Ok, Guys....Esteemed Gentlemen....Musical Degenerates....I could use your advice here.
I've got a great, smooth polyurethane finish on this Dave Murray Stratocaster. It's several years old and very well cured.
My goal is to paint it Arctic White (at the artist's request) without using any kind of heavy build primer to add mil thickness.
20+ years ago, I painted an old Stratocaster white with appliances epoxy paint. It took about a week to fully dry, but it was shiny and slick. However, spray paints - back then - seemed as though they handled much better before low VOC formulations.
I'm not sure how the modern appliance epoxy would hold up. The downside is you need to get a near-perfect, glossy basecoat before clear is applied and since the epoxy is super slow drying, there are all kinds of opportunities for bugs and other contaminates to get into the slow curing finish.
I've also thought about using a flat lacquer for the basecoat, then topcoat that with SprayMaster 2K (catalyzed) Polyurethane Clear. The flat handles well and can be applied easily, dries quick, and can be top coated with just about anything.
Adhesion is my big question when using a lacquer baseplate over polyurethane.
A couple of car guys I know have painted their brake calipers with Automotive Paint, both by Krylon and Rustoleum, topcoated with SprayMaster 2k Polyurethane and had very good results.
I'm convinced that the 2 part catalyzed clear is needed on this touring Musician's guitar. It will offer some level of impact protection and be impact resistant to a higher degree over non-catalyzed alternatives, but the basecoat issue is still on the table.
Thanks for your input on this....