New Kit

gasket said:
As planned I wanted this kit to make acoustic and electric noise before any attempt to finish. It now breathes and I'm very pleased with the sound. I say sound rather than tone at this early stage. Nothing is really screwed up yet I haven't even cut the bridge grooves. I'm also glad I assembled before paint as I'm not so sure now, small possibility I may run with a natural timber look. I'm liking what I see, will live with it for a couple of days.

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No need to pain that wood. Very nice!
 
RVA said:
I am surprised that you are a tonewood believer
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I believe that certain wood's transmit vibration more readily than others.

Every time I get into a tonewood debate, I let someone play the 12 string neck of my Double Neck with only the 6 string side plugged in, and it comes through as if the 6 string side is being played.

If...tonal quality was not inherent to certain woods, a Les Paul would not have such a unique tone, IMHO anyways.
 
RVA said:
Yep. If you use the stuff i posted, here is the run down:

- coats 5-10 minutes apart until it has a sufficient amount for 1 application. If you wait for longer than that, wait 24-36 hours and light sand before next application, with 1,000 grit. Wait approx 2 weeks before full buff to shine.
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Good advice!
 
Earlier in this thread I've been taking on good advice regarding enamel, poly & nitro.
Things have now changed :-)
My thinking is to Tru-Oil the front (for sure!) and thinking about black enamel on body sides and neck BECAUSE I (unfortunately) have a skim of timber filler at the neck joint. Possibly Tru-Oil or black enamel on the body back?

20180425_152124.jpg

The question is, if I mask the binding and spray black enamel on sides and neck, once hard and cut back ... can I Tru-Oil over everything IE front, binding & enamel? My thinking is with enough coats of Tru-Oil the small step where black enamel meets the binding, it should finish smooth and even to the feel but a sharp contrast to the eye.
 
gasket said:
Earlier in this thread I've been taking on good advice regarding enamel, poly & nitro.
Things have now changed :)
My thinking is to Tru-Oil the front (for sure!) and thinking about black enamel on body sides and neck BECAUSE I (unfortunately) have a skim of timber filler at the neck joint. Possibly Tru-Oil or black enamel on the body back?

View attachment 14598

The question is, if I mask the binding and spray black enamel on sides and neck, once hard and cut back ... can I Tru-Oil over everything IE front, binding & enamel? My thinking is with enough coats of Tru-Oil the small step where black enamel meets the binding, it should finish smooth and even to the feel but a sharp contrast to the eye.
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Tru oil is a pleasure to work with and I think you will be very happy. It really brings out the grain too.

You can Tru oil over the plastic binding and scrap it clean later if yiu choose. I would not put Tru oil over black enamel paint. I do not think it will hurt it, but it will dull it. Tru Oil is unique blend of linseed and other natural oils. Unlike linseed oil, it hardens to a shell. That said, I think it would only serve to dull the enamel paint, even if it does stick.
 
20180430_195101-jpg.14502


HAHA, Now I know why it had that big circle cut out thru the body. DUH, Me
 
RVA said:
Tru oil is a pleasure to work with and I think you will be very happy. It really brings out the grain too.

You can Tru oil over the plastic binding and scrap it clean later if yiu choose. I would not put Tru oil over black enamel paint. I do not think it will hurt it, but it will dull it. Tru Oil is unique blend of linseed and other natural oils. Unlike linseed oil, it hardens to a shell. That said, I think it would only serve to dull the enamel paint, even if it does stick.
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OK, so if I do the black enamel work to a high quality finish first. Then mask the black and Tru-Oil over the front and binding up to the enamel (possibly "slightly SLIGHTLY" onto the enamel) and then do the wet sand re apply thing over and over again I have a good chance of a smooth joint between black and Tru-Oil?
 
gasket said:
OK, so if I do the black enamel work to a high quality finish first. Then mask the black and Tru-Oil over the front and binding up to the enamel (possibly "slightly SLIGHTLY" onto the enamel) and then do the wet sand re apply thing over and over again I have a good chance of a smooth joint between black and Tru-Oil?
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No need to wet sand true oil. Use the Naptha / Tru oil mix I posted and apply very light coats. After the 3rd coat, sand with dry 1,000 grit paper and wipe with a lint free cloth between each coat. You can sand every 4 hours with tru oil. A bit longer may be better, but 8 hours is more than enough. By the 6-8th coat, you will have a stellar shine. Feel free to keep going for a thicker finish. I have done as many as 15. I would not stress if you hit the paint, I would just not make it my plan.
 
