Not Amps, But Speaker Cabinets...

jtcnj said:
Outstanding on both counts, Chris!!
HOw do you attach the badges?

I would love to make my builds more polished but like was said, I go with what I have.
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The section of the grill where the badges are attached is left with solid wood. The badges I used were meant for cars so the have posts on the back of them.
I just drill a proper size hole and either use the metal screw plate that came with the badge or glue it in in the case of the 2x12 because the posts were too short...
 
Sp8ctre said:
I have Black screws on order to replace the silver ones on the corner protectors.

This thing sounds amazing! Best speakers I've owned to date!
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OK OK for us cab novices, what do you guys recommend for Speaker Mounting Screws? My Traynor cab has 4 prexisting holes per 12 inch speaker hole.

However it did not come with screws and the holes are drilled thru 3/4 ply and it has 4 of those T nut barbed nuts on the insides of each hole. Standard chrome screws fit the thread pitch just not the head size to mount my EV speakers. The cage frame holes are bigger than the heads of the screws.

Another note on this cab is that the holes that must have been what were the speakers Traynor used, are a smidge off from what the EV hole pattern is.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
OK OK for us cab novices, what do you guys recommend for Speaker Mounting Screws? My Traynor cab has 4 prexisting holes per 12 inch speaker hole.

However it did not come with screws and the holes are drilled thru 3/4 ply and it has 4 of those T nut barbed nuts on the insides of each hole. Standard chrome screws fit the thread pitch just not the head size to mount my EV speakers. The cage frame holes are bigger than the heads of the screws.

Another note on this cab is that the holes that must have been what were the speakers Traynor used, are a smidge off from what the EV hole pattern is.
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You can try pan-head machine screws if you can find them in the correct size and thread. For my cabinet I used washers.
 
smitty_p said:
You can try pan-head machine screws if you can find them in the correct size and thread. For my cabinet I used washers.
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Smitty, I have washers and screws but the screws I got were too short for the thicker EV frames.

I also am wondering, The EV Speaker's holes are just slightly off to line up perfectly with the T nut holes and not cross thread. Would anyone be hesitant to use wood screws to make use of the other frame holes and go into the plywood directly? Essentially adding non bolted, but screws to wood join instead?
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Would anyone be hesitant to use wood screws to make use of the other frame holes and go into the plywood directly?
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I would be hesitant to do that. Too much torque from vibration and weight can elongate those holes, leading to failure. It may hold fine for a while, but….I’d rather drill new holes, for T-nuts, in appropriate( previously unused) locations.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Smitty, I have washers and screws but the screws I got were too short for the thicker EV frames.

I also am wondering, The EV Speaker's holes are just slightly off to line up perfectly with the T nut holes and not cross thread. Would anyone be hesitant to use wood screws to make use of the other frame holes and go into the plywood directly? Essentially adding non bolted, but screws to wood join instead?
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The mounting frame on EV speakers are thicker.
 
67plexi said:
The mounting frame on EV speakers are thicker.
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Yup. thicker plus the beginning of the threads of the t nuts don't start exactly at the leading edge of the 3/4 plywood mounting board, they are about 3/8 set in. SO, my guesstimated screw length while shopping last week was off by about 1/2 inch in length.

I'll sort it out. NOW to find another pair of nice 8 ohm speakers to complete this Traynor cab.
 
Thatbastarddon said:
I would be hesitant to do that. Too much torque from vibration and weight can elongate those holes, leading to failure. It may hold fine for a while, but….I’d rather drill new holes, for T-nuts, in appropriate( previously unused) locations.
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This was my thought too, I just didn't want to make Swiss cheese out of the front board on this vintage cab.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Smitty, I have washers and screws but the screws I got were too short for the thicker EV frames.

I also am wondering, The EV Speaker's holes are just slightly off to line up perfectly with the T nut holes and not cross thread. Would anyone be hesitant to use wood screws to make use of the other frame holes and go into the plywood directly? Essentially adding non bolted, but screws to wood join instead?
Click to expand...


I’ve used round-head or pan-head wood screws before for speakers in cabinet builds. It works fine. Of course, it is a little less conducive to frequent speaker swaps, but I’ve had no issues with it.
 
I knew the type screws I wanted, but could not see them at Home Depot the other day. They are called Truss Head screws.

I got a box of hundred 8-32 x 1 1/2 inch long ones plus 16 more T nuts which will do 4 speakers in the Traynor cab.

Truss Head Screw.jpg

In retrospect, I have revised my initial plan to put the 2 EV speakers in the Traynor. Instead I will now swap out the Eminence Governor speakers that are in my orange tolex Behringer cab and install them in the Traynor. Then I will put 4 Peavey speakers I got specifically to install in the Behringer cab and sell that cab.

Finally, I want to build a 2x12 for the EV speakers.
 
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