What's on Your Workbench?

RVA said:
I guess the depth of the true oil will be dependent on how porous the wood was and the manner of application.

FYI - I just read that acetone will take off tru oil. That could help a lot for bleeding out the pours, although I have never had to do that as opposed to just sanding.
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Yeah, I just recently saw a video of a guy redoing the finish on a Les Paul and he used acetone and paper towels to remove the old finish. I think someone may have posted the video here, but I'm not finding it. It looked pretty easy to do. If I do that I will definitely have to redo the whole thing.

The top is maple so I doubt the oil soaked in very deep, but the back is Korina and I'm sure it soaked in deeper.
 
DirtySteve said:
Yeah, I just recently saw a video of a guy redoing the finish on a Les Paul and he used acetone and paper towels to remove the old finish. I think someone may have posted the video here, but I'm not finding it. It looked pretty easy to do. If I do that I will definitely have to redo the whole thing.

The top is maple so I doubt the oil soaked in very deep, but the back is Korina and I'm sure it soaked in deeper.
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Finishing is a precarious activity that has a lot of variables. I find it very challenging. The good part is that it is very amenable to do-overs!
 
RVA said:
If it is Tru-Oil, I would sand the whole thing. Generally speaking, if I was not willing to put a finish on top of Tru-Oil, I would also hot put it next to it. Both poly and shrink when curing. Of course, I am have never done this, and they may work well together for a reason unknown to me.

It looks nice in this pic by the way.

I know Tru-Oil darkens. Did it darken everything more evenly rather than providing contrast in the grain?
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Ray, Dirty Steve, I totally understand the position you are in. Ever since I first set out to start in construction work after college, I found myself in a learn as I earn scenario. I was green on many things back then and continue to face the uncertainty of materials, compatibility and final results of new projects I try now. My latest is the use and application of Nitro onto a guitar during winter time temps and having to learn how to make Spray guns lay the material out properly, warm the nitro better as Stewmac suggests, or get a different gun, wait till Spring warms up my friend's garage, etc.

I am not experienced in Tru Oil, and am not able to answer by sensory visualizing of your particular guitar body from not seeing the Before, During and After coats applications in action that you alone experienced.

Ray, I also think you missed a word in your sentence about " Both Poly And???? shrink when curing... " What comes after AND? Nitro, Pre Cat, etc?
I made posts in another thread about numerous videos about Nitro applications. I have also done a lot of research about the other clear coats, pro's and cons, how to's etc. I suggest a Facebook group called the Brotherhood of Guitar Finishing as well. Lots of knowledgeable guys there.
 
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RVA said:
Finishing is a precarious activity that has a lot of variables. I find it very challenging. The good part is that it is very amenable to do-overs!
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See my message above, and I totally agree, Ray. Also, @DirtySteve, I may have been the one posting the finish removal clip you mentioned, I will have ot check

Redo's of a Natural finish seems like a way easier do over than one like my GLITTER guitar. I would have to make a real mess to fix a refinish flaw on that flakey finish.
 
RVA said:
You may have to sand it bare, but even still, I guess you still need wonder whether the tru-oil penetrated much deeper than the dye.

Questions: Did you use dye with water or alcohol, or an oil based stain/dye? Also, did you use grain filler/sealer?
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These are some of the questions my research was teaching me as well. Good questions, Ray/Dirty Steve
 
66SS396 said:




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Cool stuff!

Did that piece of metal shielding that's partially surrounding the input jacks, make any amount of difference?

I have a Compu-Bias too. Unfortunately one of the probes bias current measurement accuracy is way off as of a couple years ago. I want to take the faulty socket adapter apart and see if I can rebuild it, but the socket and its housing is glued shut! And AFAIK, Compu-Bias is no more... :(
 
DirtySteve said:
Yeah, I just recently saw a video of a guy redoing the finish on a Les Paul and he used acetone and paper towels to remove the old finish. I think someone may have posted the video here, but I'm not finding it. It looked pretty easy to do. If I do that I will definitely have to redo the whole thing.

The top is maple so I doubt the oil soaked in very deep, but the back is Korina and I'm sure it soaked in deeper.
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Pretty sure you saw it here, @DirtySteve

Exceptional Guitar Finisher and several good demo's

Here is a great youtuber, who even responds to questions really fast.
www.thetonerooms.com
 
rainy and blustery (and cold...... 61 degrees bbbrrrrrr !!! ) here --
dogs are all sleeping
chores done...
think I will tackle the tuners swap on the "V"
(the astute forum-ite will notice the high e tuner is SILVER the rest are gold ........

Got set of gold locking wilkinsons as replacements ... will see how it goes............
V epi 1.jpg

anyone need 5 gold grovers?????
or 1 silver one buwhahahahaha
 
Making progress (slowly) on my Tele project. Got the switch plate fabbed using carbon fiber. Tone and volume controls knobs are made from ebony as is the 3-way switch knob our RVA made for me. 1642364442274.jpeg
 
jtcnj said:
4 years later I finally did the mods to the Silkyn Super 50 to liven up the reverb and bring the not so good drive channel closer to the JCM800 circuit.
The v1 input grids were common originally and now are separated, treble peakers added, a cap change or add or two, and several resistor value changes. Got heat in some unintended places, grrr.
Havent cranked it up yet but the preamp OD is much smoother sounding.

Glad I waited as I know little, but a LOT more than I did then. The PCB still intimidates me but not as much.
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I originally met Kevin Paul in a forum post about a Silkyn amp in 2016...
 
Decided to dig this SG Special out this week. Spent a bunch of time time re-cutting the nut, adjusting the neck, and playing with the tailpiece and action overall. It's pretty good now. The fingerboard looks much nicer too. After a few coats of Fret Doctor, I couldn't believe how much junk it pulled out of the fingerboard. It's also significantly darker, but still a tad rough. For what is essentially still a new guitar(2019, and barely played), I can't believe how much work I have had to put into it. Almost as much as all my old guitars combined. I'll fine tune it a bit more over the weekend, now that it is off of the bench(for now).

SG Special on bench_03.jpg



SG Special on bench_04.jpg
 
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