Another Beater Squier SE strat (SE #2)

jtcnj

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Ok, good skill builder project with a decent neck and a full Fender size / thickness body.
Come along for the ride if you like.

This will likely become an HSS with a Super Distortion bridge pickup I have on hand.

The neck profile is a bit thinner but still ok to me, little disappointed as the first one is deeper / rounder like I prefer.
I struggle a bit sometimes with the 42mm nut width / prefer 1-11/16" / 43 mm, but only a little.
It still fills my hand better than the Classic Vibe necks. I think the thick rosewood fretboard contributes to that, making it more D than C shaped (maybe?)

On closer inspection, this one is a bit of a basket case.
The fret ends are the worst / sharpest I have seen.
Truss rod works / neck responds.
The level isn't horrible, but not great, and the frets are very oxidized like the first one.
The nut is cut reasonably well.
This one isn't as grimy and dirty as the first, but has more rust / oxidation on the screws / hardware, etc.

The action is sky high, even with the saddles almost decked.
I shimmed the pickup end of the cavity, ok now.

The electronics work and are smooth now after a shot of Faderlube.
The ceramic pickups are not bad after lowering them a bit, but I have other plans.
The jack was a bit loose feeling when inserting the cable; I bent the tab a little - ok.

The bridge binds badly tuning / stability is horrible.
This is a mostly unplayable guitar, even before the damage / abuse.
Not surprised there is zero fret wear, although there are a few dents.

5 of 6 tuner screw holes are stripped and one tuner is broken / threaded part where the bushing screws in is stripped.
I stuffed the holes with wood shavings and have a spare tuner that matches pretty well.
A couple are a little crooked but I left it.

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Several frets / ends were lifted and did not stay down with the hammer.
Not a BFH (where is Adrian?) , just a small brass faced hammer.

I glued them down and set about the fret level.
Took the most strokes by far of any I have done so far, but it turned out very well in the end.
I have misplaced my bone nut blanks and have not tried to cut the cow bone into blanks yet, so I am re-using the stock nut for now.

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Hey, Man...

Honestly, if its a fixer-upper, just full the slots in the nut with super glue and baking soda and re-cut
My goal with these 2 Squiers is to come out with 2 strats that are keepers for me based on feel, playability, and tone. One SSS, the other HSS.

None of the slots are too low or misplaced. I did a bit of file work for height and shape.
It works well, and this neck may be replaced anyway.

With repetitions, my skill proficiency and confidence is up, and time for fret level and nut work is coming way down and this serves that purpose.
 
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Here is where things get a bit squirrely.
Assessing the binding bridge issue, the block binds against the front of the cavity, and the bridge mounting screws are driven in crooked.
Either the child labor was having a really bad day or the holes weren't centered and the screws laid over when driven.

I'm not sure if the bridge was mounted too far forward - but I had to cut the low e saddle spring to get proper intonation.

My first go at plugging and re-drilling holes. A few do overs were in order to get the placement right. I got all but the D string right where the bridge pivots freely / no binding. I filed the front of the cavity a little as well and strung it up.

Tuning stability still awful IF you touch the trem bar, pretty good otherwise. I hear a little spring noise and realize the block is very short and the springs scrape on the body a little.



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Comparing the bridges from both SE strats, I see the other one appears to be of better quality, and the block is longer and mounted more toward the back.
So, I tried it. The D spot screw went in with no binding either - the holes may be a little bigger.

Much better, not perfect but very usable.
I splurged for a Fender Mexico bridge for SE #1, so I had the OEM one as a spare.

It plays well, but I might "spring" for a Fender Mexico trem and bar on this one too.
I have some finagling to do with a maple fretboard neck and Bootstrap pickups on SE #1. The neck and pickups from that one may land here, until I cut a HB size hole at the bridge of one of the pick guards.

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Comparing the bridges from both SE strats, I see the other one appears to be of better quality, and the block is longer and mounted more toward the back.
So, I tried it. The D spot screw went in with no binding either - the holes may be a little bigger.

Much better, not perfect but very usable.
I splurged for a Fender Mexico bridge for SE #1, so I had the OEM one as a spare.

It plays well, but I might "spring" for a Fender Mexico trem and bar on this one too.
I have some finagling to do with a maple fretboard neck and Bootstrap pickups on SE #1. The neck and pickups from that one may land here, until I cut a HB size hole at the bridge of one of the pick guards.

View attachment 93050View attachment 93051View attachment 93052View attachment 93053

I saw a Zelinsky Strat where the sustain block rubbed the body rout.

Just remove some wood with a burr and you're good.
 
So, I plugged and re-drilled the thicker profile neck from SE #1 and mounted it, came out great / straight. I re-used the strings for now and used the 2 e strings to align the neck.

I scored another set of used Fender 2-pin staggered tuners. Went smoothly, but G is a little crooked.
I may go back and add a little slop to the pin holes to get it straight, or not.
Plugged the old tuner screw holes and the hole for the unused G/D string tree.

Really shaping up into a good player.

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So, I plugged and re-drilled the thicker profile neck from SE #1 and mounted it, came out great / straight. I re-used the strings for now and used the 2 e strings to align the neck.

I scored another set of used Fender 2-pin staggered tuners. Went smoothly, but G is a little crooked.
I may go back and add a little slop to the pin holes to get it straight, or not.
Plugged the old tuner screw holes and the hole for the unused G/D string tree.

Really shaping up into a good player.

View attachment 93722View attachment 93723View attachment 93724

G and e tuners are swapped
 
Fewer winds on 'E' and 'A'. Too much downangle on liw E.

Use two fingers behind nut to set slack on E and A.

Use three fingers behind nut on other strings.
 
Fewer winds on 'E' and 'A'. Too much downangle on liw E.

Use two fingers behind nut to set slack on E and A.

Use three fingers behind nut on other strings.
I've been considering # of wraps as part of understanding tuning stability lately, as has been mentioned with nuts, strat trems, etc.
I have always used one tuner space longer for wound and 2 tuner spaces for the plain.
I will try the fewer wraps on E and A on string change, thanks again Rob.
 
Finally got this one set up as HSS. I initially used all 250k pots. Tone1 .047µf neck and middle, Tone2 .022µf bridge.
Dimarzio Super Distortion bridge, was too dark, ended at Tone2 500k .01µf.

Real happy with it. I have a set of Bootstrap Sun City Select strat pickups ordered for the neck and middle.

The electronics pic was probably the first rendition.
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