Best Floyd Rose Model???

smitty_p said:
Dive only?

Is that inherent in the design, or just how it was set up on your guitar?

I have a Kahler that I haven't installed on anything, yet. Now, I feel like I need to install it on something just to see what I can make it do.

Hmmm...the Washburn has a solid center block, and I have the stud-mount Kahler....

This is it:

View attachment 32008

"Here, Washy, Washy....

Daddy's got a present for you!

I promise you won't feel a thing...until you wake up!"
Click to expand...

As I understand it, Kahlers are dive only by design...
 
I'm discovering that not all Floyd's are tuning stable. It's apparently like guitars - some are great and some are not!!!
 
Robert Herndon said:
I'm discovering that not all Floyd's are tuning stable. It's apparently like guitars - some are great and some are not!!!
Click to expand...
Absolutely.
The licensed copies sold on so many budget or even "intermediate" guitars are frequently inferior. Mainly it is the cheaper / softer metals the plate and posts are made from.
Even among the actual FR line the budget versions are just not as good as the Original (or so I hear).

I know both the licensed low-profile style ones I have or had just dont stay in tune well when floated.
This is very common from what I have read on Jackson and Ibanez forums.

Both of mine are used; maybe they were great when new.
I have read it its better to run the string tension down before adjusting the height to help avoid damaging the posts / knife edges.
Maybe not doing that is what FUBARS so many of them.

The one on my Jackson works well now - it is set up with a trem strop for dive only.
Just recently I increased the spring pressure at the claw a bit.
This would pull the plate down if it was floating.
 
It's a combination of cheaper materials and the young guitarist's ethic of "don't replace strings until they snap" that causes most problems with low-end licensed Floyds, although the same thing will often happen eventually if they have a richer father and get a more expensive Floyd, the metal just takes longer to wear out due to the inevitable abuse.

Floyds are best used by adults who are not too cheap/stupid to change their strings when they start to constantly go a few cents flat (a sure sign that the wound strings are starting to fail).

My Schecter Stiletto 6-FR had cheap FR in it and was owned by a kid whose father knew jack about guitars, hence it was munted. Replaced it with a Gotoh GE1996T and I change strings regularly, so no problems at all.

I suspect the floating tremolo in my nephew's Ibanez is also munted, but I can't get the little turd to change the strings and his dad doesn't understand the problem at all.
 
Dave Sloven said:
It's a combination of cheaper materials and the young guitarist's ethic of "don't replace strings until they snap" that causes most problems with low-end licensed Floyds, although the same thing will often happen eventually if they have a richer father and get a more expensive Floyd, the metal just takes longer to wear out due to the inevitable abuse.

Floyds are best used by adults who are not too cheap/stupid to change their strings when they start to constantly go a few cents flat (a sure sign that the wound strings are starting to fail).

My Schecter Stiletto 6-FR had cheap FR in it and was owned by a kid whose father knew jack about guitars, hence it was munted. Replaced it with a Gotoh GE1996T and I change strings regularly, so no problems at all.

I suspect the floating tremolo in my nephew's Ibanez is also munted, but I can't get the little turd to change the strings and his dad doesn't understand the problem at all.
Click to expand...

I have zero issues with this Floyd Rose Special, but it's also new. I'm looking really hard at an upgrade...maybe even an original Floyd baseplate and build my own from scratch???

What's the main benefit of the Gotoh???
 
My habit is to use .009 x .046 strings. I have read where the Floys was designed for .009 x .042.

Thoughts???
 
Main benefits of the Gotoh are overall build quality, materials, design (including ergonomics and the trem arm bushing) and price. The price is actually excellent for everything you get, including a brass block.
 
The brass block by itself is US$17 (plus postage), so basically the rest is $100.

Actually you can get the chrome version as cheap as US$95 with everything (plus postage).

www.ebay.com.au

BRAND NEW! Gotoh GE1996T Floyd Rose Locking Tremolo Bridge for Guitar - CHROME | eBay Australia

A patented stud lock makes the trem feel more solid and eliminates the studs turning in the inserts after setup. The internally threaded trem arm is adjustable for swing away tension. - Includes all mounting hardware (springs, trem claw and mounting studs) and tremolo arm.
www.ebay.com.au

$110 for Cosmo Black

www.ebay.com.au

NEW Gotoh GE1996T Floyd Rose Locking Tremolo Bridge Guitar - COSMO BLACK | eBay Australia

A patented stud lock makes the trem feel more solid and eliminates the studs turning in the inserts after setup. The internally threaded trem arm is adjustable for swing away tension. - Includes all mounting hardware (springs, trem claw and mounting studs) and tremolo arm.
www.ebay.com.au

Black is the same, Gold is another $5 again
 
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You just need to measure your block from where it mounts on to the bottom of your tremolo to the edge where the springs connect.
 
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