LP Tribute refinish, take 2...

Steve, you will save yourself a lot of pain and suffering and stress if you pick up an HVLP touch-up gun
practice with it for a half hour then tint and thin your Tru-oil. They are not that expensive and perfect for
guitar and in particular burst work. And you don't need the biggest industrial compressor either.

if fact now I see this I'm wondering why I don't use mine more for leather, I initially purchased it
for my guitar refinishing years ago- then decided I didn't like spraying anymore. Perhaps that's you as well.

I do however salute your stick-to-it-'tude, and will cheer you on from the sidelines no matter how you decide.
 
TVvoodoo said:
Steve, you will save yourself a lot of pain and suffering and stress if you pick up an HVLP touch-up gun
practice with it for a half hour then tint and thin your Tru-oil. They are not that expensive and perfect for
guitar and in particular burst work. And you don't need the biggest industrial compressor either.

if fact now I see this I'm wondering why I don't use mine more for leather, I initially purchased it
for my guitar refinishing years ago- then decided I didn't like spraying anymore. Perhaps that's you as well.

I do however salute your stick-to-it-'tude, and will cheer you on from the sidelines no matter how you decide.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Maybe one of these days, but right now I don't have a place to spray and don't really want to anyway.
 
With the small touch-up gun mine adjusts to spray about an inch and a half wide down to about 5/8" wide footprint. Like about four times as big as a hobby airbrush. You don't need a lot of space, of course protection/ventilation are important considerations but not a lot of overspray to deal with.
Just in case you've never seen one in action. Ideal for bursty work, and workable for general coverage for guitar-sized items
 
I'm going to try a gel stain this time. I just got my sander, not sure if I'm going to use it. Gel stains are supposed to work on top of finishes so I might just experiment before I sand it. I've got nothing to lose, it'll either work or I'll sand back and start over like I was going to do anyway.
 
Got some goodies today...wish me luck, I'm trying something new.

EpbUEY3.jpg
 
Game back on! I lost my confidence there for a while, but I'm back in it. I got it sanded back down to pretty much bare wood again. Today I did a new dye job. I used alcohol this time instead of water to mix my dye. It came out much more even and no botchy spots like before. It is quite a bit darker than I intended, I was trying to match the back and sides by adding some red to the brown and I put a bit of black in to make it a darker brown than before and I may have used a little too much, but I think it's going to look good...or at least better than before.

This is with just one coat of Tru-oil, I think it'll start to look better after a few more.

eARopHq.jpg
 
There are a couple of places where my oil bled thru the overlaps in my tape job when I taped off the faux binding, but now that some tru-oil is on I think I can touch them up with either some paint or the oil based stain I bought but didn't use. It may not blend perfectly, but if I can pull it off it shouldn't be as noticeable as what it is now. If not, I don't think it's a big deal really.

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Uh4NzW5.jpg
 
DirtySteve said:
There are a couple of places where my oil bled thru the overlaps in my tape job when I taped off the faux binding, but now that some tru-oil is on I think I can touch them up with either some paint or the oil based stain I bought but didn't use. It may not blend perfectly, but if I can pull it off it shouldn't be as noticeable as what it is now. If not, I don't think it's a big deal really.
Click to expand...
Bummer about the spots, but I, for one, am ecstatic to see you back at it!!!
 
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