RVA said:
No need to wet sand true oil. Use the Naptha / Tru oil mix I posted and apply very light coats. After the 3rd coat, sand with dry 1,000 grit paper and wipe with a lint free cloth between each coat. You can sand every 4 hours with tru oil. A bit longer may be better, but 8 hours is more than enough. By the 6-8th coat, you will have a stellar shine. Feel free to keep going for a thicker finish. I have done as many as 15. I would not stress if you hit the paint, I would just not make it my plan.
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Sounds good.
Pressure of time and a few more small jobs on this project slowing things but hopefully this weekend I'll get into the finishing process.
Not a race :-)
 
Found a little time today, cut the headstock shape from square across the top.

20180512_185016.jpg

With so much chrome on the body I'm playing with a polished 0.5mm alloy veneer for the headstock.
Once tuners are fitted and a custom logo applied I have hopes it will look cool.

20180512_185041.jpg

Did a mock up to get the feel. Honest opinion please, this look or paint?

20180512_213946.jpg
 
gasket said:
Did a mock up to get the feel. Honest opinion please, this look or paint?
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Headstock idea looks good as is now. But what happens after it is installed and finished? Will the overlay deform when tuner holes are drilled, or from pressure applied when securing the tuners?

Also, it looks like your leaning to paint the neck black. Plus, combining Tru-Oil with enamel at different points of the guitar. As RVA has indicated, having the Tru-oil on top of the enamel is going to be a challenge to make look good. Finishing with the Tru-oil to meet up with the enamel by masking the black might work... maybe. Maybe another opinion from Pit Bull on this?

FWIW... guitar manufacturers like EBMM, on a lot of their bolt-on neck models, laquer finish the body's, and then do an oil & wax finish on their necks. Obviously, the neck's will not be painted with this method.
 
syscokid said:
Headstock idea looks good as is now. But what happens after it is installed and finished? Will the overlay deform when tuner holes are drilled, or from pressure applied when securing the tuners?
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The overlay is only 0.5mm thick and WILL deform slightly once tuners are tightened. I don't think a flat mirror finish is possible unless the overlay was SUPER thick, that isn't the objective here. The chrome body parts are stamped and also don't give a flat mirror reflection, see photo above in post #93. I'm thinking (hoping) once tuners are installed and a custom logo is between or slightly above the tuners the imperfect reflection will be a little like the body chrome.

syscokid said:
Also, it looks like your leaning to paint the neck black. Plus, combining Tru-Oil with enamel at different points of the guitar. As RVA has indicated, having the Tru-oil on top of the enamel is going to be a challenge to make look good. Finishing with the Tru-oil to meet up with the enamel by masking the black might work... maybe. Maybe another opinion from Pit Bull on this?
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I worked myself into a corner when I used some timber filler at the neck joint so am compelled to paint the sides and neck or fade paint out as it hits the neck.
Have taken advice, no Tru-Oil over paint now, thinking a sanded Tru-Oil / Enamel joining point.

The project is moving slowly and evolving, where I am now is miles away from original plan. I think a better result will come from the time and questions asked. If the polished headstock fails I can still strip it down and veneer with timber :-(
 
That looks good. The overlay might add some rigid mass and sustain to the headstock and guitar. You stated that the alloy veneer is .5mm thick. Is it very flexible at this thickness? How much do you think the plate weighs?
 
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