DSL40C Tips:

Inspector #20

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Found this on The Gear Page...

Here's the story: I've been through a bunch of amps in the last 12 months or so looking for the right thing for me. I wanted a reliable and gig-worthy amp that could also do rehearsal and jamming, and could be playable at a volume that wouldn't take my house down. I play mostly 70s-00s rock, mostly hard rock. RATM, RHCP, Pearl Jam, Nirvana, Soundgarden, AIC, Foo Fighters, Metallica, Zepplin, QOTSA etc. Music with lots of quiet-loud dynamics (so I need a nice clean sound) and lots of loud, crashing guitars (so I need a great drive sound).

I'm not a boutique guy -- I just do not have the cash or the talent for that, and even if I did, I'm not sure $3,000+ amps appeal to me anyways. So if you insist on that kind of thing, this post might not be helpful for you.

Anyways, long story short, I now own the DSL40c and I think it is an amazing amp, well worth every penny. In the process, I've found out a few things about it that I wanted to share for others on a similar journey.

For reference, I've owned the following amps:

Fender Hot Rod Deluxe -- Didn't really like that volume jump and the overdrive wasn't for me, but the cleans are good.

Peavey Delta Blues 210 (Clean channel very sterile, overdrive channel good but needed a TS to tighten. Amp was very dark overall for me -- had treble maxed out and still too dark.)

Peavey Bandit - Pretty damn good for a solid state amp, but sounded a lot like the Delta blues, with the same issues. (For me.)

Fender Bassbreaker 15 (Overdrive sounds are awesome, clean is awesome but not much headroom. Main problem was that it's not 2-channels and turning down guitar volume wasn't getting me clean enough. If you don't need that, it really is a blast to play.)

Egnater Tweaker 40 (This amp sounds great once you get it EQ'ed, but I bought a used one that failed and then a brand new one which started hissing and cracking within an hour of play, so back those went. Not sure on reliability here.)

I also played through many others in the course of looking, many of which have been mentioned on here -- the Blackstar 40, Orange TH15 and Terrors, Vox AC15/30, Vox Night Train, Peavey Classic, etc. I've also played some classic and expensive amps, but they belonged to other people.

Anyways, I tried the Marshall DSL40C, an amp I had tried unsuccessfully many times before. Like many, I thought the 2 channels didn't match up well, and the gain was too fizzy and bright on the red channel. I thought the reverb was weak, etc.

I got lucky today and there was a sound room I could set up in to try the DSL40c, and the employees were happy to have me turn it up louder. In about an hour and a half, I discovered the following things which led me to buy the amp:

1. It's not a bedroom or recording amp. Like, at all. The amp sounds much, much better once you get it up to jamming, rehearsing, or gigging volume. And after that, it just gets better. A big part of the reason the "red" channel seems fizzy is because people are (understandably) playing it at lower volumes. This is an amp to play in a band or jam with other musicians. It needs to get up to a certain volume to sound the way people want it to sound.

2. EQ is sensitive and works very well, if you take the time. By rolling back the treble to 3, putting the bass at 6, pushing the mids to 7-8, and rolling back the resonance knob to 3 (EDIT: I meant Presence: Resonance should be up around 7-8) I'm getting incredible, huge rock rhythm sounds on the red channel, and a really nice fat clean with channel 1 set to "crunch" and the gain down low at 3. If you were going to use the green channel for a distorted tone, you would need more treble and less bass. The green and red channels can actually do the same thing, but they are just EQ'ed way differently. I think clipping the bright cap is the wrong approach -- it probably ruins the clean channel. Just get the EQ right.

3. It's possible to get the red channel to sound like the green channel with its gain cranked. With the EQ settings above and the gain on the "Lead 2" channel at about 2 or less, so basically in the "9:00" position, I got a huge, ballsy, roaring Marshall sound once I got the actual volume above 9:00 as well. It's pretty loud at that point, basically at jamming volume. I A/Bed it with that great crunchy green-channel sound people like and the sound was very, very close. This means you can "create" the amp people seem to want -- clean on channel 1 and great, tight rock sound on channel 2. Then use a boost for soloing, or do volume knob stuff...

