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I tried one time giving my Gibson SG a snow-white tan.:wink:

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;>)/
 
I'm so F'n pist right now with California Bullpoop…

I've been struggling a little bit with prepping the neck and applying the Tru-Oil. A couple of minor mistakes on my end that were easily rectified. Here's were the real problem started: My intention is to finish the neck with Tru-Oil, but I wanted to try one of the "High Gloss" techniques for the final coats on the headstock. I followed a tutorial that instructs to use VM&P Naphtha to use as a thinner with the Tru-Oil. Went to the local hardware store, and now I can't find VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naphtha. VM&P Naphtha replaced regular Naphtha in California a few years ago. I asked an employee: "Where's your VM&P?". Employee showed me a product that's labeled as Painter's Solvent. Right there on its label it states: "REPLACES VM&P NAPHTHA"! Employee tells me that this is all they can get now. I don't see a problem with this, therefore I purchase it.

I already have about 9 coats of the oil on the neck. This morning, I knocked it down with some 1200 grit and the wood is feeling clean and smooth... ready for the glossy oil coat. Mixed the Tru-Oil with the Painter's Solvent about 3 to 1. As I'm applying the finish mix, I'm noticing it's barely self-leveling like I was expecting it to be, according to the tutorial. Then I was noticing that the mix in the in the little container was starting to gel up on the edges of the solution, and tiny bits of that gel were being transferred to the wood as I was applying. Now I got streaky wipe marks that are very noticeable on the headstock. WTF?

I just researched the brand's website, Klean Strip, and it clearly states that this product should not be used for thinning! … Double WTF?? I should have stuck to Mineral Spirits. I'm going to have to wait till this crap hardens (Probably tomorrow?), and level it out again. Another problem is that I already have a couple waterslide decals on the headstock, and I'm hoping that I don't mess those up as I prep again for the oil mix... :ohno:

IMG_0746 - Copy.JPG


IMG_0745.JPG

I would like to take this can of Painter's Solvent and shove it up Jerry Brown's a$$… :dancepoo:
 
I remember hearing that Naptha was not available in CA. Stupid earth. They say true-Oil takes a week to harden fully. I remember you told me to keep my grubby paws off my necks for 7 days
 
Last edited:
RVA said:
I remember hearing that Naptha was not available in CA. Stupid earth. They say true-Oil takes a week to harden fully. I remember you told me to keep my grubby paws off my necks for 7 days
Click to expand...
Yeah... VM&P Naphtha, which is different than regular Naphtha, was suppose to be "California friendly". I cannot find any info on why the VM&P is not sold around here anymore. I'm assuming it's because California is turning the screws up more every few years in believing in their future fantasyland. From what I know so far about Tru-Oil, it could take a minimum of 1 week to 2 weeks to cure if you apply it thin enough. I'm pretty sure Tru-Oil is safe to lightly work on the following day for leveling. The smell test is a good indication of that, and I have not seen any problems following up on very light sanding the next day. Once again, we're dealing with very thin coats here. Oh well... live and learn... :rolleyes2:

… Still pist, though :mad:
 
syscokid said:
I'm so F'n pist right now with California Bullpoop…

I've been struggling a little bit with prepping the neck and applying the Tru-Oil. A couple of minor mistakes on my end that were easily rectified. Here's were the real problem started: My intention is to finish the neck with Tru-Oil, but I wanted to try one of the "High Gloss" techniques for the final coats on the headstock. I followed a tutorial that instructs to use VM&P Naphtha to use as a thinner with the Tru-Oil. Went to the local hardware store, and now I can't find VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naphtha. VM&P Naphtha replaced regular Naphtha in California a few years ago. I asked an employee: "Where's your VM&P?". Employee showed me a product that's labeled as Painter's Solvent. Right there on its label it states: "REPLACES VM&P NAPHTHA"! Employee tells me that this is all they can get now. I don't see a problem with this, therefore I purchase it.

I already have about 9 coats of the oil on the neck. This morning, I knocked it down with some 1200 grit and the wood is feeling clean and smooth... ready for the glossy oil coat. Mixed the Tru-Oil with the Painter's Solvent about 3 to 1. As I'm applying the finish mix, I'm noticing it's barely self-leveling like I was expecting it to be, according to the tutorial. Then I was noticing that the mix in the in the little container was starting to gel up on the edges of the solution, and tiny bits of that gel were being transferred to the wood as I was applying. Now I got streaky wipe marks that are very noticeable on the headstock. WTF?

