Tone Man or Siglar???
Components are all the same...thoughts???
Components are all the same...thoughts???
Gibson Wire Harnesses:
- Thread starter Inspector #20
- Start date
OP
Cool...
Folks say Orange Drops have a tighter, more "clinical" the than PIOs, such as K42Y.
What do you think???
OP
Tell me more about your SG setup....do you have the late style, small cavity like this????
ChasFred
Ambassador of Smooth Operations
As a person in the electronic repair field for the past 40 years, I will say Bournes pots pots are the best. As far as caps go some people can hear the difference and some can not. Get a pair of each, PIO and Orange Drop and compare for yourself. Thats my 2 cents.
OP
Thanks, Goo...Sorry about that....
OP
I agree..Bournes pots are good quality...I'm trying to figure out which to order with a custom harness....
ninjaking67
Ambassador of Good Will
Sp8ctre,
Do the Bournes pots have the same splines as CTS pots? In other words, do the USA knobs fit the Bournes pots?
OP
Tone Man just told me yes....
ninjaking67
Ambassador of Good Will
Thanks Robert.
OP
After months of trying to get by with the Gibson PCB, I've given up....
Looks like I'm going with a custom harness...
Bournes 500k pots,
(2) audio taper potentiometers (volume)
(2) linear taper potentiometers (tone)
1 – PIO K40Y-9 Russian .033uf / 400v Capacitor (Bridge Tone Cap)
1 - PIO K40Y-9 Russian .015uf / 400v Capacitor (Neck Tone Cap)
1 - Switchcraft 3-Way Right Angle Toggle Switch with black tip
1 - Switchcraft 1/4 Output Jack
1 – 50’s style cloth push back 22awg wiring through out
Funny....I have spent more on this 2016 Gibson SG in 3 months than on my 1987 Stratocaster in 30 years....
Looks like I'm going with a custom harness...
Bournes 500k pots,
(2) audio taper potentiometers (volume)
(2) linear taper potentiometers (tone)
1 – PIO K40Y-9 Russian .033uf / 400v Capacitor (Bridge Tone Cap)
1 - PIO K40Y-9 Russian .015uf / 400v Capacitor (Neck Tone Cap)
1 - Switchcraft 3-Way Right Angle Toggle Switch with black tip
1 - Switchcraft 1/4 Output Jack
1 – 50’s style cloth push back 22awg wiring through out
Funny....I have spent more on this 2016 Gibson SG in 3 months than on my 1987 Stratocaster in 30 years....
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
PCBs are 
e, fit a nice harness and you'll never look back.
I am in the habit of shielding my guitars too now, it's good that you are doing that while you have the PCB out if you plan to do it at all. Last time I used adhesive copper slug tape from the hardware store, $9 for 4 metres. That was plenty. I did the pickup cavities and the underside of the pickguard as well. You need to solder a ground wire from the shield to the back of a pot to ground it though, as well as connecting each part of the shield and testing that with a multimeter. You should also put some electrical tape on the part of the shield close to the jack hot as I bet it will earth out like mine did when in the playing position. I have the same shaped cavity in mine and it definitely touched.
If you do solder shielding on the back of a pickguard or other plastic part be careful to not get it too hot or you will melt it. Generally a contact ground is good enough there
e, fit a nice harness and you'll never look back.I am in the habit of shielding my guitars too now, it's good that you are doing that while you have the PCB out if you plan to do it at all. Last time I used adhesive copper slug tape from the hardware store, $9 for 4 metres. That was plenty. I did the pickup cavities and the underside of the pickguard as well. You need to solder a ground wire from the shield to the back of a pot to ground it though, as well as connecting each part of the shield and testing that with a multimeter. You should also put some electrical tape on the part of the shield close to the jack hot as I bet it will earth out like mine did when in the playing position. I have the same shaped cavity in mine and it definitely touched.
If you do solder shielding on the back of a pickguard or other plastic part be careful to not get it too hot or you will melt it. Generally a contact ground is good enough there
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OP
PCBs are
I am in the habit of shielding my guitars too now, it's good that you are doing that while you have the PCB out if you plan to do it at all. Last time I used adhesive copper slug tape from the hardware store, $9 for 4 metres. That was plenty. I did the pickup cavities and the underside of the pickguard as well. You need to solder a ground wire from the shield to the back of a pot to ground it though, as well as connecting each part of the shield and testing that with a multimeter. You should also put some electrical tape on the part of the shield close to the jack hot as I bet it will earth out like mine did when in the playing position. I have the same shaped cavity in mine and it definitely touched.
If you do solder shielding on the back of a pickguard or other plastic part be careful to not get it too hot or you will melt it. Generally a contact ground is good enough there
I put 9 feet...yes...almost an entire 10 foot roll of copper shielding tape into this SG from Art Of Tone in Ventura, California. This tape has conductive adhesive, so every piece has continuity without soldering...I'm a detail freak I guess....Should withstand a dirty bomb blast...
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OP
Good point...some cables have longer tips....I been looking close since you posted this a while back...Thanks!!!
OP
They sell a roll of 2" aluminum tape at the Dollar Tree. It doesn't have continuity through the adhesive, but I use it to shield the back of the pickguard on budget Stratocaster builds. On Stratocasters that I want dead-quiet, I use fill copper shielding and a .015" aluminum shield...
