Fuel-Fouled Spark Plugs in my Motorcycle

syscokid

syscokid

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I bought this bike new in 2002: Honda CBR600F4i. It has a whopping 242,880,000 feet of tearing up the asphalt. In other words... only 4,600 miles on it!

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Because I hardly ever ride it, I've gone through 5 batteries and use a little bit of fuel stabilizer to compensate in hanging on to it. I want to try one more time to get myself excited enough to ride it and justify paying for vehicle registration and insurance every year.

So, four days ago, since I needed to pickup some drugs, I unplugged the Battery Tender (trickle charger that doesn't overcharge) and went about for a very short ride... about 30 miles roundtrip. When I attempted to leave the pharmacy, the bike wouldn't start because of what sounded like a weak battery. A simple push-start got it going, but the bike never ran right after that. Low RPM and low speed roughness... the bike felt like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. Made it home. Next day, I siphoned out the old fuel in the tank and replaced it with fresh fuel and added some octane boost. Rode it for about 60 miles, cracked the throttle wide open where it was safe to do so a few times, but it still responded like poop plopping on more poop. The smell of a very rich mixture was everywhere!

The next day I decided to take a look at the plugs. But before I can fully access them, I realized what a cruel joke the Japanese have created in trying to get to the plugs on this S.O.B.… :BH:. After removing a bunch of plastics, you gotta unbolt the radiator and lower it a few inches. Reinstalling the radiator was even harder. And it's really hard doing all this while the bike is at ground level.
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:rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2:
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Anyways, spark plugs #2 and #3 were heavily soaked in fuel. The spark plugs have an iridium coating on them. Researching says: "Get rid of them when they are in this condition... don't bother cleaning them!" I tried to clean them anyways > reinstalled them > still ran like poop on poop. Ordered a new set of iridium plugs, but won't be here for another four days.

I'm hoping... I'm praying, that some fresh and clean plugs will be all that's needed. I hope that the deteriorated fuel hasn't gummed-up the lines or the fuel injection system. Also, I decoded a couple fuel injection fault codes displayed on the instrument panel. No fault codes currently, but the system's memory showed a problem with the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) and the TP sensor (Throttle Positioning). A bad TP sensor will definitely cause problems when opening the throttle. Maybe the old battery's weak output caused the fuel injection system to temporarily glitch up... :unsure: :confused2: :ohno: :cry:
 
THAT SUXS........
1. WHY are you going BACK with the same type plug? -- is it not prone to the same failure in future if you do?
2. 4,600 miles?!?!?!?!?!?!?! really?!?!?! Ill trade you a mesa for it ;)
3.-- batteries--- SUCK and drain quick on bikes--- may I suggest a SOLAR powered battery "tender" (or a regular one if you have access to a plug (outlet-- wall holes etc)

good looking crotch rocket Brother
 
eSGEe said:
THAT SUXS........
1. WHY are you going BACK with the same type plug? -- is it not prone to the same failure in future if you do?
2. 4,600 miles?!?!?!?!?!?!?! really?!?!?! Ill trade you a mesa for it ;)
3.-- batteries--- SUCK and drain quick on bikes--- may I suggest a SOLAR powered battery "tender" (or a regular one if you have access to a plug (outlet-- wall holes etc)
Click to expand...
1: The iridium plugs didn't fail on their own. They got soaked with too much gasoline. My theory is that the fuel injection system didn't operate or manage properly because of the weak battery. Those iridium plugs are designed to last 50,000 to 100,000 miles under normal conditions.

2: When I was in my 20's, I rode 4K to 5K miles a year just on Sundays alone. Seems like every 10 years my riding mileage gets cut in half. Last year I put in about 200 miles. This year, until a few days ago, maybe 50 miles.

3: The old battery was hooked up to a Battery Tender about 95% of the time. The old battery was also 3 years old.

eSGEe said:
good looking crotch rocket Brother
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
Cadorman said:
Sounds to me like it was a low voltage problem. That would cause the fault codes and poor running. However, the alternator should supply enough power to run the bike properly regardless of battery condition. You may have an alternator or voltage regulator issue.
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Yeah, you might be right. It makes a lot of sense about the alternator. I'm going to look into testing the bikes charging system.
 
