My 1994 Buick Park Avenue

Don O said:
There might be some assembly required first. :run:
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Right, I never would of ripped out that console for a SECURITY light being on. 94 GM, that is on its own system that is not related to the key.

If security is on..many times.. the light will go out on dash as key is turned on console then security light flashes or stays solid if the system is in theft mode
 
Just want to know the actual original symptom(security light on as dash lights died..or just dead dash light with solid security) before the rip out, when key was turned. Experienced many many of these over the years on calls.
 
Just want to point out something in case you get it traced. Not saying its this without being there to diagnose.

GM security systems with metal key & V,A.T.S. resistor system pre -transponder(chip) are a separate alarm system on the security light .On solid o dash & no start or power to dash light then just simply dies & disappears. I can not fix them with locksmith scan tools on site.
Sometimes these things get lost in limbo if a remote was used to trigger the door lock. Then remote is lost-door is popped & security system activated. 9/10 times we get calls & customer thinks its key issue. Don't get me started on soft metal used on GM keys & pins dropping & grabbing keys from wear. lol
 
I took my driving test in an 86 Buick Park Avenue. My mom's car. I never had occasion to work on that car, it seemed like it was pretty reliable.

Last time I had an issue with a dash cluster going dark, it was a headlight switch grounding out internally. It might be worth unplugging that switch and check if your idiot lights start working again.

A bad ground will also make the dash lights quit, usually the whole dash will ground through a bolt attached to the firewall up in the driver's side footwell. I think it's likely not a ground, though, since you're showing continuity to ground at the fuse. I don't know anything about the security system, that would be the next thing to check.
 
I didn’t realize I hadn’t updated this thread with info.

It turned out the fuse was not ok. I was looking at the wrong fuse as this is an export model, the fuses are differently located compared to US domestic models.

The fuse blows as soon as I tun the ignition on, like immediately. The fuse powers the instrument cluster, the information center, the DERM (for the airbag), the heated seat, the memory seat module, the rear view mirror (automatic dimming), and the multi function chime.

I have disconnected all the modules and the fuse still blows. I’m now down to tracing individual cables in the cable harness. This turned out to be a teal clusterf*ck.

IMG_1188.jpeg

The car is totally drivable like this by the way. Don’t ask how I know.
 
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Astral Traveler said:
I’m didn’t realize I hadn’t updated this thread with info.

It turned out the fuse was not ok. I was looking at the wrong fuse as this is an export model, the fuses are differently located compared to US domestic models.

The fuse blows as soon as I tun the ignition on, like immediately. The fuse powers the instrument cluster, the information center, the DERM (for the airbag), the heated seat, the memory seat module, the rear view mirror (automatic dimming), and the multi function chime.

I have disconnected all the modules and the fuse still blows. I’m now down to tracing individual cables in the cable harness. This turned out to be a teal clusterf*ck.

View attachment 100472

The car is totally drivable like this by the way. Don’t ask how I know.
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And now you know why I was happy to get moved into parts way back in 1980. The one part of being a mechanic I did not enjoy….. and still don’t ….. would be chasing electrical issues.
 
One week of fault finding and I finally found the little f*cker! The cable going to the rear view mirror is damaged somewhere. Probably in the ceiling or going up along the A-post.

I found the scarf joint where all the consumers scarf into the cable coming from the fuse. I cut open the joint and measured the cables individually.

IMG_1190.jpeg
 
Congrats on finding it. I'd just snip the bastard, you don't really need power in the mirror. Some gm cars have a map light in the mirror, is that it?

If you want to fix rather than disable that function, look really close at the wires right at the mirror. It's a major job to feed a new wire through the A pillar of any car, and difficult to imagine how wire inside there could get damaged in the first place if the pillar itself is not damaged.
 
I had guessed instrument cluster but you are far beyond that. The other column wiring / ignition but BFT has that eliminated. They do sell a tool that helps find shorts but a test light works. Except there is 10 miles of wire.
Not sure about this vehicle . Does it have a harness plug at the firewall?
Disregard. Glad you found it.
 
Don O said:
A friend on my car forum has a signature line:

If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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I worked in a farm tractor/combine/implement dealership most of my adult life. Some construction equipment. Closed out my working career in parts at a marina along Lake Michigan. A hammer(s) was a very important tool in my tool box and if mine weren't big enough, there was always the store's sledge hammer.

Edit: In fact, I'm having an issue with the self propel on my push mower. It's fixin' to get the hammer treatment then a trip to HD for a new mower.
 
iblive said:
I worked in a farm tractor/combine/implement dealership most of my adult life. Some construction equipment. Closed out my working career in parts at a marina along Lake Michigan. A hammer(s) was a very important tool in my tool box and if mine weren't big enough, there was always the store's sledge hammer.

Edit: In fact, I'm having an issue with the self propel on my push mower. It's fixin' to get the hammer treatment then a trip to HD for a new mower.
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Every mechanic has a BFH.
 
dirocyn said:
Congrats on finding it. I'd just snip the bastard, you don't really need power in the mirror. Some gm cars have a map light in the mirror, is that it?

If you want to fix rather than disable that function, look really close at the wires right at the mirror. It's a major job to feed a new wire through the A pillar of any car, and difficult to imagine how wire inside there could get damaged in the first place if the pillar itself is not damaged.
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No map light in it, it automatically darkens at night if there’s bright headlights behind you. I’m sure there’s a fancy English word for that function. Pretty high tech for 1994.

If I smack the ceiling behind the mirror I can se the short temporarily go away, so it’s definitely there. I’m not fixing it now, instead I cut the wire to the mirror in the cable harness and pulled it back down to the fuse box, so if I ever pull the ceiling down in the future I can fix the short and reconnect the mirror on an empty slot in the fusebox without having to pull the dashboard again. I’m now in the process of reconnecting the cut wires with a solder scarf.
 
iblive said:
Or three. Most of have a LFH for those "delicate" jobs. ;):pound-hand:
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I have an old friend, Clem, who used to build NASCAR engines back in the 60s. You certainly remember Sears had a lifetime guarantee on tools. After about the 6th time Clem returned a big screwdriver to Sears because it broke, the salesman said, “Clem, you know we sell chisels too”. :rolf:
 
Don O said:
I have an old friend, Clem, who used to build NASCAR engines back in the 60s. You certainly remember Sears had a lifetime guarantee on tools. After about the 6th time Clem returned a big screwdriver to Sears because it broke, the salesman said, “Clem, you know we sell chisels too”. :rolf:
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I snapped the end off a Snap-On screwdriver. Was a small flat one. Obviously been used for something it was not intended for. Snap-On guy gave me a new one. No questions. I really liked the old black handled screw drivers from Snap-On. Better than Sears, Mac or Matco. They just seemed to fit my hands better. I mean at the end of the day, they all do the same job..... just liked them better. Oddly. Never liked Snap-On combination wrenches. Preferred Mac/Matco. Same reason. I liked how they felt using them. And still have that box full of tools from when I was wrenching for a living pre-1980, when I got moved into parts.
 
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