Peavey 3-button footswitches (5150 II / 6505+ / 6534+ / XXX / JSX / XXX II / 3120)

[Dave Sloven]

Okay so I pulled apart the footswitches for my 6534+ and JSX and tested them, discovering some interesting things.

First of all, the JSX footswitch works on both the JSX and the 6534+, but the 6534+ footswitch only works on the 6534+ properly, on the JSX it only works for the centre switch ('crunch' operates the 'clean' switch, but not the other two to the sides).

Looking at the two units I am having trouble telling one circuit board apart from the other, besides the different coloured LEDs. It might be the case that the small board with the DIN socket is different. But that wouldn't explain why the JSX footswitch worked for both and the 6534+ one didn't.

The 6505+ and 6534+ footswitches are identical and differ from the 5150 II footswitch only in the change from the EVH era Peavey markings.

The JSX and XXX footswitches are identical and differ from the 3120 and XXX II only in that the 'Ultra' channel was renamed the 'Lead' channel.

Here are some photos:

6505+/6534+:

XXX/JSX:

My apologies for the nerdy thread topic but I couldn't find any internal photos of these foot switches online and as my posts on this forum often turn up in Google searches I thought it might be useful to someone.

 

[Inspector #20]

Okay so I pulled apart the footswitches for my 6534+ and JSX and tested them, discovering some interesting things.

First of all, the JSX footswitch works on both the JSX and the 6534+, but the 6534+ footswitch only works on the 6534+ properly, on the JSX it only works for the centre switch ('crunch' operates the 'clean' switch, but not the other two to the sides).

Looking at the two units I am having trouble telling one circuit board apart from the other, besides the different coloured LEDs. It might be the case that the small board with the DIN socket is different. But that wouldn't explain why the JSX footswitch worked for both and the 6534+ one didn't.

The 6505+ and 6534+ footswitches are identical and differ from the 5150 II footswitch only in the change from the EVH era Peavey markings.

The JSX and XXX footswitches are identical and differ from the 3120 and XXX II only in that the 'Ultra' channel was renamed the 'Lead' channel.

Here are some photos:

6505+/6534+:

XXX/JSX:

My apologies for the nerdy thread topic but I couldn't find any internal photos of these foot switches online and as my posts on this forum often turn up in Google searches I thought it might be useful to someone.

That's why I post some of my stuff...hoping it helps somebody

 

[syscokid]

My apologies for the nerdy thread topic but I couldn't find any internal photos of these foot switches online and as my posts on this forum often turn up in Google searches I thought it might be useful to someone.

I totally agree with your reasoning about posting pics like these. It's one of the motivations that makes me want to post my pics. Good job...

 

[Dave Sloven]

Okay, so I've done some more investigating on this.

My experimental results with the cables and footswitches were just coincidence, it turns out that the differences between the two pedals is purely cosmetic, so that the LEDs are in different positions and the text and logos on the top cover are different. It was the cable that came with the JSX that was the issue. It seems that it is intermittently faulty. The cable from my 6534+ works fine with both amps and footswitches.

So the footswitches operate the same way, which one would expect, looking at the traces on the PCBs. Right button acts like right button on each, centre button like centre button, and left buttion lke left button. I was able to switch between crunch and ultra on the JSX with the left button of the 6534+ footswitch, engage or bypass the clean channel on the JSX with the centre button, and engage or disengage the effects loop of the JSX with the right button.

Now I just need a good source for 7-pin DIN cables ... Fender dealers are probably the best bet, as the EVH amps use 7-pin DIN.

 

[cdawg22]

I just scored a USA made 6505+. Didn't have the footswitch. Is it so that the FS from the JSX, XXX, 3120, 5150, 6534+ will all work? I found one online for $73. Is that a decent price? That price includes a 25' cable with 7 pin DIN.

 

[cdawg22]

Okay, so I've done some more investigating on this.

