2016 Gibson SG Fret Level???

Robert Herndon said:
It seems to play ok...frets 1 through 7 are crowned. Frets 8 through 14 are flat on top in the middle of the frets and on frets 15 through 22, the crown is the full length of the fret again...as if they ran a beam over the frets with the neck in a convex state.
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Who would've run a beam over it? Wasn't it brand new when you bought it? If so, it would've been plek'd at the factory which puts a crown on the frets as well as leveling.
 
jtcnj said:
Well that does it then - have at it!
since it does play pretty well - you should not have to take much off leveling.
I dont know what crowning tool or method you are using but remember, if you go too far and the crowning file takes off the tip of the crown - you have lost your leveling.
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Good Point....I usually level, crown and re-level several times with worn out #800 paper, just to see where I am with my freehand filing....

Here are a couple of pics from my recent freehand fret level on my Destroyer:

DT555 Level.jpg DT555 Crown.jpg
 
flatrockmobile said:
Who would've run a beam over it? Wasn't it brand new when you bought it? If so, it would've been plek'd at the factory which puts a crown on the frets as well as leveling.
Click to expand...

No. Not all Gibson's are Plek'd, and yes, it was bought new, but Gibson does some crazy stupid things too...
 
that sounds like a lot of work, but also a slow, controlled method helps keep from going too far.
What do you mean by freehand? or by hand as opposed to a CNC type process?
Do you run a flat or radiused leveling beam across the entire length of frets evenly after getting the neck as straight as possible or some compromise based on the individual neck?

The lighting is key to seeing that crown become narrow to a thin line.
I stop at a pretty thin strip now instead of trying to get it to a very thin line.
I dont tape off the board anymore, but mine are all sub $250. guitars.

Im dying to get to my AXL husk build.
 
jtcnj said:
that sounds like a lot of work, but also a slow, controlled method helps keep from going too far.
What do you mean by freehand? or by hand as opposed to a CNC type process?
Do you run a flat or radiused leveling beam across the entire length of frets evenly after getting the neck as straight as possible or some compromise based on the individual neck?

The lighting is key to seeing that crown become narrow to a thin line.
I stop at a pretty thin strip now instead of trying to get it to a very thin line.
I dont tape off the board anymore, but mine are all sub $250. guitars.

Im dying to get to my AXL husk build.
Click to expand...

"Freehand" may not be the correct term. I use a 12" radius block, but my crowing file is a "freehand" tool, in as much as the filer has to keep the tool straight. I started by inking the frets, then leveling, then inking and crowning, then inking and leveling again. Once I have a very narrow and consistent strip, I make a final pass over the inked frets with my radius block just to be sure I didn't distort the fret's profile with my crowing file.

I'm not real smart, but I am persistent...
 
I had the house to myself yesterday, so I spent 11 hours practicing and switching between guitars.

The Schecter is still the tonal winner, but the SG has potential if it had more output. Even with the DSL40C cranked, I can't get the 7.93k Alinco II in the bridge to give me much past an Angus Young.

I wonder how this SG would sound up around 16 or 17k????

I know a lot of folks dig the 15.5k/7.8k combination used back in the 80's (JB/Jazz) so that's an option...as are some of my Ibanez V2 clones, which are 17k/15.8k bridge/neck - similar to the old DiMarzio Super Distortion, but with heavier, 44awg wire and more ohms.

I also have a new Faber aluminum tailpiece I found yesterday in a box of parts.

I can't seem to be able to get rid of this SG, so maybe I can make it, at least useable, with a pickup swap???
 
Got a pair of Suhr Doug Aldrich Humbuckers coming for the SG...covered, nickel finish, 17k bridge/10k neck...I'm trading my gold ones in for nickel....
 
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