Gibson Wire Harnesses:

It is the side wall where it touches and shorts out, rather than against the cavity cover. You can put tape over the copper tape, it doesn't affect the shield underneath. You can also paint on 'liquid tape'
 
Dave Sloven said:
It is the side wall where it touches and shorts out, rather than against the cavity cover. You can put tape over the copper tape, it doesn't affect the shield underneath. You can also paint on 'liquid tape'
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Gibson rep told me they made a deeper switch recess in 2015-up on the SG's...IMG_20170121_8377.jpg
 
Is it not possible to turn the jack sufficiently that nothing touches? Or even bend the lugs in a bit?
 
Just to clarify here is a photo of my cavity showing the area where the problem occurrred. I just lifted the jack up, put some electrical tape in there, and all was sweet thereafter. You might also notice the conductive paint under the copper slug tape. The paint was running out and I didn't have enough to ensure a complete shield so I went over it with the slug tape. Rough and ready but very functional. I painted down the connecting channel, which avoided the need for a wire connecting the cavity shields

9vLAXDB.jpg
 
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Dave Sloven said:
Just to clarify here is a photo of my cavity showing the area where the problem occurrred. I just lifted the jack up, put some electrical tape in there, and all was sweet thereafter. You might also notice the conductive paint under the copper slug tape. The paint was running out and I didn't have enough to ensure a complete shield so I went over it with the slug tape. Rough and ready but very functional. I painted down the connecting channel, which avoided the need for a wire connecting the cavity shields

9vLAXDB.jpg
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I see!!!!! Thanks for the photo! !!
 
Gahr said:
Are you doing the winding by hand, or do you have some sort of machine to do it with? I imagine it's going to take a while by hand...
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Yes...by hand...and it's still very tedious....I got a hand-driven Chinese winder with a counter...but you end up making your own jigs...I'm scatter winding these two humbuckers...
 
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Problems again....
Dave Sloven said:
Just to clarify here is a photo of my cavity showing the area where the problem occurrred. I just lifted the jack up, put some electrical tape in there, and all was sweet thereafter. You might also notice the conductive paint under the copper slug tape. The paint was running out and I didn't have enough to ensure a complete shield so I went over it with the slug tape. Rough and ready but very functional. I painted down the connecting channel, which avoided the need for a wire connecting the cavity shields

9vLAXDB.jpg
Click to expand...


PROBLEMS....

Need some technical support. My 2016 Gibson SG has holes a little larger than 3/8" for the pots, but smaller than the .406" shoulder on the Bournes pots. The input jack holes measures .460" and the selector switch measures .500" respectively.The selector switch looks to be the same as the one on the circuit board.

My stock (circuit board) Switchcraft input jack is 3/8" in diameter, has no shoulder and the threads are 3/8" long. This jack cannot be removed from the board (easily} and the surface-mount switch is quite different than the wire harness version. The Tone Man harness has an input jack with 3/8" threads, but the threaded section is only .260" long with a .460" shoulder. The opening in the guitar for the input jack is only .440" in diameter. Even if I enlarge the hole for the input jack to accept the .460" shoulder, the .260" threaded portion may not be enough to accept a retaining nut, due to the thickness of the wood in this opening.

FYI, The Bourns website recommends a .411" hole for their potentiometers with a .406" shoulder.

I did not think I would need to drill/ream the USA Gibson body. I can do it, but wanted to bounce this off you guys before I dig into it.

Thanks...
 
smitty_p said:
I'm curious. Supposedly, scatter winding results in a little less capacitance distributed in the coil, resulting in a little more treble from the pickup.

I thought you preferred something darker.
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Have a look at my post above, Smitty....
 
Did you measure the threaded section of the output jack to see if the .260" will be long enough? I'd hesitate to ream away additional wood from the body to allow the .460 shoulder to be recessed into the body. Can you try test fitting to see if the output jack extends through?

As for the Bourns pots, I had to do that with my Washburn when I replaced all the electronics. The Bourns were wider than the stock pots. I went ahead and enlarged the holes. I didn't care because that was an imported guitar and of minimal value. I believe CTS pots use a narrower threaded portion.
 
smitty_p said:
Did you measure the threaded section of the output jack to see if the .260" will be long enough? I'd hesitate to ream away additional wood from the body to allow the .460 shoulder to be recessed into the body. Can you try test fitting to see if the output jack extends through?

As for the Bourns pots, I had to do that with my Washburn when I replaced all the electronics. The Bourns were wider than the stock pots. I went ahead and enlarged the holes. I didn't care because that was an imported guitar and of minimal value. I believe CTS pots use a narrower threaded portion.
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Excellent catch!!!

I can just start the nut about two threads on the .260" input jack, so if the shoulder drops into place, that will yield an additional .062" of penetration....
 
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