Changing unknown gauge strings on a FR...

SIx String Chef

SIx String Chef

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I think this should be an easy one... just need confirmation from you savvy folk: I am about to change strings on my blue schecter (Marlene) for the first time since I bought it from a random guy. I never asked what gauge of strings he used. But I know what set I want to use. Going either for a plain vanilla 10-46 set or a more interesting Fat Bottom Skinny Top (10-13-17-30-42-52). I know, make up my mind, right?

So here's the question: Am I correct to assume that measuring the currently installed strings with a vernier caliper (in inches of course) should tell me the gauge of the strings? I'd like to be able to block the bridge on the right side from the get-go and keep it well-aligned.

All guidance, as usual, will be greatly appreciated! And please go easy on me... I'm still a noob in a few aspects... :p
 
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Why not just put on the strings you want and then set it up if it needs it? It should just be a matter of adjusting the claw screws a little one way or the other.

I saw a tutorial once on how to set a floating trem and I've done it myself, it works. You block it up where it sits level, put on the strings, tune it up stretch the strings and fine tune and all, then lock the nut and remove the blocks. If the trem raises up when you remove the blocks you tighten the claw until it goes back in tune, if it sinks when you remove the blocks then you loosen the claw screws until it goes back in tune. It's easy and it works great.
 
DirtySteve said:
Why not just put on the strings you want and then set it up if it needs it? It should just be a matter of adjusting the claw screws a little one way or the other.

I saw a tutorial once on how to set a floating trem and I've done it myself, it works. You block it up where it sits level, put on the strings, tune it up stretch the strings and fine tune and all, then lock the nut and remove the blocks. If the trem raises up when you remove the blocks you tighten the claw until it goes back in tune, if it sinks when you remove the blocks then you loosen the claw screws until it goes back in tune. It's easy and it works great.
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Yep exactly. Use the gauge you want it matters not what is on it currently. I have done exactly as @DirtySteve says many times. I also have changed one string at a time amd don't even block it instead of removing all the strings.
Adjust springs in back amd done.
 
SIx String Chef said:
I think this should be an easy one... just need confirmation from you savvy folk: I am about to change strings on my blue schecter (Marlene) for the first time since I bought it from a random guy. I never asked what gauge of strings he used. But I know what set I want to use. Going either for a plain vanilla 10-46 set or a more interesting Fat Bottom Skinny Top (10-13-17-30-42-52). I know, make up my mind, right?

So here's the question: Am I correct to assume that measuring the currently installed strings with a vernier caliper (in inches of course) should tell me the gauge of the strings? I'd like to be able to block the bridge on the right side from the get-go and keep it well-aligned.

All guidance, as usual, will be greatly appreciated! And please go easy on me... I'm still a noob in a few aspects... :p
Click to expand...


I was going to tell you not to ask Adrian, but I see I'm too late........
 
SIx String Chef said:
I think this should be an easy one... just need confirmation from you savvy folk: I am about to change strings on my blue schecter (Marlene) for the first time since I bought it from a random guy. I never asked what gauge of strings he used. But I know what set I want to use. Going either for a plain vanilla 10-46 set or a more interesting Fat Bottom Skinny Top (10-13-17-30-42-52). I know, make up my mind, right?

So here's the question: Am I correct to assume that measuring the currently installed strings with a vernier caliper (in inches of course) should tell me the gauge of the strings? I'd like to be able to block the bridge on the right side from the get-go and keep it well-aligned.

All guidance, as usual, will be greatly appreciated! And please go easy on me... I'm still a noob in a few aspects... :p
Click to expand...



I like to go with what the Manufacturer puts on their guitars gauge wise. Fortunately for me Godin uses 10-46 and my Custom had the nut cut for 10-46, that's what i like to use.
 
Floyds work better with a lighter string tension, unless you are just blocking it and using it as a hardtail

I actually run 9-46 strings in Eb on one of my Floyd Rose guitars, 11-56 in C standard on the other, only two springs on each.

You need to immobilise the trem float somehow before changing strings. The main issues with changing gauge are adjusting the tension of the springs to balance the tension of the strings, setting neck relief (as on any guitar), and setting intonation (this is an issue with any change of string gauge, but Floyd Rose style tremolos are trickier than regular bridges).

I actually have a good friend who is a guitar tech and a wiz with FR setups so I just take my guitar to him and get him to do it, as he always gives me mate's rates. Once the intonation etc is set I just change strings by blocking it after that.

There are several different specialist tools for setting intonation. Ibanez tremolos and Gotoh GE1996T tremolos use a specific one that can work with OFRs if modified. A lot of people prefer this Ibanez tool. There is also another one that works with OFRs. I don't own any of these. I just get Steve to do it if I am changing gauges.
 
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