My experimental results with the cables and footswitches were just coincidence, it turns out that the differences between the two pedals is purely cosmetic, so that the LEDs are in different positions and the text and logos on the top cover are different. It was the cable that came with the JSX that was the issue. It seems that it is intermittently faulty. The cable from my 6534+ works fine with both amps and footswitches.

So the footswitches operate the same way, which one would expect, looking at the traces on the PCBs. Right button acts like right button on each, centre button like centre button, and left buttion lke left button. I was able to switch between crunch and ultra on the JSX with the left button of the 6534+ footswitch, engage or bypass the clean channel on the JSX with the centre button, and engage or disengage the effects loop of the JSX with the right button.

Now I just need a good source for 7-pin DIN cables ... Fender dealers are probably the best bet, as the EVH amps use 7-pin DIN.

Here's one that's 9ft.. www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQR5L1C?psc=1&pf_rd_p=353e4c0d-d3b2-4745-8e6f-c332615c1250&pf_rd_r=S647A9SAVYM0KAK885BE&pd_rd_wg=MRp5e&pd_rd_i=B01CQR5L1C&pd_rd_w=Vu9KQ&pd_rd_r=aa15dd7c-3c86-482a-a3aa-a0694dc9cc93&ref_=pd_luc_rh_pd_l

 

[Dave Sloven]

I bought the Fender cable for a good price (under $30 AUD) from Derringers

 

[Dave Sloven]

I just scored a USA made 6505+. Didn't have the footswitch. Is it so that the FS from the JSX, XXX, 3120, 5150, 6534+ will all work? I found one online for $73. Is that a decent price? That price includes a 25' cable with 7 pin DIN.

The footswitch from any of those will work, besides the 5150, but I am assuming you mean the 5150 II, which is the same as the 6505+ and 6534+ except for the logo etc. Only differences between the JSX / XXX, XXX2 / 3120, and 6505+ / 6534+ / 5150 II switches are the labelling of the functions and the colours of the LEDs. The switch in the same position on each footswitch will operate the same function on a specific amp. The functions and LEDs on the JSX / XXX and XXX2 / 3120 switches are the same, just that 'Ultra' was changed to 'Lead' on the later amps and the 3120s with gold lettering have the same on the footswitch. The 5150 II is the same as the 6505+ / 6534+ switch (there is no separate 6534+ unit, these are identical) except for the different Peavey logo etc. The circuit boards in all of these switches is the same except for the colours of the LEDs.

The recent Butcher amp has a totally different footswitch with five buttons, and looks like this:

 

[cdawg22]

I bought the Fender cable for a good price (under $30 AUD) from Derringers

Cool. I stumbled across it when I was looking for the FS so I thought I'd share the link with you. I didn't compare with any other outlets.

 

[cdawg22]

The footswitch from any of those will work, besides the 5150, but I am assuming you mean the 5150 II, which is the same as the 6505+ and 6534+ except for the logo etc. Only differences between the JSX / XXX, XXX2 / 3120, and 6505+ / 6534+ / 5150 II switches are the labelling of the functions and the colours of the LEDs. The switch in the same position on each footswitch will operate the same function on a specific amp. The functions and LEDs on the JSX / XXX and XXX2 / 3120 switches are the same, just that 'Ultra' was changed to 'Lead' on the later amps and the 3120s with gold lettering have the same on the footswitch. The 5150 II is the same as the 6505+ / 6534+ switch (there is no separate 6534+ unit, these are identical) except for the different Peavey logo etc. The circuit boards in all of these switches is the same except for the colours of the LEDs.

The recent Butcher amp has a totally different footswitch with five buttons, and looks like this:

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[ums]

Thanks for the details on this switch (and it's related switches).
I have a follow up question about the 5150 Mk II that I'm wondering if anyone can share some insight on... Specifically, the high gain switch is acting unreliably. Anyone know how to mitigate this? (see video link)

 

[LiveeviL2000]

So if you touch the LED light on the footswitch itself, it makes the channel light on the amp flicker on along with the LED on the footswitch? I’m assuming it also makes your amp switch channels while touching it.