4. The red channel works extremely well for rolling off your volume knob. With my volume knob on 5, on a guitar with humbuckers, I get a very nice, chimey clean tone while still on the red Lead 2 Channel. Because you're on the high-gain channel, it's got some white noise behind it, so I would use the actual clean channel in a recording situation, but for a live situation it is a great, great sound to have for dynamic music. Up at 7.5 on my volume knob, I have a great low-gain rhythm sound -- AC/DC type thing. At 10 the thing is roaring -- not fizzy at all, just roaring. None of the amps above had this quality -- they all sounded very flat with the volume knob rolled off. Part of the "brightness" everyone complains about works in the amp's favor here -- there's a lot of clarity and chime left when you roll off your guitar's volume knob.

I also think the red channel with the gain set low and the EQ done right would also make a great overdriven blues sound.

5. The red channel has way too much gain on tap. This is the third reason (besides EQ and playing volume) that people think it sounds fizzy -- they have too much gain dialed in, and it might be Marshall's fault for putting it there. The higher gain settings just don't really work. In Lead 1, keep gain under 4 and in Lead 2, keep it under 2. With the right EQ and playing volume, it sound amazing. I hit an EP booster with the internal dip switch set to add bass and the knob around 10:00 if I want a heavier sound. This pushes the right frequencies while pushing the gain. An EQ pedal could do the same thing.

6. The "weak reverb" serves a purpose, and very well. Here's another misconception: The reverb seems "weak" because it's there to create depth, not to play surf music. I have the reverb knobs at about noon and it makes the amp sound enormous and deep. If I want to play ambient shoe-gaze or surf music, I can run a $100 reverb pedal through the loop. I think the reverb is perfect for the purpose its intended to serve. It's not supposed to sound like Fender reverb.

7. The oversized cabinet is amazing. It's not solid wood, but if it was, I think the amp would weigh about 85 lbs, and I think it sounds great without it. The big cabinet housing the speaker, with the semi-closed back, gives it a huge, bassy sound that still has spread. It's truly the opposite of "boxy" amp.

So that's it -- this is the amp I've been looking for, and it was right in front of my face. It's certainly not the easiest amp to dial in immediately, and I think Marshall screwed a few things up in the design, but if you sit and play with it, I think the DSL40 is as good a rock amp as you can get. The guy I jam with most frequently uses a 1987 JCM 800 combo and as good as it sounds, I honest to god would rather have the DSL. I haven't plugged it into a 4x12 yet, but I imagine it can take some heads off.
 
Robert, Great review by someone who obviously knows something about dialing in an amp and really using their ears to listen. The key words here are all about getting the chance to open up and turn up this DSL40C. I learned that with my Dark Terror. They are made to be played at volume in a jam or gig environment. I think that the reason they sound better is that at volume, the controls reveal more of what the amp has to offer. I think of it this way: if you try and fit a lot of furniture into a smallish' room, there are limited options to arrange and show off the room and furniture to its best. With a larger room, all of a sudden you see many more options. With a 40-watt amp, the louder it can be run, the more options you find when using the amp controls. The e.q. knobs show a wider range of coloring and tone shapeing and speaker(s) start to give up the actual qualities they were designed for.

My Dark Terror sounds adequate at bedroom volume; actually sounds quite good, but turned up to get to the optimum tone from its 15-watt tube circuit, requires that I take it to a jam or gig in larger surroundings.

I think that when I read reviews from disappointed new DSL40 owners, I realize they maybe purchased too much amp for their playing environment.



Stratstrangler
 
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WoW! you must have typers cramp LOL. There's a lot of words there, but a great review Rob, super thorough. Sounds like a good amp as you say for being used at higher volumes.
 
Robert, Great review by someone who obviously knows something about dialing in an amp and really using their ears to listen. The key words here are all about getting the chance to open up and turn up this DSL40C. I learned that with my Dark Terror. They are made to be played at volume in a jam or gig environment. I think that the reason they sound better is that at volume, the controls reveal more of what the amp has to offer. I think of it this way: if you try and fit a lot of furniture into a smallish' room, there are limited options to arrange and show off the room and furniture to its best. With a larger room, all of a sudden you see many more options. With a 40-watt amp, the louder it can be run, the more options you find when using the amp controls. The e.q. knobs show a wider range of coloring and tone shapeing and speaker(s) start to give up the actual qualities they were designed for.

My Dark Terror sounds adequate at bedroom volume; actually sounds quite good, but turned up to get to the optimum tone from its 15-watt tube circuit, requires that I take it to a jam or gig in larger
surroundings.

I think that when I read reviews from disappointed new DSL40 owners, I realize they maybe purchased too much amp for their playing environment.