Greg, YOU will likely be best served with a complete opening up the carbs and cleaning them out
I used to have to do this with my 85 Nighthawk due to varnish, and this was Pre Ethanol


OOPS< LOL JUST READ ABOUT FUEL INJECTED NEVER MIND DUMMY ME
 
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Semi-good news is that the bike's charging system seems to be doing its job. Before I fired up the bike, the battery measured 12.95v. Let the engine warm for a bit, and checked the battery again. With the high beams on, and revving the motor to 5K, the voltage went up to around 14.5v. Checked the stator at the wire connector, and the readings were up to spec. No new fuel injection fault codes either. Fresh spark plugs should arrive in three days.
 
eSGEe said:
3 years is max on a battery -- round these parts at least -- regardless of charging system or battery tender--
heat and humidity are far worse than cold on batteries
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Well, you could buy a battery made in the U.S.A. There's some good ones out of Pennsylvania.
 
how much? $$$
I get 3 years out of a battery that costs 39.55 from batteryrush.com

thats a little over 10.00 a year .... how those Pencil-tucky batteries stack up annually speaking?

Hi Adrian

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Cadorman said:
Well, you could buy a battery made in the U.S.A. There's some good ones out of Pennsylvania.
Click to expand...

eSGEe said:
how much? $$$
I get 3 years out of a battery that costs 39.55 from batteryrush.com

thats a little over 10.00 a year .... how those Pencil-tucky batteries stack up annually speaking?
Click to expand...
The OEM battery is a (MIJ) Yuasa YTZ10. They are about $120. I would have bought one, but the logistics dictated by the current pandemic has made the search for a Yuasa locally impossible. The local Autozone had an equivalent Duralast (Made in Taiwan) for $94.

What was interesting about the Duralast battery, is that it came in a kit form. The battery's electrolyte was packaged separately from the battery. Had to pour the juice into the battery cells and give it a quick charge. It got a little stinky while the juices were flowing in there... :sick:.
 
Troubleshooting any gas motor one spark test two compression test three fuel in that order
spark test weak coil or stator could be a spark plug. compression test leaky valves piston rings scuffed cylinder head gasket
if you have good spark good compression next is fuel system one drop of water in the fuel will kill an injector.
and it could be a sensor fail or fuel pump diaphragm blown leaking in that cylinder common on outboard's not sure on the bikes
on EFI motors you have a low pressure fuel pump and a high pressure fuel pump they need to be tested
now if you change spark plugs and have the same issue swap the injectors warning you do not want to run it with a leaky injector it will scuff the
piston and cylinder. for spark test I use a neon spark tester compression I use a aircraft cylinder leak down tester hold the cylinder at TDC
pressurize with air if leaking more than 5% intake valve you can hear the air from the air intake exhaust valve exhaust pipe rings or scuffed cylinder
oil sump hope this helps.
 
67plexi said:
Troubleshooting any gas motor one spark test two compression test three fuel in that order
spark test weak coil or stator could be a spark plug. compression test leaky valves piston rings scuffed cylinder head gasket
if you have good spark good compression next is fuel system one drop of water in the fuel will kill an injector.
and it could be a sensor fail or fuel pump diaphragm blown leaking in that cylinder common on outboard's not sure on the bikes
on EFI motors you have a low pressure fuel pump and a high pressure fuel pump they need to be tested
now if you change spark plugs and have the same issue swap the injectors warning you do not want to run it with a leaky injector it will scuff the
piston and cylinder. for spark test I use a neon spark tester compression I use a aircraft cylinder leak down tester hold the cylinder at TDC
pressurize with air if leaking more than 5% intake valve you can hear the air from the air intake exhaust valve exhaust pipe rings or scuffed cylinder
oil sump hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Thanks. If the new plugs doesn't clear up the issue, I'm taking the bike to more "Qualified Personnel"... :wink:
 
I gave up and threw in the towel that was attached to my tail that I've been chasing... :BH: . As of yesterday, the bike is at a reputable repair shop. I'm guessing it's the fuel pressure regulator, but I never got to it nor test it. I'll definitely be posting the results after I get the bike back.
 
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