DIY Pedal build - Rookie Style!!

Speaking of chips... Do you, Mr. Ivan, have any experience with a Tube Screamer type of pedal using a Burr Brown chip (OPA2134PA), versus the more commonly JRC 4580D?

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I have tried a TL072 but prefered the 4558D. One that I did like in the tube screamer is the LM833N. Bit more "balls" than the 4558D & a bit more headroom. I haven't tried the Burr Brown in a TS. IIRC, I have a Burr Brown OPA2134PA in a Super OCD, & another unused, for a build of some sort that I haven't got around to yet. I might try it in a TS tomorrow. Cheers
 
I have tried a TL072 but prefered the 4558D. One that I did like in the tube screamer is the LM833N. Bit more "balls" than the 4558D & a bit more headroom. I haven't tried the Burr Brown in a TS. IIRC, I have a Burr Brown OPA2134PA in a Super OCD, & another unused, for a build of some sort that I haven't got around to yet. I might try it in a TS tomorrow. Cheers
I'm asking cuz, I was about to sell one of my OD pedals. It's a TS-style with 3 clipping options, called the SRB-808 Plus, and was made by Effects Pedal Boutique who are no longer in business. I changed my mind on selling it after I started showing it some love again, and realized how nice and versatile this pedal perfoms.

When I just recently refinished the enclosure, I realized it had the real Burr Brown chip, made by Texas Instruments, in it. A moment of confusion set in, cuz I thought it was the 4558D chip in there. I looked back at some personal data that I kept on this pedal, and realized that 3 years ago, I had swapped the chips. Don't remember what prompted me to do it, but right now I'm glad I did... (y)
 
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I checked my super OCD & it does have the Burr Brown OPA2134PA chip in it. Very good sounding pedal designed by pedal guru Fred Briggs (diy only pedal). Basically an enhanced/improved OCD circuit with fet clippers & the tone section from the Timmy. WP_20180727_002.jpg
Probably an easier point to point build than the POT. I built it on perfboard, no copper foil pads. Has four controls on the front of the enclosure, gain, tone, boost (which is like a clean, independent of clipping boost) & level, also has two internal trimmer controls, bass & saturation. The Burr Brown is the chip recommended by Fred Briggs. Versatile pedal that can go from OD to quite thick & heavy distortion. Here is the layout I built it from V__14F2.gif (edit; not sure why the level control is labeled"P78".
I see there is a "two chip" layout out now.
My super crunchbox has an LM833 chip in it. Cheers
 
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That is such nice work...some day!

Thanks RVA. Its just practise, my first few weren't like this, for sure. I usually start with a correctly sized cardboard template of the inside of the enclosure, then do a cardboard cutout of the required size board so that I can work on the most efficient positioning of all the pots, LED bezel, any switches (also taking into account any proposed board modifications) etc before starting any actual building. This also allows me to work out positions for board standoffs before actually cutting the board.
This Super OCD pedal really is a "recommended build," even though point to point & the layout being a "topside view" only. Really good pedal by a well respected designer. Cheers
Edit; I run my Super OCD on an 18VDC supply. Cheers
 
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WEll done Ray glad you got it sorted!!

Yes he did do well, didn't he. Perhaps,,,, maybe,,, others could take a cue from RVA & have a crack at building an effects pedal. It really is very rewarding. Do a kit build, I can personally recommend General Guitar Gadgets & BYOC kits, both very good & include everything needed to build, or, do a stripboard/vero board build. There's several DIY FX forums & blogs that show layout diagrams for countless effects. Or, do like RVA, dive straight in at the deep end & do a point to point type build. Never know, you could end up being the next "booteek" fx dude. Cheers
 
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I couldn’t hit the like button enough on this one...

Yes he did do well, didn't he. Perhaps,,,, maybe,,, others could take a cue from RVA & have a crack at building an effects pedal. It really is very rewarding. Do a kit build, I can personally recommend General Guitar Gadgets & BYOC kits, both very good & include everything needed to build, or, do a stripboard/vero board build. There's several DIY FX forums & blogs that show layout diagrams for countless effects. Or, do like RVA, dive straight in at the deep end & do a point to point type build. Never know, you could end up being the next "booteek" fx dude. Cheers
:cheers:
 
Damn neat work Ivan, most impressive!!
Mine look like it was attacked by a kid with a can of Silly String.

Thanks jtcnj. I nearly sprayed my coffee when I read the "silly string" bit. A couple of things I've learned through doing this that really help with wiring tidiness, note that the wires coming of the footswitch stay in the position they are bent to. This can especially be seen with the white input wire to the board. I start with all fly leads attached to the board, with a bit of extra length to each wire. Then I put the board on the standoffs & bend each wire into the form needed using curved long nose pliers. Finding wire that retains the form it is bent to really helps here. Then, depending on insulation color I use either a black or silver fine point sharpie type marker to mark the insulation on each wire exactly where it needs to be stripped. Remove the board from the standoffs & cut each wire about 1/8" longer than where they're marked. Strip exactly where marked using proper wire strippers, not side cutters. Sit the board back on the standoffs, solder all leads where they need to go & then lock the board down on the standoffs. Done. Hope this helps with your next build. Cheers
 
Schooled!
Thanks Ivan.
It starts out neat and turns into a run away train.

