I need to replace my front door and it confuses me...

Cadorman door.PNG

SO are you telling me this whole area in blue is only wood in the light color part and metal in the part to the right side of the side up to the blue line and beyond? Or is it somehow wood to the right of the weatherstrip and stops at the blue line and then it turns to metal?
 
YES u can fix that,
WAY EASIER than putting a new door in there. OR you can do it a more work way and put your new door in there without tearing out any of the metal or exterior trim, if what you said I asked was that I am right, The wood goes from the light color to the weatherstrip and then beyond until it reaches the metal.
 
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If the old door is perfectly fine, I would likely take a square and cut off above and below the damaged area. Then take my circular sawcircular saw vertically up the clean edge of the light color wood till I go just a little past the squared lines. Then get an Oscillating saw and use it to cut the horizontals and remove the rectangular piece. Then fabricate a new piece and either use a Biscuit Jointer or other form of making good joints and glue the heck out of it like Mitch said. Drill and rabbet out new holes for lockset, and install the strikers and it is a done deal.

Or if you prefer one continuous no joints visible repair, You could always cut out the light color wood strip the full height, and then table saw a new piece and install it and repeat my above finishing steps.
 
I'm going to do some measuring today. Maybe if the two door blanks are a close enough match I can swap them and use part of the new jamb to repair the old one.
 
Cadorman said:
I'm going to do some measuring today. Maybe if the two door blanks are a close enough match I can swap them and use part of the new jamb to repair the old one.
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I was going to suggest if you like the new door enough, there could be a way to actually retrofit the new one to the old.
As I told MItch, I sure wish I were there, you and I could sort it out and get a door you likely would never have known hadn't been there all along.
 
After measuring everything up, the door would fit fine in the existing frame. However, the hinges are all in the wrong locations as well as the deadbolt and knob. It would be way more work to rebuild the frame and route all the hardware versus ripping off the exterior trim to expose the mounting flange. I'm back in the city now and will pick up new 2x4 cedar and the pine to build out the jamb before I go back up.
 
It was 62 F up here today and the snow is almost all gone. Tomorrow the new door is finally going in.
20201104_161751.jpg

I removed the factory trim and installed it on edge to make up the 2 inch difference I needed for the 2 x 6 wall thickness. This is perfect. Warm enough to take the door off and no bugs!
 
Cadorman said:
After measuring everything up, the door would fit fine in the existing frame. However, the hinges are all in the wrong locations as well as the deadbolt and knob. It would be way more work to rebuild the frame and route all the hardware versus ripping off the exterior trim to expose the mounting flange. I'm back in the city now and will pick up new 2x4 cedar and the pine to build out the jamb before I go back up.
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I sort of suspected you might run into this scenario. It was worth a shot.
 
I have a thought... :hmmm:
Image result for pictures of dynamite sticks


Image result for Dynamite Sticks
 
iblive said:
This would work. Had a customer where I worked 40 years ago. He had a license to use dynamite. Guess one day he had a garden tractor that wouldn’t start. Yep. Blew it up. Landed on the other side of the house. True story. There were witnesses.
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I once watched a neighbor bust every window out of a 64 Impala, because it wouldn’t start !!:eek:
 
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