Stratstrangler



Good points Stratstrangler.
 
Great review Robert.
I love my DSL40c. I discovered early on that there are major differences in Jam room level, and bedroom level with this amp. When I would practice at the band room, I loved it, when I got home something wasn't the same. Sheer volume. That is not to say I dislike it at low levels, but it's not the same. It has the option to switch from 40w to 20w, which helps at home.

I've benefited from your single comments on adjustments along the way. This review is a nice reference. Another factor that can't be ignored, is speaker and tube selection. I believe you've modified both. The std speaker is the 70/80, which is lacking in the tonal enjoyment. It's what I currently have. Sweetwater has been offering the creamback upgrade for a while, I've played it and it's a huge improvement. It's my next upgrade. I've rolled tubes a few times, but the speaker needs immediate attention.

I have also used extension cabs with my DSL, and it's a great option and benefit of this amp. I have a single 12, and a 4x12. There really is no need to use either, unless your competing against another guitars volume. That is why I've used the single at our band room....but it's a bit much cranked up.

Rock on !

20170903_113539-2656x1494.jpg
 
Good observations. Yes, I have swapped tubes to the more "gainy" Genelex Gold Lion T12AX7 and KT88's. I am also running a custom made 16 ohm WGS 50 Watt Reaper with a 55Hz cone.

I would describe it as a darker less "edgy" speaker that sounds really big and full. WGS is great to work with. Their Veteran 30 is a popular swap in the DSL40C and is said to be comparable to a Creamback.

I've been doing everything with an eye towards improving my recorded tone, so I been reading everything I can find on the subject.

Your volume observations are also accurate in the these amps sound best at stage volumes.

For that reason I started using a Weber Attenuator.

IMG_20180208_19712.jpg

This has been really neat as you can seriously crank the amp's tube section and control volume to the speaker.

My biggest challenge, right now anyway, is getting my overall EQ right!!!
 
What's the wattage on that attenuator?.... 100w ??

I have a chance to buy a new Vintage 30 for $90, which is a deal. I'm just not sure if I want that speaker over a creamback....although that will run about $170. I have about a day to decide on the v30.
 
Robert, do thise types of attenuation devices cause any harm to tubes or the amps' circuits that you know of? I've read discussions recently about the subject and a few folks are not completely sold on attenuation equipment not doing some harm if used continuously.



Stratstrangler
 
Robert, by any chance to you work in music retail? It sounds like (from reading your OP) you have a pretty comprehensive understanding of how to tweak any amp to get your tone.

Don't laugh, but actually my Micro Cube GT led me in the right direction when it came to dialing in my Orange Dark Terror. I practiced fiddling with the Cube and pushed it to a reasonable limit without doing it damage. I realized that the “Black Face” model Roland designed when used with my Strats, reacts like a tube amp pushed to its own limits. The sound took on a whole other dimension with the harmonics becoming sort of “homogenized” where you start to actually hear more than one tone happening including speaker distortion/harmonics; almost the same way a tube amp would produce......hats off to Roland for making it so convincing. Now I use the same formula to tweak the Dark Terror; only at a 7.5 watt setting...which is still loud for home use, but so much more satisfying than trying to run the DT with a governor on its controls.



Stratstrangler
 
Robert, by any chance to you work in music retail? It sounds like (from reading your OP) you have a pretty comprehensive understanding of how to tweak any amp to get your tone.

Don't laugh, but actually my Micro Cube GT led me in the right direction when it came to dialing in my Orange Dark Terror. I practiced fiddling with the Cube and pushed it to a reasonable limit without doing it damage. I realized that the “Black Face” model Roland designed when used with my Strats, reacts like a tube amp pushed to its own limits. The sound took on a whole other dimension with the harmonics becoming sort of “homogenized” where you start to actually hear more than one tone happening including speaker distortion/harmonics; almost the same way a tube amp would produce......hats off to Roland for making it so convincing. Now I use the same formula to tweak the Dark Terror; only at a 7.5 watt setting...which is still loud for home use, but so much more satisfying than trying to run the DT with a governor on its controls.



Stratstrangler


LOL!!!!

If you read my first line in the OP, please note "found this on the gear page."

It's not my review, but I felt like it was very comprehensive, so I posted it here. I am probably not anywhere near as amp savvy as this fellow. I have discovered quite a bit through research and experimentation with the DSL40C.