I use solid wire in a lot of places to bend and stay in place.
I need to wire the board and leave flying leads like you say.

I need to make the transistor hfe test board and go back and match up some Qs for my FF builds.
 
Schooled!


I need to make the transistor hfe test board and go back and match up some Qs for my FF builds.

Thanks for the reminder jtcnj, I have two OC75's that I tested & breadboarded in a Tonebender mk1.5 & Fuzz Face circuit probably over a year ago. I really need to decide on which type to do & get to building it soon. Also have another 3 OC75's tested in a 3 knob Tonebender circuit waiting to be built. Think I'll start with a FF as I already have a Tonebender mk1 & mk2 built. Cheers
 
I am thinking about a Klon clone next. Any favorite build plans, Ivan? Thanks

I've not done one yet, but IIRC I have seen a kit available somewhere. I'll see if I can find & let you know. Cheers

Edit; Yes, both General Guitar Gadgets & BYOC (build your own clone) offer a Klon Centaur type kit. The BYOC kit is their "Sliver Pony" kit. I haven't read up on them to know which would be preferable. One BYOC kit I've been waiting literally ages for the Ozzie distributor to get back in stock is the 5 knob compressor. I have the BYOC Phase Royalle & its the best phase shifter I've seen. Cheers
 
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I am thinking about a Klon clone next. Any favorite build plans, Ivan? Thanks

Here's the point to point layout
C__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_Klon Centaur.png
Cheers

Edit; you also need the footswitch wiring diagram that is used with this layoutC__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_Klon Footswitch.png
The Klon Centaur is a "buffered bypass" type effect, much like most Boss or Ibanez type pedals etc. Sorry I forgot to add the footswitch diagram earlier. It is possible to wire the footswitch as "true bypass", though you need to read the article accompanying the layout at Perf and PCB Layouts: Klon Centaur Perf and PCB Effects Layouts: Klon Centaur (hope the link works this time). Cheers
 
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I've not done one yet, but IIRC I have seen a kit available somewhere. I'll see if I can find & let you know. Cheers

Edit; Yes, both General Guitar Gadgets & BYOC (build your own clone) offer a Klon Centaur type kit. The BYOC kit is their "Sliver Pony" kit. I haven't read up on them to know which would be preferable.
BYOC discontinued the Silver Pony kit almost 2 years ago. Don't know why. BUT... there is a vendor thru Reverb.com that is offering this BYOC kit, unbuilt and pre-built, currently. I'm very confused with the availability of this kit, but you (or anybody else) might want to jump on this... 4 left in stock. Plus, the following link to the ad offers a 15% discount at checkout:
B.Y.O.C. Silver Pony Overdrive Kit (Build Your Own Clone)

And the video that prompted me to get the BYOC Silver Pony kit, right before it was discontinued:

One BYOC kit I've been waiting literally ages for the Ozzie distributor to get back in stock is the 5 knob compressor.
Built this one, too. Based on the ROSS 5-knobber. Excellent. I'll post pics of mine later.

I have the BYOC Phase Royalle & its the best phase shifter I've seen.
You're the one that GASsed me up on building this kit, too... :H5:. I'll agree too, that this a great sounding phase shifter.
 
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Thanks! Point to point for me. No need to go backwards. At the end of the day, I want the pedal and the experience. I am almost done with my second POT!

Regarding the POT, I am getting a "popping" from the foot switch. I read that this was a battery to A/C thing, but I do not have a battery. Any ideas?

Looking at the layout, there is a 1meg ohm "pull-down" resistor on both the input (lowest "horizontal" resistor on left side of layout) & the output (further-most right vertical resistor on layout) of the circuit. The purpose of these (kinda wrongly named) pull-down resistors is to prevent a DC charge from building up on the input and output capacitors, causing them to make a pop when the effect is switched in. Maybe check those two 1meg ohm resistors for no cold solder joins etc, BUT, I have once madly chase a similar popping sound to no avail. Finally I changed out the footswitch, kinda just hoping, & viola,,, the popping when switching was gone. So it is possible that the footswitch is noisey.
Regarding a Klon build, be warey of buying 1N34A "germanium" diodes off ebay. The 1N34A, most often called a "detector diode" due to their being the best ever type to be used as such in crystal radio, has long been out of production & fakes are rife on the bay. I'll look through my notes this evening & send you a source for genuine, NOS, US made 1N34A diodes. Hope this helps. Cheers
 
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