Alignment Rant:

Inspector #20

Ambassador of Tone
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For years I've seen odd tire wear and its always blamed on worn out parts, even if your front end is brand new.

Alignment is big business. Here's why its such a racket...

The factory alignment specs are so wide that you can literally see a difference between the left and right front wheel and the settings are still "within spec."

The shop throws the alignment equipment on the car and pushes print. That's $129.99 x 15-20 cars a day. That's it 90% of the time, because of how wide the specs are.

Oh, and the before and after printout??? That can be edited before you print. No kidding...

And so what if your tires wear...most shops who do alignment also sell tires...

So, on my Mustang, i got tired of asking alignment questions and getting the default answer of "its in spec."

Alignment specs are very wide on the S197 Mustang - and even wider on some other cars and trucks. The camber spec is 3/4° positive to 3/4° negative and the toe is .010° + or - .020°, which works out to be around .040" total + or - .090".

What this means is, if the left front tire is toed in to .040" and the right front is toed out to .050" the alignment is "within spec," but i guarantee you will have outside (and/or inside) edge tire wear.

I got tired of crappy alignment that was giving me odd tire wear. Every question was answered with "it's in spec."

We always did our own alignments and we always used zero toe in or 'dead-zero' if you prefer. I prefer this setting for daily driving.

I broke out some old alignment tools from my racing days and did it myself....and the car drives better than ever...perfect directional stability over irregular road surfaces too...

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damn Robert, once again a very indepth tutorial. With pictures.
Well done and great information.
Thanks.

Thanks, Man...i had to stop and do some much needed maintenance.

I been getting outside edge tire wear only on left front. Kept getting told alignment was "in spec." Everything in the front end is new and less than a year old...and its all Moog with grease zerks and Genuine Motorcraft stuff...no cheapo "white box" stuff here.

Turns out all of the toe in - around .060" - was on the left front. The right front tire was zero and looked brand new!!!
 
When I had my race car I had a good relationship with a shop that specialized in race cars. They would set the alignment exactly to my specs. I also used my own measurements like you to make sure nothing had changed after a race.

What kind of race car did you have.? Here's a picture of mine.
View attachment 35276
We had several 1/4 mile dirt track cars and several drag cars as well, with the family restoration business plastered on them. I have few photos of those these days as they were casualties of divorce....
 
We had several 1/4 mile dirt track cars and several drag cars as well, with the family restoration business plastered on them. I have few photos of those these days as they were casualties of divorce....
Post what you have :) The picture I posted is just after I bought the car. The red sticker on the front spoiler denotes a rookie. It looked much different after I'd had it a coupe of years but I can't find any pictures of later iterations. I replaced the whole front body with super lightweight fibreglass panels. The only metal was the roof and door pillars. I had to keep that to meet the GT4 class at the time. Lots of fun but lots of money as well. I was eventually involved in a crash that twisted the car so it needed major work. I decided that I could no longer afford racing. By that time I had learned that in racing money wins. Whoever had the most money had the fastest car. There was little the driver could do to alter the situation. Even if you were the better driver someone with more money would build a faster car and beat you.
 
Here's the old shop logo....

View attachment 35281
Robert, I just keep getting a kick out of our somewhat similar history. I worked for Tuned Port Induction Specialties/Cottrell Racing Engines for many years. We ran a World Challenge Camaro for over a decade. We ended up building engines for Leighton Reese when he got into the World Challenge series. I could never understand how they picked their engine inspectors. The engines had to be sealed after inspection in the shop. They supplied us with numbered cup washers that you would fill with epoxy once the bolts were torqued on the valve covers and all the other tin. They never figured out we could put a hose clamp around the cups after the fact and spin them off with a larger open end wrench. Of course nobody cheats in racing.
 
Robert, I just keep getting a kick out of our somewhat similar history. I worked for Tuned Port Induction Specialties/Cottrell Racing Engines for many years. We ran a World Challenge Camaro for over a decade. We ended up building engines for Leighton Reese when he got into the World Challenge series. I could never understand how they picked their engine inspectors. The engines had to be sealed after inspection in the shop. They supplied us with numbered cup washers that you would fill with epoxy once the bolts were torqued on the valve covers and all the other tin. They never figured out we could put a hose clamp around the cups after the fact and spin them off with a larger open end wrench. Of course nobody cheats in racing.

When we had a stock car, 355 CID was the limit and guys were cheating with 377's and 383's. We put a 3.100" crank in a 400 black and created a 317 CID.

With an 8:14 final - and hitting 8,600 rpm on the straights - we destroyed the bigger, 'cheater' V8's and took the top spot in both
points and wins.
 
Robert, you would be aghast at my front end of my F250 with 337K miles on the suspension and steering parts.

I had to replace some tie rod ends once a few years back. I never did get a good alignment with my measuring tape method, and OMG did that truck steer funny for the short while before some brake and other troubles took it off the road for a bit.

The funny part if I remember right was. If I lifted the truck off the ground and let the wheels hang and measured the distances. I would get a whole different look once it sat down on the ground. This made for some hit or miss attempts and screwing the Tie Rods in or out till I got it kinda close. My other truck that would seem to wear edges like you said your Mustang was doing, was my 77 F100 with Kingpin type front end. I never got it aligned before taking it off the road too.

Robert Herndon said below. "Geometry changes big time with the front end off the ground. The old Ford front ends were tough on tires!!!! "


PS. In response to Robert's message about adjustments/measurements made with weight off the vehicle, I seem to remember I would measure things up in the air and on the ground. Then jack up and adjust closer to straight and then lower and repeat. However, I still got camber or caster whichever it is, off kilter and just lived with it abit,
 
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I suspect, if Robert were to analyse his tyre wear exactly each night, that he would be more than capable of projecting his next day's journey with the correct amount of turns to compensate for the previously uneven wear.

I also suspect, for example, that the tyre below comes from a perfectly functioning and balanced and aligned vehicle, but there are two issues to consider: 1) the person on the left side of the car is very much heavier than the passenger; 2) far too many left turns. To fix these obvious issues: 1) car journey participants should sit more centrally (perhaps on a bench running the length of the car in the centre); 2) the journey itself should be carefully planned, not with respect to time or fuel usage, but rather even turns, passenger seating locationality and tyre wear.

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Robert, no need to thank me, it's all part of the service.

& always remember: you can't fit quicker than a Quickfit fitter!

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(You can choose, and probably should, not to click on the above picture to view it full-sized...)
 
Robert, you would be aghast at my front end of my F250 with 337K miles on the suspension and steering parts.

I had to replace some tie rod ends once a few years back. I never did get a good alignment with my measuring tape method, and OMG did that truck steer funny for the short while before some brake and other troubles took it off the road for a bit.

The funny part if I remember right was. If I lifted the truck off the ground and let the wheels hang and measured the distances. I would get a whole different look once it sat down on the ground. This made for some hit or miss attempts and screwing the Tir Rods in or out till I got it kinda close. My other truck that would seem to wear edges like you said your Mustang was doing, was my 77 F100 with Kingpin type front end. I never got it aligned before taking it ff the road too.

Geometry changes big time with the front end off the ground. The old Ford front ends were tough on tires!!!!
 
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