Here are my DS40C tips:

Every single DSL40C you find in a music store has the speaker cable INCORRECTLY plugged into the 8 ohm jack instead of the 16 ohm. This is because the final test is done on the 8 ohm jack. I switch every one I find to the correct setting.

The quietest and smoothest pre amp tubes are the Tube Amp Doctor 7025-WA's - they give very smooth, mild gain.

The Genelex Gold Lion T12AX7 have the most gain of any tube on the market (in the DSL40C anyways)

The stock 70/80 speaker isn't bad after it's broken in, although I prefer the WGS 50 Reaper

The WGS Reaper is an excellent speaker and reasonably priced. I use a custom made 50 watt Reaper with a 55Hz cone option. This 'bass cone' model takes a long time to fully break in but can handle low frequencies without breakup at full volume.

The Weber Mass Lite 100 Watt Attentuator will completely silence a DSL40C on the 40 watt setting

When using an attenuator, I recommend using a 36" cable, so if the attenuator is knocked off the amp, it won't rip the connections off the speaker. I use the stock plastic cable clamp attached to the inside of the cabinet.

I recommend a 90 degree pancake plug for the speaker cable, so that when you lay the amp down, it doesn't damage the jack

I use a ferrite loop clamp on the power cables of all my amps for EFI control

I also use the all metal Furman SS68-Pro 6 Power Conditioner/Surge Protector/EFI/RMI Power Block

SETTINGS:

I've been experimenting, and quite actually, I saw a video of Joe B testing a DSL40C by laying it with every knob at 10. So, I tried this and it was unimaginably good!!! I tweaked it a little from this maxed-out setting, but my sound is ever-evolving.

GAIN: When you roll the gain off on the red channel, you really start to lose resonance, so you have to really boost the low end with the EQ

EQ: I prefer 'Resonance' at full, 'Presence' about 1/2, Treble and Bass full, Mids about 1/2

SWITCHES: I tend to stay on 'Lead 1' with the 'Tone Shift' out, but I am ready to start experimenting!!!!!
 
Robert, do thise types of attenuation devices cause any harm to tubes or the amps' circuits that you know of? I've read discussions recently about the subject and a few folks are not completely sold on attenuation equipment not doing some harm if used continuously.



Stratstrangler


I have read and heard that they shorten tube life. I am yet to experience any detriments whatsoever.
 
More DSL40C fun!!!!

Here's a fun video of my DSL40C when it was totally stock. No pedals of any kind were used in the making of this video. Only the Marshall DSL40C and a 6 foot cable.


The guitar used was my 30 year old 1987 Squire with the 1992 DiMarzio Virtual Vintage Solo bridge pickup, wired through a 1987 Alpha 250k tone pot with a 220k ohm treble bleed.

Now for a shot of the amp settings used in the video:

DSL40C 2.jpg



Lead Switch.jpg
 
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Ok, here's a video with the modified DSL40C. This is with the Genelex Gold Lions T12AX7/KT 88 Tubes and the WGS 50 Watt Reaper with 55Hz cone. . You will see me turning the attenuator on and off in this video. Switch "up" is attenuator "on" and switch "down" is attenuator "off."


Guitar is Von Herndon Custom Double Neck with Thro-Bak SLE-101 Pickups - but note that my bridge pickup is shifted over 1" toward the nut, changing it's tonal signature significantly. This was done to capture a little bit of the Les Paul Black beauty's middle pickup tone:

Witchy.jpg


Now compare my bridge pickup placement to a stock Gibson EDS-1275:


Tailpieces.png
 
And here is the same settings, but running my Boss CS-3 compressor ONLY for a slight treble boost with no signal increase:


Same Von Herndon Double Neck with Thro-Bak SLE-101's.

I'd like your thoughts good or bad...
 
The std speaker is the 70/80, which is lacking in the tonal enjoyment. It's what I currently have. Sweetwater has been offering the creamback upgrade for a while, I've played it and it's a huge improvement. It's my next upgrade. I've rolled tubes a few times, but the speaker needs immediate attention.

Here's a cool comparison video for you:

 
I like the DSL40C with the Weber off. It seems to a more natural amp sound. Do I detect a bit more of the highs with the Weber on?


Stratstrangler

Yes, the Weber has a treble boost, like the old Rangemaster. I boost the treble because the pickup placement and tone of the doubleneck seem a bit too dark to my ears....and the CS-3 is another treble boost....
 
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