Modern Gibbo "wiring" boards

eSGEe

eSGEe

Ferengi Ambassador of Trade
Country flag
SO the lovely new 2017 SG has a board-- and I notice while noodling -- in the 3 way switch middle position -- both pups on--- if I roll the neck vol OFF -- the guitar still plays --- if I roll the bridge off it goes silent-- if I blend them to degrees the volume and tone change accordingly---wait -- I fiddle with the 3 way and not its working right---
poo I may have a wonky 3 way switchereeno
 
eSGEe said:
SO the lovely new 2017 SG has a board-- and I notice while noodling -- in the 3 way switch middle position -- both pups on--- if I roll the neck vol OFF -- the guitar still plays --- if I roll the bridge off it goes silent-- if I blend them to degrees the volume and tone change accordingly---wait -- I fiddle with the 3 way and not its working right---
poo I may have a wonky 3 way switchereeno
Click to expand...

Have you posted pictures of this said SG yet??? If not WHERE ARE THEY? If so...where are they?
 
eSGEe said:
SO the lovely new 2017 SG has a board-- and I notice while noodling -- in the 3 way switch middle position -- both pups on--- if I roll the neck vol OFF -- the guitar still plays --- if I roll the bridge off it goes silent-- if I blend them to degrees the volume and tone change accordingly---wait -- I fiddle with the 3 way and not its working right---
poo I may have a wonky 3 way switchereeno
Click to expand...

Possibly, one of the leaves in the switch is not making contact with the neck pickup in the middle position. Are you sure the neck pickup is actually on when you have the middle position selected?

I had the same issue when I built my LP Studio. I just carefully bent the contact leaves in the switch so the missing pickup was also on in the middle position. It was a little irritating because I used a brand new Switchcraft switch in my build, and it had an issue fresh out of the package.

Anyway, if this is your issue, contact cleaner won’t help. In such a case, it also isn’t the fault of the PCB.

To determine if this is your problem, carefully watch the contact leaves as you slowly move the switch through its positions. Look for a very slight gap in one set of contacts in the middle position.
 
eSGEe said:
that sounds like it might be the issue--- as the "issue" goes away if I "jiggle" the switch about a little--
Click to expand...

If this is the problem and you try to fix it, just be careful you don’t bend the contact leaf too far, or the pickup will never turn off.

There is also the option of just replacing the switch.

But, if you do have any plans of getting a new harness, don’t bother replacing the switch now because the new harness will have a new switch, as well.
 
smitty_p said:
If this is the problem and you try to fix it, just be careful you don’t bend the contact leaf too far, or the pickup will never turn off.

There is also the option of just replacing the switch.

But, if you do have any plans of getting a new harness, don’t bother replacing the switch now because the new harness will have a new switch, as well.
Click to expand...

I've seen the PCB style switches from Stratosphere really cheap too...
 
I have new Gibbo switches, straight and angled, iffin you want to do a handoff next get together.
That Beefs in FishHawk is a nice place for our shenanigans, no cops.:sneaky:
Or I can send one your way.
 
eSGEe said:
the switch might just need some cleaner........though---- I might (someday) take out the board and get a nice wiring harness from those online guys like this
SG Wiring Harness Kit Sprague Orange Drop .022uF CTS 525k Pots Vintage Wiring | eBay

but -- I think I will try some deoxit first ......
Click to expand...
That's a nice looking prewired kit for a decent price.

Switch: If the contact blades don't look deformed, try sliding a piece of medium or fine emery cloth sanding paper in between the contact points. Follow with contact cleaner, and apply some dielectric grease on the contact points. This should retard future corrosion issues at those contact points.

And don't forget to blow the crud out!
 
Ok....if you order a harness, be sure to tell them your guitar has a PCB from the factory...The EARLY SG's had a larger control cavity. When Tone Man built the custom harness for my 2016 SG T-Series, we had to run the ground loops on the INSIDE of the pots because there was no room outside the pots for the ground loops to run...

SG PCB.JPG

SG Early Cavity.jpg
 
COOL guys thanks -- need to get my lazy ass to open the control cavity and try the SMITTY FIX ---first-- then will see whats what
 
Robert Herndon said:
Ok....if you order a harness, be sure to tell them your guitar has a PCB from the factory...The EARLY SG's had a larger control cavity. When Tone Man built the custom harness for my 2016 SG T-Series, we had to run the ground loops on the INSIDE of the pots because there was no room outside the pots for the ground loops to run...
Click to expand...

Well they shouldn't be doing that at all because SGs have had that shape cavity since around 2004 or so, well before the introduction of the PCB. My 2006 and 2007 guitars had cavities like your guitar but with wired harnesses

The main issue I had with replacing the PCB is the strange bridge ground wire, which was difficult to solder to the back of a pot
 
eSGEe said:
Well....................Smitty wins the Kewpie Doll....tweaked the "switch contacts" and all is well. :)
no muss -- no fuss no SOLDERING! lol
Click to expand...

And the crowd goes wild!

It’s kind of bothersome, though. Your switch is a Switchcraft, right?

If it is, this makes the second Switchcraft switch I know of that’s had this issue.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top