I just researched the brand's website, Klean Strip, and it clearly states that this product should not be used for thinning! … Double WTF?? I should have stuck to Mineral Spirits. I'm going to have to wait till this crap hardens (Probably tomorrow?), and level it out again. Another problem is that I already have a couple waterslide decals on the headstock, and I'm hoping that I don't mess those up as I prep again for the oil mix... :ohno:

View attachment 17013


View attachment 17011

I would like to take this can of Painter's Solvent and shove it up Jerry Brown's a$$… :dancepoo:
Click to expand...


If your going to do it right ---- light it first! ;)
 
syscokid said:
Yeah... VM&P Naphtha, which is different than regular Naphtha, was suppose to be "California friendly". I cannot find any info on why the VM&P is not sold around here anymore. I'm assuming it's because California is turning the screws up more every few years in believing in their future fantasyland. From what I know so far about Tru-Oil, it could take a minimum of 1 week to 2 weeks to cure if you apply it thin enough. I'm pretty sure Tru-Oil is safe to lightly work on the following day for leveling. The smell test is a good indication of that, and I have not seen any problems following up on very light sanding the next day. Once again, we're dealing with very thin coats here. Oh well... live and learn... :rolleyes2:

… Still pist, though :mad:
Click to expand...
I routinely rough sanded for the next coat after 4 hours
 
syscokid said:
I'm so F'n pist right now with California Bullpoop…

I've been struggling a little bit with prepping the neck and applying the Tru-Oil. A couple of minor mistakes on my end that were easily rectified. Here's were the real problem started: My intention is to finish the neck with Tru-Oil, but I wanted to try one of the "High Gloss" techniques for the final coats on the headstock. I followed a tutorial that instructs to use VM&P Naphtha to use as a thinner with the Tru-Oil. Went to the local hardware store, and now I can't find VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naphtha. VM&P Naphtha replaced regular Naphtha in California a few years ago. I asked an employee: "Where's your VM&P?". Employee showed me a product that's labeled as Painter's Solvent. Right there on its label it states: "REPLACES VM&P NAPHTHA"! Employee tells me that this is all they can get now. I don't see a problem with this, therefore I purchase it.

I already have about 9 coats of the oil on the neck. This morning, I knocked it down with some 1200 grit and the wood is feeling clean and smooth... ready for the glossy oil coat. Mixed the Tru-Oil with the Painter's Solvent about 3 to 1. As I'm applying the finish mix, I'm noticing it's barely self-leveling like I was expecting it to be, according to the tutorial. Then I was noticing that the mix in the in the little container was starting to gel up on the edges of the solution, and tiny bits of that gel were being transferred to the wood as I was applying. Now I got streaky wipe marks that are very noticeable on the headstock. WTF?

I just researched the brand's website, Klean Strip, and it clearly states that this product should not be used for thinning! … Double WTF?? I should have stuck to Mineral Spirits. I'm going to have to wait till this crap hardens (Probably tomorrow?), and level it out again. Another problem is that I already have a couple waterslide decals on the headstock, and I'm hoping that I don't mess those up as I prep again for the oil mix... :ohno:

View attachment 17013


View attachment 17011

I would like to take this can of Painter's Solvent and shove it up Jerry Brown's a$$… :dancepoo:
Click to expand...

Remember, we are in the land of fruits and nuts. Close your eyes and say that 5 times.....
 
Today I finally started staining some color to the body.

In the Wudtone Body Finishing Kit in the color of Hot Auburn, you get 3 very small bottles and a pair of gloves:
Deep Colour Coat (1).JPG

Here we go...
Deep Colour Coat (2).JPG

Kitty approved... :yesway:
Deep Colour Coat (3).JPG

Hummingbird approved, too... :yesway:
Deep Colour Coat (4).JPG


This deep color coat application needs to dry for at least 24 hours according to the instructions. Shredded the fingertips of the right-hand glove, but I have a box of disposable black nitrile gloves. Tomorrow, before I apply the second phase Base Coat, I need to key the surface by lightly rubbing with very fine steel wool. The plan is a minimum of 3 base coats, and a max of 6 coats, with 24 to 48 hours in between coats. The base coat application could literally take 1 to 2 weeks to apply before I begin the final Top Coats.
 
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