New Bridge, Drastic Change

chilipeppermaniac said:
A friend who has now passed away used to gig and every so often I would get him to try one of my new guitars such as a PRS Santana 3 or my Telecaster. He would usually like them ok but I could tell he struggled to make it through a song before he was ready to pass it back.

On the time he played my Tele, he told me he could not get used to the strings. I was using 10's and he sad he used 10.5's
Click to expand...

Man, I have never gotten used to a Tele. They feel like a butcher block with a baseball bat sticking out of it that has a couple of transatlantic cables attached to the front. I've wasted far too much money over the years periodically reminding myself of this.
 
I'm with @Robert Herndon in that I like the Faber stuff. I only have the locking aluminium ABR-1 type bridge (ABRL & N-sert posts) on my LP traditional, but have the locking steel tailpiece studs/shims on all my Gibson's, whether using the lightweight aluminium stopbar or not.
I did consider Tone Pros stuff, but IMO, a couple of grub screws at 90 degrees to the posts is not the best method of properly locking the bridge or stopbar down.
As @gball mentioned, it may occasionally be necessary to tweak the bridge height due to prevailing weather conditions. I keep the Faber tool along with the truss adjustment tool (in a small zip lock bag) in the guitar case. It only takes a few seconds to unlock the bridge & lock it down again after tweaking the height.
Though I've not used them, I believe that the Callaham locking steel tailpiece studs utilise the same sort of height adjustment shims as the Faber studs do. Cheers
 
Last edited:
So far, I have all stock hardware on my Gib type guitars.
Epi LP with EPI Chinese Bridge and TP
ES 135
3 SG's with Nashvilles I think And my one 1976 Std having a Harmonica bridge.
Es 335 Copy Washburn HB 30 ( Smitty says it could use new saddles of new bridge) This will need Metric or conversion to USA sized Bridge
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
So far, I have all stock hardware on my Gib type guitars.
Epi LP with EPI Chinese Bridge and TP
ES 135
3 SG's with Nashvilles I think And my one 1976 Std having a Harmonica bridge.
Es 335 Copy Washburn HB 30 ( Smitty says it could use new saddles of new bridge) This will need Metric or conversion to USA sized Bridge
Click to expand...


Looking for good sources of replacement saddles for OEM Gib bridges, and of course a new Gold Bridge/Tailpiece for my Washburn ( Metric) unless I ream holes for anchors etc. Then any USA spec Bridge and TP will do.
 
gball said:
It's interesting how things have evolved. Replacement parts were relatively rare when we were all just starting out but now the industry making parts for guitars seems to be one of the biggest segments.
Click to expand...

Yes, alot of it had to do with some guy that built his own- called it Franky.
Sure don't remember much aftermarket mods back before EVH.

IMO, thanks Ed, another one of his huge contributions to music. Damn, still hurts like it was yesterday, I miss that guy.

 
Cadorman said:
So I've had this Tone Pros System II bridge sitting around for a couple of years and decided to pull it out and install it on the Blueberry this morning.
View attachment 57243
I didn't think much about it and then I plugged in and holy heck it sounded like a different guitar! I'm not sure how much of the change has to do with locking the bridge down to the studs versus going from aluminum to Zamac. This is the ABR style bridge for Nashville guitars. Super easy to remove the saddles since the screws are held in with an e-clip and I like the nylon washers under the screw heads.

Sound wise I would say the Harmonics are more defined, there is more sustain and the bass and mids are more aggressive. I actually had to pull down the 63hz and 128hz sliders on my equalizer. I may need more of these. Anyone else using them? I sold a set of the locking tail piece studs to @SG John and may have to take another look at those.
Click to expand...
I'm using string saver saddles, and I find that non-metallic saddles have better control over sustain with less ringing microphonics. I would use the gibson nylon saddles if the screws are the right thread.
1615649009252.png
 
steveb63 said:
I don't know how it plays, but it sure is a great match aesthetically.

Body color with the roasted neck is spot on!
Click to expand...

Thanks!!!!

I have a solid brass tremolo coming, then I will use a gold input jack pan and gold pickguard screws...

Screenshot_20210309-133204_eBay.jpg
 
Last edited:
Amp Mad Scientist said:
I'm using string saver saddles, and I find that non-metallic saddles have better control over sustain with less ringing microphonics. I would use the gibson nylon saddles if the screws are the right thread.
View attachment 61166
Click to expand...
I currently have nylon saddles on the 3 plain strings of my amber Les Paul. I tried them on my V and SG, but found the SG lost a little of its magic with them. The V I could go either way. I like the string saver saddles and have been considering trying them on the other 2 Les Pauls.
 
gball said:
The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. Teles are just not for me: I've accepted the fact that the only things that work for me are Les Pauls.
Click to expand...
I was the same way G man ....well Lesters.......and SG's......and 1 strat.....and PEAVEY's ..........oh and a Firebird ......but then................I played this
esquire.jpg

a Tele .........I could love
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top