Fret level - a new experience

RVA

RVA

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Why would a fret level with a radius block result in the treble side losing much more fret material than the bass side?

It occurred more on the first 5 frets and then trailed off, becoming rather even again after the 12th fret. I checked the radius with gauges and used a trusted radius block that I have used on many occassions. I was also careful to keep the block running straight down the middle while leveling.

I guess neck twist. I also think I will be doing my first re-fret!!

Thanks for any enlightenment.
 
I would tear apart my guitars and put them back together, but other than polishing fret ends, I would never touch the frets. I just don't trust myself.

Maybe uneven sanding pressure???
 
Chubbles said:
I would tear apart my guitars and put them back together, but other than polishing fret ends, I would never touch the frets. I just don't trust myself.

Maybe uneven sanding pressure???
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I would gladly take the blame, but this is the first time this has happened in more than 30 levels I have done. Also, that would not account for the concentration of the issue in the first 5 frets.

I now know how to look for a twist and will go back to it soon.
 
Just the original shape of the neck - it had less of a radius at the nut end. That made the sanding take off metal from the ends preferentially. And also, because the contact are there was so much smaller the pressure was higher and it took off more metal.
 
DonP said:
Just the original shape of the neck - it had less of a radius at the nut end. That made the sanding take off metal from the ends preferentially. And also, because the contact are there was so much smaller the pressure was higher and it took off more metal.
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Thanks Don. Let's see how she plays.

Unfortunately, I really over-sanded because I wanted to hit the lowest spot, not realizing what I was doing. I was able to crown each fret, but barely was able to do so at the first.

I already ordered the appropriate fret wire. I had previously purchased pullers and nippers I never got to use.

Although I am upset I did not realize this sooner, this is the saga of the inexpensive guitar and the road to experience.

I greatly appreciate the advice.
 
RVA said:
Thanks Don. Let's see how she plays.

Unfortunately, I really over-sanded because I wanted to hit the lowest spot, not realizing what I was doing. I was able to crown each fret, but barely was able to do so at the first.

I already ordered the appropriate fret wire. I had previously purchased pullers and nippers I never got to use.

Although I am upset I did not realize this sooner, this is the saga of the inexpensive guitar and the road to experience.

I greatly appreciate the advice.
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I did exactly the same thing the first time I ever use a radius block. Now I will take a single preliminary swipe to see what is happening. If I don't like the look of it, I use a flat beam and just follow the existing radius as closely as I can.

It's surprising how hit-or-miss even expensive guitars are as they leave the factory. CNC-made guitars are much better.
 
DonP said:
I did exactly the same thing the first time I ever use a radius block. Now I will take a single preliminary swipe to see what is happening. If I don't like the look of it, I use a flat beam and just follow the existing radius as closely as I can.

It's surprising how hit-or-miss even expensive guitars are as they leave the factory. CNC-made guitars are much better.
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Thanks Don. At $140 for the guitar, it is a worthwhile lesson and a good candidate for my first re-fret. Nonetheless, I will still see if I can get it to play as-is. I really like the guitar and may order another one anyway so I have a clean slate!
 
If you are going to re-fret you can straighten things out. Once all the frets are out, use the radius block to sand the fretboard and you can remove all the twist and make it a much better guitar. You may need to buy a thin tenon saw to deepen some of the fret slots.
 
DonP said:
If you are going to re-fret you can straighten things out. Once all the frets are out, use the radius block to sand the fretboard and you can remove all the twist and make it a much better guitar. You may need to buy a thin tenon saw to deepen some of the fret slots.
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That sound appealing. The frets are 2.7mm, although I know this indicates the top and not the tang. What size saw do you recommend?
 
This post made me wonder if you have tore into one of your PRS guitars with the fret files and sanding blocks ??????
 
JohnnyGoo said:
This post made me wonder if you have tore into one of your PRS guitars with the fret files and sanding blocks ??????
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I have enough guitars that I have not had play wear on any of them. I do these with the less expensive guitars because they need the work out of the box. That said, I did level and crown my 1983 Strat Elite and it went well.
 
ok just wondered :) ya when you have alot of guitars it cuts down on wear and tear on any single one.
 
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DonP said:
If you are going to re-fret you can straighten things out. Once all the frets are out, use the radius block to sand the fretboard and you can remove all the twist and make it a much better guitar. You may need to buy a thin tenon saw to deepen some of the fret slots.
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Don, what do i do about the inlays when sanding the fret board to the appropriate radius?
 
RVA said:
Don, what do i do about the inlays when sanding the fret board to the appropriate radius?
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From your description you are going to take off pretty much nothing from the centre of the neck - it's all happening at the edges. The dots are going to be plastic, not mother-of-pearl, so they will sand along with the wood if necessary. I promise you won't sand through a dot.
 
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