Best Dark Stain For Possible SG Build:

Robert Herndon said:
First, 220# will change the shape of the guitar and alter the corner profiles. I don't want to do that.
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I guess it could if you're aggressive enough, but with careful sanding techniques it should not be a problem. Look how sharp the edges are on my SG Junior.

Robert Herndon said:
... I don't want to add moisture to the wood. ... and avoid adding moisture which always causes swelling to some degree.
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This is a non factor. All of the moisture will be on the surface of the wood and will completely evaporate.


After you sand with 220 or 320 to prepare for grain filling, you need to moisten all the wood with water to "raise the grain". Then lightly sand again to knock off the hairs created by moistening the wood. Then apply the filler. Squeegee off the excess filler. Let dry 24 hours. Sand off filler. Super sand-polish up to 12,000 micro mesh. One to three thin coats per day. The Tru-Oil needs about 4 hours to dry in between coats. Expect about 10 to 12, or more, coats of oil.

As soon as I fire up the PC, I'll try to upload a tutorial called "Well Oiled by Adamson".

Here's a link to my old thread at ETSG
www.everythingsg.com

Greg's SG Jr Kit-Build

Thanks to all the GAS that has seeped into my pores, because of all you "gassy " members here... I have no choice but begin yet another adventure. So here I (We?) go... Precision Guitar Kits SG Junior, with a requested option of a Ebony headstock veneer instead of the phenolic... and a welcomed...
www.everythingsg.com www.everythingsg.com
 
Another finishing product based on oil comes from Wudtone, out of the UK. Wudtone products can be bought through BYOGuitar from New Hampshire. My Esquire-ish guitar is finished with this stuff. I would say it's a bit easier to apply, and the finished wood feels very similar to the Tru-Oil finish.

Wudtone Custom Guitar Innovation | Hardware & Finishes

Wudtone Hardware & Finishes, Parts for your tone friendly passion.
www.wudtone.com www.wudtone.com

Wudtone Finishes - Guitar bodies and kits from BYOGuitar

www.byoguitar.com www.byoguitar.com
 
I really want to sand this smooth. I gotta be honest in that I don't see why sanding with 220# is recommended when the grain is below the wood surface.

I also want to simply the build as much as possible.

My current thought is more about bringing out the grain and less about a smooth surface.

My current thoughts are to start by sanding really smooth then applying some dark brown/black stain to fill the grain, the re-sand to remove the stain from the flat surfaces.

Then, stain the entire guitar amber followed by pumpkin orange and lastly a brown mahogany to try and get as close to that Gretsch finish as possible.

I will likely finish up with Tru Oil.
 
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Robert Herndon said:
I really want to sand this smooth. I gotta be honest in that I don't see why sanding with 220# is recommended when the grain is below the wood surface.

I also want to simply the build as much as possible.

My current thought is more about bringing out the grain and less about a smooth surface.

My current thoughts are to start by sanding really smooth then applying some dark brown/black stain to fill the grain, the re-sand to remove the stain from the flat surfaces.

Then, stain the entire guitar amber followed by pumpkin orange and lastly a brown mahogany to try and get as close to that Gretsch finish as possible.

I will likely finish up with Tru Oil.
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Sounds like you want to avoid the grain filler. Which is how I finished my Esquire-ish with the Wudtone product. The wood is swamp ash and the color is called Hot Auburn. Look how the grain took to the coloring and no grain filler...

PGK Tele UNFINISHED (3).JPG


IMG_3232.JPG


The Wudtone package: Base Coat, Deep Color Coat, and Top Coat:
Deep Color Coat (1).JPG
 
syscokid said:
Both guitars are mahogany and finished in Tru-Oil. Guitar on left is a 2002 Special Faded that was originally Worn Cherry. Stripped down, no grain filler, dyed Miniwax some-type-of green, ...Tru-Oiled. The guitar on right, from a PGK kit, ebony grain filler, dyed Heritage Cherry (Stewmac water based stain). ...Tru-Oiled. Both guitars were sanded ultra-fine before getting oiled. As far as feeling your guitar wood is concerned... NOTHING beats the feeling of a guitar properly finished in Tru-Oil.

View attachment 82829
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Greg,

I can think of one or 2 things that beat the feel of Tru Oil, but since we often have ladies present, I will leave it at that.
 
Robert Herndon said:
Goodfilla water based ebony grain filler

W.D. Lockwood #MCW194 Golden Yellow Metal Complex Dye

W.D. Lockwood #36 Cuban Red/Brown Mahogany Analine Dye

Zinsser Wax Free Clear Sealant

Stewie-Mac Vintage Amber Nitrocellulous Lacquer Clear
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Robert, you confuse me a little every so often.
In this case, I am following right along with you up to the Zinsser Wax Free Clear Sealant and StewMac Nitro.

I thought you hate nitro.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Robert, you confuse me a little every so often.
In this case, I am following right along with you up to the Zinsser Wax Free Clear Sealant and StewMac Nitro.

I thought you hate nitro.
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I'm not a huge fan of Nitrocellulous, but this SG is being built to the old recipe that Gibson used, so I'm trying to mimic what they were doing at the time.

My 2021 Gibson Les Paul 50's Standard Gold Top is a nitro finish and it's absolutely beautiful, but it does get sticky out in direct sunlight when you are sweating, but I guess I gotta adapt.
 
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I should mention that on the dyes, the Golden yellow will have to be reduced with denatured alcohol and the Cuban brown with water to avoid "unsetting" the previous coats.
 
Robert Herndon said:
I'm not a huge fan of Nitrocellulous, but this SG is being built to the old recipe that Gibson used, so I'm trying to mimic what they were doing at the time.

My 2021 Gibson Les Paul 50's Standard Gold Top is a nitro finish and it's absolutely beautiful, but it does get sticky out in direct sunlight when you are sweating, but I guess I gotta adapt.
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Now I am following you.
 
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