Attention Vette Lovers

We use to build Chrysler Industrial Hemis (no joke) and 391 CID Fords for wind machines in and around the areas where we lived. These had the engines 45 feet up on a rotating tower swinging a 66" prop at 2900 propeller RPm and 4800-5200 engine rpm. There was a local wind machine company that built the engines, and they were having a lot of failures, so a local grower - whom we supplied with stock car engines - asked dad if we would build a wind machine engine for him that would hold up.

Towt Wind Machine.jpg

We approached this like any other endurance engine that we built. Correct clearances, excellent quality parts, zero-decked block, correctly jetted and total timing held to 34° to 36° BTDC. We used Shell Rotella T for these engines in a 15w/40 grade which worked well in the sub zero temperatures.

I designed the camshafts for these engines to be very easy on the valvetrain. The camshafts featured 444"/.454" lift and 207°/211° @ .050" on a 111.5° LSA . they were custom ground for us by Iskenderian, who was our sponsor at the time. Valve spring pressures were held below 300 lbs open pressure and 110 pounds seated. Everything was coated with black moly paste during assembly as was the SOP for all our engines.

Once we got the engine built, we took it out to the grove and had it hoisted into place. Once everything was ready, I donned ear muffs and fired the engine, bringing engine RPM to 2200 until we had 180°F coolan temps. As soon as we hit 180°, I took the engine to WOT several times to seat the rings, then up to 4800 crankshaft rpm and held it there for 1 hour. The wash off that 66" prop was over 100mph and you had to stay strapped onto the tower or it would blow you off of it.

That's how we broke them in. Several are still running that we built years ago, although most groves are using electrics now - we never lost an engine and we broke them in exactly as they were to be used.

No quarter...

RHRE Logo 1980  (1).JPG
 
Last edited:
My colleague's 2018 Gran Sport Corvette lost three engines...he's 75.

First at 5,000 - broken rod

Next motor went 7,500 - crank broke at center main bearing

Next motor dropped a valve in #8 after 3,500 miles.

GM fixed them under warranty citing 'structural-metalurgical failure' on his warranty invoices.

Currently, he has about 10,000 on engine #4 and he's looking for something new.

Well it's reassuring to hear that GM stood by their warranty.
We broke every car in by WOT...we never knew any better i guess...

I've been away from the professional automotive repair business for 30 years and I'm sure a lot has changed since the days when I worked at Mercedes Benz, BMW and Maserati dealerships as a factory certified automotive technician. However, as I recall, the tolerances for a race engine were different than what was to be used as a daily driver on the street. For example a top fuel dragster has no radiator and was not warmed up before a race just to ensure that the tighter clearances did not over expand and seize the engine. After each run and engine may have pistons, rods and bearings replaced as needed. It has always been my understanding that a fresh (street) engine needs to break in. Rings need to seat, bearings need to seat and in this process small pieces of metal find their way into the non-detergent oil thereby requiring the oil to be changed at roughly 600 miles to remove the impurities. My own personal practice for breaking in a new engine is to take it for a long test drive, perfect time for a road trip. However I don't put the engine on cruise control at a steady RPM, I vary the speed to different RPMs throughout the ride, but never taking it to red line. On a motor with a 6k redline I keep it at or under 3k RPM during break in. After 600 miles I change the conventional non-detergent break in oil & filter, replace it with another 5 qts break in oil and run it another 600 miles allowing the motor to red line occasionally, but not constantly. After the second 600 miles I drop the oil and filter again and replace the oil with Mobile 1 fully synthetic which is changed regularly, but always replaced with the same. To each is own on how they service their vehicle, but this is how I treat my equipment.
 
Last edited:
Well it's reassuring to hear that GM stood by their warranty.


I've been away from the professional automotive repair business for 30 years and I'm sure a lot has changed since the days when I worked at Mercedes Benz, BMW and Maserati dealerships as a factory certified automotive technician. However, as I recall, the tolerances for a race engine were different than what was to be used as a daily driver on the street. For example a top fuel dragster has no radiator and was not warmed up before a race just to ensure that the tighter clearances did not over expand and seize the engine. After each run and engine may have pistons, rods and bearings replaced as needed. It has always been my understanding that a fresh (street) engine needs to break in. Rings need to seat, bearings need to seat and in this process small pieces of metal find their way into the non-detergent oil thereby requiring the oil to be changed at roughly 600 miles to remove the impurities. My own personal practice for breaking in a new engine is to take it for a long test drive, perfect time for a road trip. However I don't put the engine on cruise control at a steady RPM, I vary the speed to different RPMs throughout the ride, but never taking it to red line. On a motor with a 6k redline I keep it at or under 3k RPM during break in. After 600 miles I change the conventional non-detergent break in oil & filter, replace it with another 5 qts break in oil and run it another 600 miles allowing the motor to red line occasionally, but not constantly. After the second 600 miles I drop the oil and filter again and replace the oil with Mobile 1 fully synthetic which is changed regularly, but always replaced with the same. To each is own on how they service their vehicle, but this is how I treat my equipment.
100% correct Grant I retired from the marine industry I was factory certified in every marine engine brand every serial numbered product
has a PDI inspection form then a 20 hour inspection if not the warranty is void it was also my duty to educate the customer's on proper break in procedures it's in the factory manuals I'm sure it is in automotive also.
 
