Tube Survival Kit - Great Gift for Your Tube Enthusiast! 697429022074 | eBay


US $33.95 (Approximately AU $46.04) +
Postage: US $25.50 (approx. AU $34.58) USPS First Class Mail International (3 weeks!)
then factor in the spread charged by Paypal

So only AU$85 roughly for this kit and you have to wait three weeks for it
 
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