 

[Sapient]

 

[ums]

So if you touch the LED light on the footswitch itself, it makes the channel light on the amp flicker on along with the LED on the footswitch? I’m assuming it also makes your amp switch channels while touching it.

Correct - the light flickers along with the channel itself. The light is of little concern to me, it is the ability to channel switch (and remain on the desired channel) that I want. I can't tell if this is a circuit board issue, a soldering issue, a pot issue, or a cable issue.

 

[Thatbastarddon]

Correct - the light flickers along with the channel itself. The light is of little concern to me, it is the ability to channel switch (and remain on the desired channel) that I want. I can't tell if this is a circuit board issue, a soldering issue, a pot issue, or a cable issue.

Tough to tell…and Dave doesn’t seem to be around to ask, unfortunately…I can’t even seem to tag him(weird). Guessing that the polarity to that circuit on the footswitch may be reversed somewhere. Touching the light is shorting the circuit to ground(somehow)…again…weird. Whether it’s at the pins, the small board that the pins are wired to, or on from there…would be speculation on my part… but the behavior would suggest what I mentioned. Sorry, I’m not of much help.

 

[ums]

Tough to tell…and Dave doesn’t seem to be around to ask, unfortunately…I can’t even seem to tag him(weird). Guessing that the polarity to that circuit on the footswitch may be reversed somewhere. Touching the light is shorting the circuit to ground(somehow)…again…weird. Whether it’s at the pins, the small board that the pins are wired to, or on from there…would be speculation on my part… but the behavior would suggest what I mentioned. Sorry, I’m not of much help.

Thank you anyhow!

 

[Don O]

I’m guessing it’s a cold solder joint on the LED. Looking at Dave’s pics it looks like the footswitch and LED are in series and I’m guessing it’s switching to ground. Push the footswitch once (I’m assuming it is closed/on in the video) and then touch the LED. If the LED does not light, meaning the footswitch is now open, just reflow the solder on the LED legs.

 

[ums]

I’m guessing it’s a cold solder joint on the LED. Looking at Dave’s pics it looks like the footswitch and LED are in series and I’m guessing it’s switching to ground. Push the footswitch once (I’m assuming it is closed/on in the video) and then touch the LED. If the LED does not light, meaning the footswitch is now open, just reflow the solder on the LED legs.

Thank you for the intel!
I'll try this. I'm not too confident with a soldering gun but what have I got to lose?
And just to understand - you're positing that the two posts sticking out of the back of the red LED, which go through the circuit board and are then soldered into place on the reverse side of the board, have bad solder points and need to be redone in order to make them "clean".
This pedal worked for some time, is this something that "goes bad"? (I ask mainly because it looks pretty clean and the pedal hasn't really been beat up - and also the other two switches seem to look just as clean and they work fine.)

 

[Don O]

Thank you for the intel!
I'll try this. I'm not too confident with a soldering gun but what have I got to lose?
And just to understand - you're positing that the two posts sticking out of the back of the red LED, which go through the circuit board and are then soldered into place on the reverse side of the board, have bad solder points and need to be redone in order to make them "clean".
This pedal worked for some time, is this something that "goes bad"? (I ask mainly because it looks pretty clean and the pedal hasn't really been beat up - and also the other two switches seem to look just as clean and they work fine.)

Cold solder joints can occur on any electronic device (yes they can just go bad). Normally ya just have to reheat the solder and let it reflow around the LED post and the circuit board holes with the copper plating on them.

 

[ums]

I THINK IT IS FIXED! I simply re-heated the solder points on that one LED (and the two points on the switch itself, for good measure), and now it works! I'll give it a more rigorous test with more actual stomping tomorrow but as of now 17:44 PST it works.
Thank you very much @Don O , and everyone else who chimed in.
UPDATE: next day and it still works!