Agreed!

And with todays techno there are oils made specifically for break ins..
And during the break in phase, I change oil like I change my shorts!

Where do these fools think all the metal goes when things are seating in...?

They get what they deserve...Ya dog it, it will dog ya wallet right back...:pound-hand:

I honestly do not feel sorry for them when it fails..I say bring it to me and I will fix your stupid mistake for a COST...

With an A$$ hole fee added on..:rolf:


Chris I hope you are changing your shorts daily..:LOL:
 
Well it's reassuring to hear that GM stood by their warranty.


I've been away from the professional automotive repair business for 30 years and I'm sure a lot has changed since the days when I worked at Mercedes Benz, BMW and Maserati dealerships as a factory certified automotive technician. However, as I recall, the tolerances for a race engine were different than what was to be used as a daily driver on the street. For example a top fuel dragster has no radiator and was not warmed up before a race just to ensure that the tighter clearances did not over expand and seize the engine. After each run and engine may have pistons, rods and bearings replaced as needed. It has always been my understanding that a fresh (street) engine needs to break in. Rings need to seat, bearings need to seat and in this process small pieces of metal find their way into the non-detergent oil thereby requiring the oil to be changed at roughly 600 miles to remove the impurities. My own personal practice for breaking in a new engine is to take it for a long test drive, perfect time for a road trip. However I don't put the engine on cruise control at a steady RPM, I vary the speed to different RPMs throughout the ride, but never taking it to red line. On a motor with a 6k redline I keep it at or under 3k RPM during break in. After 600 miles I change the conventional non-detergent break in oil & filter, replace it with another 5 qts break in oil and run it another 600 miles allowing the motor to red line occasionally, but not constantly. After the second 600 miles I drop the oil and filter again and replace the oil with Mobile 1 fully synthetic which is changed regularly, but always replaced with the same. To each is own on how they service their vehicle, but this is how I treat my equipment.

Donavans and Keith Blacks are a totally different category altogether.

We also never broke anything in on an 'SA' engine oil - we used the same oil that the engine would receive in service.

Bearings don't seat. The oil film keeps them from touching the crankshaft. Loose tolerances were the lazy approach. We set everything up fairly close.

The point is, we drove them from minute 1 in the exact conditions they would see in actual service. If that was swinging a prop at 4800, that's how we broke them in.

Correct tuning is critical to managing temperatures. Not such a big deal now with a laptop, but with multiple carbs it was challenging.
 
My own personal practice for breaking in a new engine is to take it for a long test drive, perfect time for a road trip. However I don't put the engine on cruise control at a steady RPM, I vary the speed to different RPMs throughout the ride, but never taking it to red line. On a motor with a 6k redline I keep it at or under 3k RPM during break in. After 600 miles I change the conventional non-detergent break in oil & filter, replace it with another 5 qts break in oil and run it another 600 miles allowing the motor to red line occasionally, but not constantly. After the second 600 miles I drop the oil and filter again and replace the oil with Mobile 1 fully synthetic which is changed regularly, but always replaced with the same. To each is own on how they service their vehicle, but this is how I treat my equipment.

Nothing wrong with that approach, although i feel 'SA' is inadequate for higher temp use. We haven't used non detergents since the 1970's. If it was gonna get Valvoline 20/50 in service, that's what we broke it in on...
 
Last edited:
For example a top fuel dragster has no radiator and was not warmed up before a race just to ensure that the tighter clearances did not over expand and seize the engine.

I have some experience with servicing top fuel cars. Jim Murphy's 'Holy Smokes' was one such car. I learned what i know hanging out and helping Tim Beebe of 'The Fighting Irish' funny car fame at his shop in my hometown.

Top fuel engines have no provision for a water jacket. The block is milled from a solid piece of aluminum. Same with the heads No water passages. Just a solid block of aluminum. This is for strength. No other reason.

Clearances in a Donovan or Keith Black are actually very loose. The aluminum rods grow significantly, as do the other internal parts.

They also run a very heavy oil to keep the lower end alive. The oil du jour is Kendall Nitro 70 - SAE 70 viscosity and its crude based too...not synthetic.

One fellow i grew up with is currently crew chief on the "Jailbreak" funny car. We turned a lot of wrenches together...
 
Back
Top