What SAY you? All you SOUND/AMP/TECHIE Tube vs SS guru's

chilipeppermaniac

chilipeppermaniac

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Pete has some interesting tweaks and examples here, AND thinking about Robert Herndon saying he and 4 holers never meshed too well, had my thinking.
SO what say you guys about Pete's demo and Amps such as e shows here?.

 
The bright cap.
I am debating removing one leg of mine from the old 1982 JCM800 and the SC20. Just to see. I usually have gain full tilt so it is irrelevant but the odd time it has to go lower it sure thins out. Even with the Lynch Mod installed.
 
I'm currently at the nursing home with my dear mommy. After I get back home,. I will be soldering in the wiring for my 4x12 Traynor cab I am installing some Eminence Red Coat Governor speakers into. This will give me 3- 4x12 cabs and my Red Knob The Twin 2x12, and finally my 2 EV speakers to build cabs for.
 
Jethro Rocker said:
The bright cap.
I am debating removing one leg of mine from the old 1982 JCM800 and the SC20. Just to see. I usually have gain full tilt so it is irrelevant but the odd time it has to go lower it sure thins out. Even with the Lynch Mod installed.
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Common with those 80's JCM800s, and many other tube amps, is the fact that the amp's phase inverter and power tubes need a good workout for more body around the tones. The amp's master volume needs to be at least 6 or 7 on the dial. Then with the preamp volume/gain set on the cleaner side, the tones will be fatter... Unfortunately it will be fricking loud at this point. For these Marshall's to sound Marshally, the bright cap needs to be engaged. A good option is to put the bright cap on a switch. And to get some more body on the tones at lower volumes, adding a Resonance mod is useful.
 
I'm a big fan of the 0.005uf (0.0047uf) bright cap on the 1987 & 1959 bright channel volume control. I do jumper the channels when using a strat (only sometimes with a Les Paul), but usually, when using a humbucker equipped guitar (especially an SG), it's straight into the upper left (bright channel) input, volume around 6 1/2 ~ 7 1/2 & the presence kept low to keep the power amp nice & tight. As Pete said, this is where the "kerrang" is at.
I also like the 0.001uf bright cap on the 2203 & 2204. As @syscokid said, the master volume needs to be up enough to drive the PI & power tubes hard, which fattens the tone. Use the pre-amp volume control to bring in the desired bright cap balance. When used like this, all these amps are frikking loud, but they're designed to be. If you don't want this level of volume, use a lower wattage amp. Cheers
 
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Also, I managed to wire up my 4x12 with all 4 Eminence speakers connected and only the wires that will go to the jack needing attached.

I am considering getting a new jack for this Traynor cab. It is a Square Cab not angled, and will be a 16 ohm Mono cab.
Does anyone have recommended 1/4 inch jacks for this over and above the standard Switchcraft "type" one like would go in a guitar jack socket like it has now?
 
Looking at the various options I can order from Amplified parts,

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There is the basic mono open circuit, Mono Shunt Tip, Cliff Style for Marshall type, Double open circuit?

Which do you guys like?

I can think of advantages and disadvantages of each.
 
syscokid said:
Common with those 80's JCM800s, and many other tube amps, is the fact that the amp's phase inverter and power tubes need a good workout for more body around the tones. The amp's master volume needs to be at least 6 or 7 on the dial. Then with the preamp volume/gain set on the cleaner side, the tones will be fatter... Unfortunately it will be fricking loud at this point. For these Marshall's to sound Marshally, the bright cap needs to be engaged. A good option is to put the bright cap on a switch. And to get some more body on the tones at lower volumes, adding a Resonance mod is useful.
Click to expand...
Right. I won't be modding things but as I play with the old one well under that volume (50 watts) the clip seems like a reasonable compromise. Easy to set back. Preamp is never set on the cleaner side. I think the new SC20 I can leave alone as can always run it higher up. Especially given the 5 watt mode. It apparently has 2 caps and a resistor on the preamp volume control.
Will see! Can always put it back if too dark.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Pete has some interesting tweaks and examples here, AND thinking about Robert Herndon saying he and 4 holers never meshed too well, had my thinking.
SO what say you guys about Pete's demo and Amps such as e shows here?.

Click to expand...
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If you play the amp properly (7 or higher) then you don't want to take out the bright cap.
The bright cap is what supplies the crispy crunch.
But this only works if the amp is pushed hard into power amp distortion. (as God herself intended)

If you play the amp on low volume settings: then you will never get the true sound.
You will always complain about the amp being too bright.
This is a common complaint when people try to play Marshall at low volume settings.

A lot of people don't realize that the true Marshall sound comes from power amp distortion.
Therefore, the amp will be extremely loud.
If you turn the volume down, you lose the sound, and the amp never sounds the way it should.

That's when you try to take out the bright cap to compensate for the lack of power amp distortion.
But basically, you are playing the amp the wrong way.
These type of Marshalls don't sound very good when played at low volume. They were not made for low volume.
 
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